spud75

Yes, BUT is does contribute to Eurocap and ancap safety ratings under safety assist systems. 3 points out of 18 for that category. So i dont see companies not providing it going forwards, and it will soon be standard across all makes and models. As previously noted, you can turn it off, so if it inhibits or impacts your driving experience, leave it off. Lane assist in Australia can be very dangerous as 2 into 1 lane merges have dotted lines and if you dont indicate it will force the car off the road, at potentially 110kmh. You can turn it off. I leave it off on the Kodiaq RS. My Q3 S-line wont stay off. It resets to on, with every engine power on/start. Safety assist systems are provided because the driving masses do not have the skills or awareness to be able to drive F1. Drving instructors are concerned about drving skills due to reliance on theseimperfect safety systems. But if a system can save a life, then why not? If saving that life, means you have to change a setting in YOUR vehicle settings to turn it off, for you personally, then that small inconvenience is worth someone elses life. When that inconvenience of the system proves dangerous and will take more lives than it saves, then that indicates we should not be using that system. ACC will improve with smoothness, and its influence from side roads etc. Look at early days ABS and ASC. But to NOT buy a vehicle as it has ACC is a curious decision and i wont comment on that. Each to their own. Resale value, others drving the car, ease in traffic jams etc.... But then i specifically specified a manual in my Octy RS when 99.99% of vehicles are auto, so I cant comment. I would like to know from these users, just how close they are drving to the car in front of them? Do they actually know what the braking distance is of their car at speed? AEB, ACC, ESP, ABS are all required for ANCAP EUROCAP,ratings. So manufacturers will make them standard on all models globally. Australia has AEB mandatory on all models from Arpil 2025? It was some time last yeat. I have had the sideways AEB activate when slowly pulling out into a T- junction. It was annoying, but i am not going to turn it off permanently.

Because many, now a days, want to ride in a car rather than drive a car. ACC is NOT autonomous driving. It just keeps the speed and slows down to keep a safe distance from the car in front if that car is doing less than you set on cruise control. As to why you would want to code it out and not just rurn it off, confuses me. In places such as Vic, Australia where ther are speed cameras every 5km hidden behind road signs and the back of overpasses etc, you spend more time looking at the speedometer than at the road in front of you. You tend to drive watching the speedo with the occasional glance at the road to check the road, rather than the otherway around as we are taught when learning to drive. On a highway, ACC can help you focus more on the road and means you arent constantly braking and turning cruise back on again. If you dont live in a police state, then ACC may be less useful. As previously mentioned, you dont HAVE to use it. You can have it off by default. For the record, i have driven many 1000km per day trips in Australia and Europe on all manner of sealed and unsealed roads. I also prefer to drive a car.

For others reading this thread, Best way is ring dealer and ask. Quote VIN and or rego plate and they will look up what is fitted. Q3 sline F3 2.0l had 2 x diff sizes fitted at factory. Rang dealer service dept and asked them to look up what was fitted.

WTF!!!!! Front and rear in Australia would be that in AUD and our little dollar is worth about 48p. I just did rear 315mm discs on Q3 with DBA enshield and street series pads for 600AUD.

It doesnt really matter what the rim is. If you measure from the inside wall of your rim, to the top of the wheel hub, then that is the distance you need to pack the woofer up. Plus how much the driver membrane sits above the outside wall of the rim of the woofer. My measurements wont help as it depends what yours are.

You can see the cut down centre piece which comes with the woofer for VAG vehicles. I measured the size of the rubber feet carefully so they were high enough to lift the membrane off the inner part of the wheel rim but low enough that the 3rd seat row doesnt hit. Your wheel rim may be different. It shouldnt be, but it is posssible. It might be some trial and error to get the right size rubber stoppers. I looked at all sorts of things to support the woofer to get the right height. Layers of gym mat flooring cut in a circle etc.

