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juanse_2691

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Posts posted by juanse_2691

  1. Hello people, I'm just about to order some parts to service my 2007 Mk1 16v Fabia hatchback.

     

    I used to know which pads were which but 5 years had passed since the last time I replaced them, so my question is, FS III carriers mean I have 256 mm discs?

     

    Thank you all in advance.

  2. The pre-cat only helps by accelerating the warm-up phase.

     

    Theoretically, with a properly warmed-up engine, there should be no difference but I don't know the nuances of the whole operation, whether there are differences in lambda probes part numbers, ECU values, etc. 

     

    I give my car a good ol' Italian tune-up before going in (just to make sure its cats are up to temp) and it passes with flying colours. 

    • Haha 1
  3. Wonder how many millions of engines have already blown up due to a single drip of E10 touching the virginal, pure, undisturbed fuel tanks and engines many claim to have. Judging by the reaction and sense of urgency of many round here, must've been zillions!

  4. Seems like a Combi would suit me quite nicely. My hatchback has moved, among other things:

     

    -Those things in the picture, plus another 50 kg bag of onions in the rear seats.

     

    -A complete elliptical trainer, unfolded.

     

    -An industrial deep fryer. Three times.

     

    -A table for four, plus seats.

     

    -A stovetop oven, a queen mattress plus bed sheets, and luggage for two, all at the same time.

     

     

    Only thing keeping me from getting a Combi is they have a bad rep thanks to funeral homes, power users of the things round here, sadly. Maybe a Mk2 would be nicer as it doesn't look as hearse-ish as the Mk1.

    IMG_20210919_160702.jpg

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  5. Curiosity got the best of me, so I had to go and check out the cubby to see whether it was an original part or not. Turns out it is original and quite more practical than having to 3D print custom stuff.

     

    There's the part number if you're interested.

     

    Also it has its own little rubber mat so coins/objects don't make so much noise, and makes it easier to clean.

    IMG_20220108_221124.jpg

    IMG_20220108_220555.jpg

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  6. 3 hours ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

     

    That's a non-standard cubby by the looks of it, Stewart. :)

    I wouldn't be so sure. It looks original, fits nicely in the center console, has the exact same colour as the rest of the trim and has the corresponding tabs, pegs and everything

    • Like 1
  7. 11 hours ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

    I did my single-DIN stereo installation differently from you, but aimed for what I presume is a similar outcome.

     

    This is my completed works...

     

    20211227_150214.thumb.jpg.a7f54e25e18a1325c8ae7883f20191a7.jpg

     

    I kept the OEM cubby at the bottom (drilled a hole in mine to run an iPod cable through) and used a single-DIN fascia purchased from Halfords, they still sell them IIRC.

     

    Hope that helps. :)

    Interesting. Similar to mine, but in my case there was no need for additional fascias, apparently.

    IMG_20211227_230916.jpg

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  8. 4 hours ago, nta16 said:

    The more gauges and the more information you get the more you have to worry about.

     

    In 1999, last century, indeed last millennium, I got a new Japanese car, being used to old British cars with often fully mechanical gauges I said to someone how good the car was as once it reached temperature the needle remained rock steady unlike the British cars where the needle (correctly) moved up and down with the efficiencies and inefficiencies of the 'water' cooling system.  Then it was explained to me this was a 'comfort' gauge and not a true range like I was used to.  Ken will have explain as I'll just mess it up but the idea is don't look for exact figures but just what is normally showing for your car running in good condition, or be careful about what you are comparing with what.

     

    True. My Fabia coolant gets to 100°C (per VCDS measuring) before the radiator fan gets going at full speed. The cluster gauge could indeed show those variations in temperature, but it doesn't. It stays glued to the 90°C mark even if actual coolant temperature is 10°C higher (and the gauge is scaled in 10°C steps, mind you).

  9. 6 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

     

    It's the torque, torque is cheap when you have a 2.0.

    It's night and day compared to the 1.4 and it pulls cleanly to 125 mph, the 1.4 couldn't get close.

    True. Truckloads of torque. Having owned both variants, the 2.0 is way more pleasant to drive daily than the 1.4 16v. My BBZ Fabia only moves decently because the gearbox ratios are extremely short, anything over 60 mph will have the engine running at 4500 RPM+ and it tops at 118 mph at 6300ish RPM. That gets old quickly in motorways. The 2.0 used much longer ratios, which ultimately even saves fuel and makes trips bearable. The 2.0 pulls from any gear, at any point in the rev range. The 1.4 16v is gutless under 3000 rpm but it gets to redline in the blink of an eye. 

