Alan_P

I just noticed pim (link above) are also doing 10% off with code HEAT10. £86 is pretty good from a reputable supplier.

Just replaced cylinder 4 with a £13 Bosch 0250403009 direct from Amazon. It was a Bosch 0250403007 that came out. Looks like Beru (another OEM) go for around £100 on ebay for the pressure sensing one. Bosch seem to be around £135. I find ECP expensive these days, even with an essential code/deal. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/336472172965 Bosch seem to be around £135, but I see a full mixed set for £140: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286741811628 I soaked it in wd40 for a few days then got the engine to temp at removal. I might just have been lucky, but once it cracked, it was finger tight.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00WN3CF2I https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00N10BPDW Spring deal being claimed fast. £75.86 all in for Bosch pads and coated disks is not bad.

I noticed a similar loss about 5 years ago with my 2.0tdi 150ps. Every 5k miles it dropped max to min. I removed the silica gel pouch from the header tank (partially split) and have had no drops since. I did a full flush with G12evo last year (partial flush previously) and still no issues.

I've been happy with Pagid discs and pads over the years on various cars. The rears seem great over the past 4 years on my mk3 2.0 150hp Superb although I think they are quite pricey for what they are. I tried Bosch at the front and around 2 years ago and they have been great. Less break dust than OEM and the (coated) discs still look great. Bite seems good and no squealing. Cheapest (reputable) place I could fine at the time was Amazon, but you might be able to do better. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-986-479-932-Brake/dp/B00N10BPDW https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-BP1505-Certified-Copper-Free-Accessories/dp/B00WN3CF2I Make sure it's from Amazon direct and not a third party seller if you do go with them.

It's the wheel lining that needs to dropped down. You could take the headlight unit out, but that's a lot more work and not necessary. Check the post for full details. Dealers can supply the cap, same as the one just beside it.

It's one of the first things I changed when I got the car. I hated how yellow the DRL bulbs were, even compared to the factory H7 bulbs. This excellent post from @SJCSE details the procedure of cutting the unit and once done, the cap fits perfectly: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/379864-se-and-se-business-drls/#findComment-4456863 I've since gone through various PW24W LED options, but the only ones I found close to the Osram Cool Blue Intense H7 I use (just road legal) kept giving errors. I ended up going with halogen bulbs that are very close and obviously give no errors. It's the blue tint version listed as "white": https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002462773625.html Working perfectly for 7 years. EDIT: I remember having to shave a tiny amount off the leg of some bulbs, just to get a perfect fit.

Around 4 years ago I removed the silica bag from the expansion tank on my 2017 2.0TDI 150ps. I was planning to do a partial flush using G12evo, but I spotted a bulletin stating that EA288 must use G13 (see attached). It does say US only and there is separate conflicting info on what gen of EA288 it applies to (not just CVCA/CRUA). Does anyone know if it applies to the J623-CRLB variation? It seems that G13 is VIN order only.

@Itsrelfy do you use auto hold? If so, try disabling it and go for a test drive.

https://www.google.com/search?q=vcds https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/VCDS.php I've changed from "Normal" to "Early" for the IDE05055-Hydraulic brake assistant. No obvious or immediate change, but will give it a proper test tomorrow.

Will give it a try 👍

Do you know if this works for a manual or is it just for DSG cars?

My 2017 2.0 150 takes the 5Q0127177 (ufi 26.038.00) (mann PU 8028).

I had a constant, slow drop in coolant until I removed silica bag from my (single wall) expansion tank. I removed it to stop a future matrix blockage so it was more of a happy side effect. I thought I burst the bag slightly when removing/forcing it out, but maybe it was already leaking.

@xman Load transfer is yet another variable which actually supports having as balanced a set of tyres possible. It’s also not the only thing affecting load, grip or the distribution of traction. If you’re suggesting it’s the only factor or somehow mitigates the use of mixed capability tyres, we will have to agree to differ, again. You posted some info from Michelin so hopefully you accept their findings and not only when it suits. Have a look at the “Can you mix winter and summer tyres” and “Fitting different tyres on the same axle” sections: https://www.michelin.co.uk/auto/advice/choose-tyres/mixing-tyres Here is a little safety video from them with a demo covering traction and inertia (some other variables): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaXXrKFJctU Anyway, I’m complicit in continuing to hijack this thread and this is my last post. In some areas it has degraded into providing anecdotal, singular driving experiences as evidence. Written statements of bizarre “testing” and brake checking people for tailgating is certainly evidence, but not of the type that was intended, I think.