Sub in place gap between sub and seat bar

The power wire path is described above. From fuse box distribution bar, through grommet in firewall, into footwell in the front of the car then used an electrician pull tape by pushing from the rear boot inder the carpet through to the footwell along the side of the transmission tunnel. I used similar to https://sydneytools.com.au/product/wattmaster-elmf4-4m-pull-through-fibreglass-rod-feeder-cable But mine was 15mm wide by 3mm? Thick. You tape/attach your power cable (and turn on wire if using low level speaker wires) to the tape and pull back through. Now for the subwoofer. I pulled the lower ptotective enclosure off the sub to expose the driver. I got 6 x 22mm rubber chair feet. https://www.bunnings.com.au/surface-gard-22mm-black-round-rubber-external-chair-tip-4-pack_p4050072 And made a small hole by poking a smaller phillips head screwdriver through the bottom of the foot. I then pushed the screw from the enclosure into the foot and through the hole so the thread pokes out the bottom. I then screwed the rubber foot on to the sub. So now when sub is in place, it sits on 6 x upside down rubber feet. The feet sit on the inside of the upside down spare wheel. There is a few mm between the middle of the spare wheel and the woofer driver. You then use the spplied woofer tyre bolt and plastic centre piece. NOTE !!!!! You HAVE to cut the plastuce centre attachment piece that locks into the floow of the car down so that it doesnt poke into the woofer speaker. I dont have a passive shallow cerwin vega to try to fit, but this may provde better clearance. Need to mount an amp but when when you have power back to the tyre well a mono block amp would work well. But all up, the speaker is protected inside the spare wheel. The sub is low enough that the 3rd row of sets support bar doesnt hit the top of the sub. It looks like it is supposed to be there. I will send a photo when i am back near the car. Its all snug and pumps proper 12" bass. I am still tweaking the gain but Metallica Sandman proper rattles all the mirrors. And you can now hear the treble and bass from Doppenberg.

You can only have 1 x nav system routing at once. As google maps doesnt know what skoda maps is doing, you can have 2 x different routes to different destinations at the same time. If goole maps runs out of signal for data and you are using to navigate, i suggest maps.me or organic maps. I use this often in Australia where phone signal is a nice to have in many places. They both do full offline maps and can be used with android auto and are updated regularly. You dont get traffic overlay as per waze and google though. But if you have no signal then you wont be getting traffic anyway. Ideally the nav would be similar to Audi where google info is overlayed over the built in maps.but....in skoda, it is not.

I disagree. I have 2023 columbus with android auto. I have googlemaps/maps.me on head unit and skoda mavigation on electronic dash at the same time. But you cant have both following the route directions at the same time.

