Baverhanne

Hmm, I'm 178cm, around 90kg and I never truly got comfortable in the Superb L&K seats. Always had to adjust and use the "massage" function to make it somewhat okey, drove my car for 87"miles over three years and always had a soar back after longer journeys (1hour +). That differs from all the other divers here that finds the seats really comfortable. What I want to say - ask for a loaner over a day or two and take it for a longer trip, no one's body looks like the others...

Had the l&k leather seats with massage function. Drove the car for about 140000km but never really got comfortable in the seat. It did feel comfortable but I always got a soar back after a few hours in that car. Now with another brand of car I can drive a whole day without any pain. My colleague that had the exact same spec as me never had any problem with the Superb a seats. Must be down to the bodyshape of the driver

When my superb -17 was delivered the heating was reset everytime the car was locked, didn't have a memory at all as I recall it. But - later I added the memory function with OBD-11. The function exists but on at least my car it wasn't active from factory.

In Sweden it's standard at least from "Style" and upwards. In the UK site they mention it for SE Technology

I have a theory about the flashing... Modern headlights that instead of turning the high beam of, redirects it to where it's best suited keeps a high light output. Some people can't help them self from being drawn to look straight into the light of oncoming traffic, I myself sometimes do that when I'm a little bit tired. Old style headlights doesn't blind when on half beam and you look at them from a distance, new smart headlights do blind when looking straight into them even if they are adjusted correctly. This is just a theory based on my own experience of oncoming traffic during the "dark months". I also sometimes get flashed when my car uses the adaptive function, they are adjusted correctly and the contrast between where the headlight focuses and the "darkened" area is so pronounced that you by eyesight can see that it doesn't "hit" oncoming traffic in the eyes - but looking straight into them surely will blind for a few seconds.

Driven both the 7speed dry and 6/7speed wet. My experience is that the drycluth is smoother than the wet. One example of that jerkiness (on my former car) - When closing in to a three way crossing, let the foot of the accelerator, speed drops to 15-20km/h, a lot of traffic but you have the fortune to coming up to the crossing right when there's a small gap, pressing down the accelerator to propell your self into that gap (at least in your imagination) - but, nothing happens!? You're pushing down the pedal a little bit during this moment that seems to last forever (maybe 0,5sek or tops 1sek) and all of a sudden the car shifts into gear, but now it's to late to get into that gap, you have pressed the pedal so far down that an aggressive wheelspin that a teenager would have been proud of (snow) occurs. Before your foot lands on the brakepdal you've already started cold sweating and seen your entire life pass by in your mind... A little bit exaggerated but something like that. Most of the time it works like a charm and there's only a few occasions that this actually is a problem and those can easily be avoided.

The 4x4 has 150mm ground clearance. Sportline is a little bit lower, DCC equipped car might also differ.

I do think that there's been an update of the gearbox software, also - I've driven the T8 hybrid, that one has that delay when doing a kickdown, B4 hasn't. BMW 3 series is a dream car of mine and I totally agree - it's in a different leauge! To bad they don't offer the CC or allroad setup - i really need the extra ground clearance i have in the CC, but on a BMW that would surely not benefit driving pleasure.

@TimothyT - Don't want to start a "brand fight" here, but have you actually driven the V60 with 8speed gearbox? I went from a 190TDI 4X4 DSG6 to a V60CC B4 AUT AWD. In my opinion the Volvo gearbox is far superior to the DSG in terms of choosing the right gear, no hesitation at all from the gearbox no matter drivingconditions, going full throttle it shifts almost seamlessly. In manual it shifts almost as quick as the DSG. I've driven the Kodiaq 200tdi 4x4 DSG7, that gearbox is better than the DSG6 I had but still it feels "jerky" in some conditions. Also - this is very subjective and my own humble opinion, if you feel the Superb has good enough chassis, steering response and agility even the V60CC will be better in all those respects. Steering is more direct, not quicker compared to the progressive I had in the Superb but more like it always goes where you point it without hesitation, chassis and wheel control also is far superior to the stock DCC Superb, it doesn't slam or bounce sideways on bad roads at high speeds, wheels are always in contact with the road (superb not so much) and it doesn't roll as the superb did. I really liked the superb but I'll never get another stock Superb 3.

In sweden at least you have the possibility to buy mixed screen wash in 4litre bottles that works to roughly -17 Celsius. Or buy the same as a concentrate and mix to your liking (temp). Never had the screen washer freezed up, not even in -25 celsius two days ago. But on the other hand I never use something for higher temps than -17..

I have used the superb for a bed mattress measuring 200x90cm, had to slide the front seats a little bit towards the front of the car but not that much. If it matters i had the "double" floor in its lower position.

If you find a flat spot (must be totally flat for at least 12 meters) against a wall. Drive up against the wall as close as you can. Use some tape and put a mark where the upper edge of the beam, one mark for each side. Now back away from the wall and stop when the front of the car is 5 meters away from the wall. Now adjust the headlight so that the upper edge of the beam hits the wall 6cm below your first marks. This will give you a quite good adjustment of the dipped beam. Another way is to use a tape meter or laser meter. Find the center of you headlight and take a measure from ground to the center. An estimate is that it should be at around 500mm. Find a flat spot like above. Use the equation below to calculate on what height the beam should hit the wall. Put some tape on the correct height and adjust the dipped beam so that it touches the tape. 5000 = distance between front and wall. 500 = center of headlight (mm) differs from car to car, must be measured. 1.2 =desired drop per meter in percent. In Sweden a minimum drop of 1% is required, most manufacturer has their own drop somewhere between 1.2% and 1.5%, maybe even higher. Equation 500−((5000×1,2)÷100)=440mm With these values the dipped beams upper edge should hit the wall at 440mm from a distance of 5 meters. The longer distance used the more accurate the adjustment will be, 10 meters is recommended. At 10 meters with a drop of 1.2% the formula is: 500−((10000×1,2)÷100)=380mm At 10 meters with a drop of 1% 500−((10000×1)÷100)=400mm There's only a few centimeters in difference at these distances but a small difference at 5 meters will make a huge difference in 70meters. It's better to start a little bit slow and carefully raise the beam. If not done properly oncoming traffic will be temporarily blinded.

Or, is it webasto preheating you're thinking about? If so - i believe it's an accessory in most countrys (in Sweden more or less standard on diesels).

Could the wind deflectors for front windows maybe help? In my former car i experienced that the noise came from the A-Beams, but it might just as wall has been from the side windows. http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/SUPERB-III/Superb-III-FRONT-wind-rain-deflector-set

Doesn't all Kodiaqs in Sweden have a maximum towing weight between 2000 and 2500kg depending on 7 or 5 seats? RS had lower towing weight at 1750kg i think.