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Posts posted by negaultra7
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Hi aki78 could you pm me update details. Thanks
Neil -
On 17/07/2019 at 00:57, Octaviakjo said:
Hi,
Just wondering if anyone has had the same issue as myself when trying to start the car. Usually when the key is first turned the glow plug light will come up and then go off after a few seconds, the engine will then start upon the next turn. Randomly my mk3 vrs diesel has been showing all lights except the glow plug one on first turn of the key, then an error message comes up saying, Error: stabilisation control (ESC), and fails to start. I have to keep trying 4 or 5 times sometimes more until the glow plug light comes on as usual with no error message. Any info would be appreciated.
Did you get this issue sorted I’m having the same problem on my 14 VRS Diesel
thanks
Neil
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On 06/12/2018 at 11:39, BeeJay56 said:
Hi, I have a 63 plate Octavia TDI estate. Over the last few months I have been getting a 'stabilisation control error' appear on the dash board, which means I'm unable to start my car. Turning the ignition key on and off multiple times, adds other errors, such as 'tyre pressure sensor error', but eventually the 'stabilisation control error' goes off and I can then start and drive my car. This doesn't happen all the time, but especially in cold weather. I've had the battery and the ignition relays and sensors changed, but this has not fixed the error (the Skoda garage mechanics are baffled). Any ideas?
Did you get this issue sorted what was the problem?
Thanks
Neil
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Hi I’ve finally got around to changing the battery is there anyone on here from the midlands that has the VCDS software?
or does anyone have a link I can buy it from?
Thanks
Neil
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23 hours ago, brettikivi said:
or carista, Torque Pro, VCP, CarPort - it depends what you want from it, what it should run on (phone vs. laptop) and how much you want to spend.
OBDEleven requires you buy their Dongle. Torque will mostly work with any Bluetooth dongle, but might not allow you to make coding changes (can't say I've really tried). VCP is even more complex than VCDS, and CarPort is in the middle, but requires a Laptop.
What do you want to do and how much are you prepared to spend to do it?
- Bret
Hi Bret,
purely just to read any codes that might ping up on my car and read any codes that may of been on it,
around £50 if that’s possible
cheers
Neil
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Hi everyone, just a quick question:
Is it only VCDS diagnostics that can be used on my Octy vrs 2.0tdi or is there a cheaper option that will read any faults I need to find?
thanks
Neil
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11 hours ago, PetrolDave said:
Definitely, that battery is FUBAR.
I've bought Varta batteries online and been very happy with them.
Hi when I change the battery will I need to get it recoded by entering the BEM Code via the VCDS or will it reset itself?cheers for your knowledge
Neil
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The dashcam is hardwired in so turns off when the ignition goes off,
I work for Toyota Material Handling and a workmate checked my battery today it was reading 12.2v then when we left the ignition on for two or three minutes and started the car it dropped to 8v and took a while to start,
I believe it is time for a new battery?
any ideas on the best one to go for at a reasonable price?
Thanks for all your advise I do appreciate it 👍🏻
Neil -
Wow yes but I’ve had it in the car for 2 1/2 years
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Thanks what could not be turning off?
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Hi all just a update, I’ve not been able to get the codes read yet due to the isolation rules in force at the moment,
My car has been starting and running fine all week whilst I’ve been going to and from work, and the ambient temperature is working fine,
then after leaving it standing all weekend got in the car this morning and the damm stabilisation error came up again so turned off the ignition and turned again no error codes and the car turned over again and then the error came up again and stopped the car turning over this happened one more time then on the third turn the car started up fine,
no other error codes came up might I add (tyre sensor)
when I arrived at work 7 miles away stopped the car and then started it no problem,
got in the car after work and again no problem,
Now to me I’m thinking a dodgy battery, the connections are fine, is it correct if the battery is on its way out it can throw up error codes ie stabilisation/ tyre pressure?
im thinking the alternator is charging ok as the car starts fine after a run and all lights and heaters are working ok,
there seems to be a pattern where it’s throwing up errors on a Monday when it’s been stood all weekend and it’s not feeling it like the rest of us,
any advise/ideas more than welcome
Neil
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Hi there did you get this issue sorted I’m having the same problem with my 2014 Octavia vrs, very frustrating
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No they are not OEM there from Parkers,
id of thought they would be more than suitable,
my issue is more with the possible link with the ambient temperature sensor?