Skoda sound System should work with RCD330. You use the same setting when connecting aftermarket Amp. You may need to confirm setting in VCDS that skoda sound system is selected and then once applied, disconnect battery for a couple of hours, then reconnect or you may get no sound. All the skoda sound system setting in VCDS does is drop the line out form the head unit to low level as it is expecting the amp to control the output level. I tried skoda sound system setting for my below but reverted as I didnt need the setting after all. My Adventure: Jan 2013 build Mk2 Octavia RS. With RNS510 columbus. I swapped to a RCD330 with rear USB option. It is actually a USB wired to the USB +/- pins in the back of the unit. I had a USB wireless android/carplay dongle and plugged that in. Easy swap in/out of RNS510. I located the wireless dongle under the glove box sitting on top of the foam liner that surround the heater outlet. This gives me easy access to the dongle if I need to. I then went back and got the fakra FM double adapter https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0C3GD7N56?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title It really does improve FM radio. Now the general sound quality is nothing like the RNS510. Lets be honest. So I grabbed a https://www.pioneer.com.au/shop/car/amplifiers/gm-d-amplifiers/gm-d1004/ for AUD150. Look around and there are a few places to get one. This amp is able to handle the line out voltage range of the RCD330 (see start of post). You dont need to run through a low level converter or set skoda sound system setting in VCDS. You can, but you dont need to. The Pioneer comes with ISO connector cables ready to go for power and speakers. It is also low power draw and low enough to run from the head unit power rather than a dedicated power from the battery. (Before everyone freaks out, this is only 4 x 45W RMS so the max current is low enough. I did get some thicker gauge wire to support 15A power and ground for the below connectors as they only seemed to be 8-10A) If you want to go all out with a massive AMP and sub etc, then dont get a RCD330. My next purchase was for Car ISO Stereo Radio Wiring Harness Adapter for Golf ISO Cable Connector Plug and Adapter Quadlock Cable Iso for BMW VW Mercedes Audi Vauxhall Ford Radio Navi Au This allows plugging it all together. The quadlock to ISO adapters allow plug and play of everything to the factory harness to the RCD330 and tot eh AMP. The back of the head unit is like an inverted L when looking from the side, so there is a nice big gap behind the RCD330 head unit which.....is perfect to fit the amp. I did not remove the glovebox for any of this. Connect it all up, push the whole lot back in the dash. I then turned off treble monitoring in VCDS. This setup sounds really good. Not original, but better in some ways. I didnt have to route to the battery through the firewall, I didnt have to splice or cut wires, I didnt have to remove the glovebox, I now have a headunit that is similar to the RNS510, but has wireless android auto and carplay. The downside: I dont have aircon control on the head unit display, the aftrmarket RVC wont display camera and parking sensor at the same time. Oh and I needed to disconnect/remove the factory bluetooth unit from under the drivers seat.

I refused the remap so mine is still on original emissions cheating. At 5L/100km i am doing my bit for the environment anyway. I still havent got around to doing the performance remap. I would love it, but i can spin the wheels in 2nd gear in the wet with traction control on, and it chirps changing up to third, so do i NEED the extra???? Probably not, I def want it though...

My vRS seats on my 2013 (jan) octy are some of the best seats I have been in. They sit really snug and hold you in place. I have factory leather and no alcantara inserts. I have had the get the drivers side outside bolster re-leathered as it wore through. vRS seats for later generation cant adjust headrest height, so that can be a factor.

I know this is a late reply. My concern here is there are receipts for DPF delete, but the DPF is still on the car. The DPF regens based on back pressure from soot build up. If you have no DPF, then you shouldnt be building up soot, so regen shoudnt trigger. I would suggest the DPF is still present, and working as designed. The fans run after engine switch off, to cool the system as it will be hot from a regen or part way through a regen. You can do a regen, and keep driving an the system will cool down itself, When you turn off the car, the fans wont be running. Has the EGR been blanked as well, or were the receipts just for optional but work wasnt done? If you really want to push power output, then go the egf and dpf removal route. You can get plenty of power/torque from the CR170 motor with just a remap and leave everything else in place.

Sorry for the thread bump.... I looked hard at a tiguan R-line allspace tsi. I wanted the 7 seats. Tiggy is 10%down on power to kodiaq RS tsi. I have 2020 Q3 s-line and a 2013 octavia rs diesel. Ultimately, sitting in the kodiaq felt nicer than sitting in the tiguan. the tiggy was premium but bland and lifeless. the kodaiq feels nicer from a driver persective and the steering wheel controls have scroll wheels. For the sound, my 2023 could only have columbus so i fitted a 12" cerwin-vega spare tyre sub. Set the base to 0 on the head unit and lifted the gain on the sub to fill the void for the lower frequencies. Super happy now. For comparison the Q3 has bose system with sparetyre bosesub. i like the kodiaq setup more. The comparison here is skewed from the OP as all my cars are 2.0L. that changes driving experience. I drove a 1.5L tsi in the Karoq, and i dont think i could live with it we had the option of the 1.5L tsi in the Q3, and i speciifcally optioned the 2.0L tsi. It all depends on requirements though and the driver themselves.