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Hi everyone around Christmas time just gone one morning I got in my 2014 Skoda Octavia vrs turned the key only to get a message saying Stabilisation error then followed by tyre pressure sensor fault,
I tried to start the car but nothing at all no cranking or noise, I turned the ignition off and on a couple of times then the Stabilisation error disappeared but the tyre pressure warning light stayed on, turned the car over and it started fine,
Pulled the car off the drive and drove around 500 yards and the tyre pressure warning light went out and all was fine car drove as it should,
Got a mate to call around with his scan tool from work, he plugged it in and it showed passenger side front speed sensor faulty, now to be safe I got him to change both the driver and passenger side front speed sensors,
He did so and the car has been perfect since then until this morning got in the car and the Stabilisation error light came on followed by the tyre pressure sensor error, I followed the same procedure as before and the car started fine and this time the tyre pressure sensor light went out after around 50 yards, the car drove fine to work and I turned the car off on arrival and started it a few times and all was well,
I went out to my car at tea break got in and the car started fine but I noticed the ambient temperature readout was still saying -0.5 degrees which is what it was saying when I got out the car on arrival to work, it was really +6 degrees outside at the time I stopped and started the car a few time to see if it would settle itself down but it didn't,
So went back to work and left the car till last tea break at 2pm to see if the ambient temperature was now reading correctly and it was now it was reading +12.5 degrees again the car started fine and on leaving work it started fine and no messages,
im just wondering if its a faulty ambient temperature sensor that is sending the car into stabilisation error?
By the way the battery is fine and the terminals are all connected nice and tight,
Any help and advise would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Neil
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6 hours ago, Ash007ks said:
From looking online there are a couple of guides at doing it. Hardest way but the cleanest is to drop the bumper off, this will allow you to keep the surround intact.
Ive also seen a few people chop the surround in 5 or 6 places and then just pop it off. Im personally going to give plastic interior trim removal tools a try as they are soft enough not to damage the bumper.
This is the link i used: https://www.dropbox.com/s/csix1uhhbrgqhhj/Octavia VRS Black Pack Grill Surround1.pdf?dl=0
And these tools: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Blue-Spot-07925-Car-Trim-Removal-11-Pieces-Set/3031195714?iid=253989091555
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6 hours ago, Marshy33 said:
What tool did you use to remove the old one? I'm worried about damaging the car.
@ash007k I read that too, maybe @negaultra7 could confirm as I literally only just bought mine.
I used these tools: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Blue-Spot-07925-Car-Trim-Removal-11-Pieces-Set/3031195714?iid=253989091555
And all i did was give them my registration to check it fitted before i ordered
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Yes replacement was done without removing the bumper, just be brave as soon as the first section breaks you just chase it around being careful not to break any of the black retaining clips,
I followed this link below that someone on the forum (who's name i forget) had posted.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/csix1uhhbrgqhhj/Octavia VRS Black Pack Grill Surround1.pdf?dl=0
Cheers
Neil
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1 hour ago, Marshy33 said:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153210963923
I'm guessing it's this one.
Thats the one
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So today i swapped the chrome grill surround for a Black one and it looks so much better,
Took around 30 minutes to do
The surround cost me £35 from eBay
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Well at long last got my EML issue sorted, it wasnt the pump as first suspected but some dodgy wiring repair that was supposedly fixed under warranty at Skoda Autosales Burntwood where i got the car from, thankfully one of my mates who knows what he is doing fixed it for me at a cost of £12 for the part and £20 beer money 😉
So here is the part on the car
the outer yellow wire just fell out and part of the pin had broke off in the connector, you would of thought they would of fitted i new 3 pin connector?
Anyway new part was ordered and fitted in 20 minutes so all good now
Cheers Neil
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Today i swapped the chrome grill surround for a Black one and it looks so much better, took around 30 minutes to do
New Gel+ Licence plates on order
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44 minutes ago, peter3197 said:
If you google it the golf version comes up, looks like a little electric pump which would figure as the other errors refer to electrical connection.
Thanks do you have a link?
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If I remember right they said there was two or three pumps on the car?
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The car went back to Skoda under warranty around a year ago as eml had come on and that time there was a short, showing low voltage in a wire connecting to the air con/heater pump
this was fixed and no problem since up until last week
Blower fan stops and starts
in Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)
Posted
Hi there did you get this problem sorted? I’ve got a similar issue on my 14 plate Octavia vrs driving along the other day and all of a sudden the fans stop working so turned off and on again and they started again,
then it’s just happened again tonight accompanied with a deep whiring kind of noise coming from somewhere near the bulkhead in the engine, when it works the ac is still ok and the fans alter there speed,
im thinking it is the heater blower motor or could it be something else?
any quick way of identifying this issue would be greatly appreciated
thanks
Neil