     

    It's good to let the BBZ breathe every once in a while but I still miss that 2.0 dearly. 

     

     

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  10. Nothing catastrophic happens by just filling up with E10. Yes, in this part of the third world where I live there are 70 year old trucks still working all day every day with plain old carburettors, old fuel lines, neglected maintenance (only the bare minimum to keep them running) and guess what... They suffer more brake failures than they do engine fires or fuel leaks of any sort. And we have no choice, E10 is in every grade of fuel we use. In fact it is touted as beneficial because it "oxygenates" petrol and boosts its octane rating. If the base fuel is 95 RON it is theorised (by gov agencies anyway) that the 10% ethanol content elevates its rating to 97. 

     

    In short, the best way to get rid of E10 is using it... no, really. That's the antidote. Burn it as quick as you possibly can, use your car. Don't leave it sitting there in the tank for months. That's it. That's what we do. 

     

    Yetis were sold here too, nothing goes particularly wrong except the usual valvetrain problems which come as a result of using low octane fuels more than anything. 

     

    This whole E10 scare is a first world problem if I've ever seen one. If you're a car collector with dozens or even hundreds of very valuable, rare cars that you don't have the time to move around your private racetrack or around the estate, this is actually a non-issue because you can afford the premium stuff anyway. If you're a normal citizen with normal cars using them for normal chores going to and from your normal job and doing the routine maintenance your normal car demands... relax. Just use the normal stuff.

     

    "bUt gUvMinT wAnTs Me CaR oFf ThE rOaD tHaTs wHy TheY'Re sHoViNg E10 DoWn oUr ThRoAts"...

     

    Set up your very own petrol refinery then.

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  11. Never seen one of these catching fire to be honest.

     

    And there are many like it where I live. There is absolutely no way of getting anything other than E10 where I live. I remember they recommended renewing/replacing petrol filters and cleaning tanks just in case, and carburettors do suffer a little, though in no greater frequency than before the introduction of E10.

     

    Ethanol does not like sitting for long periods of time. I owned a 1961 VW Beetle which I had parked for two years. When cleaning the carburettor before starting it again, there was a dark green mossy goo inside the fuel bowl. It was quite hard to get rid of, but otherwise the car worked fine and started at the first try. Ethanol is known to cause issues if left sitting for long periods of time, but that's the only issue I can think of. 

    IMG_20210822_113311.jpg

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  12. 12 hours ago, Wino said:

    I'm going to quote it directly just in case the link is causing trouble, then I'm out.  Re-reading that, below, I wonder if the first instance of the word 'following' is the problem, I'm going to say that is a mistake, and the info makes better sense without that word. [I have struck through the spurious word in the quote below]

     

    E10 petrol is cleared for use in all following ŠKODA vehicles with petrol engines with the following exception:

    • Felicia 1.3 litre OHV (40kw and 50kW) engines in the production years 1994 to 2001
    • Other ŠKODA models using the 1.3 litre OHV engines produced prior to 1994.

    NOTE: If your vehicle is listed above you should continue to use E5 petrol. If you are unsure please contact your local Škoda dealer.

     

    Back before they introduced E10 where I live (20 years ago) I remember a fleet of Felicias going around for testing purposes. It's been two decades since then and I see plenty of Favorits and Felicias still chugging along quite happily. 

     

    The panic you guys have about E10 is unjustified. 

    • Like 1
  13. Checked voltage across the alt casing as suggested and found no relevant difference in voltages, or resistance for that matter. It always has been the case that the car runs between 13.8 to 14.4 volts. Took the car to a garage so they could make some tests, and the charging system did well. The battery, while not completely hopeless, is weaker than it should, and they advised me to get a new one.

     

    Temperatures year round are in the high 30°C, sometimes even 40. I wonder if heat could degrade a battery so much that it would make it go weak after a year and a half, as my battery box has no insulation whatsoever and I don't know where to get the factory blanket. The radiator fan blows hot air directly to it.

     

    Since my daily usage consists of many starts scattered throughout the day, continuous use of air conditioning and headlights, lots of idling and short trips, is it possible that the battery has no chances of recovering from every start, and therefore degrades faster than say, a car that's only used to go to and from work twice a day? Because if that's the case, I suppose an AGM battery meant for modern Start-Stop cars would fare better, and despite costing easily double or triple the price of a conventional lead acid one, it would last longer I reckon, offsetting the cost of initial purchase. 

     

    The weird thing is the occasional blinking of the battery light, of which I find no mention on the owners manual. 

  14. Hello everyone. 

     

    Recently, my 2007 Mk1 Fabia 1.4 16v has developed an habit of showing a blinking battery light after the first cold start of the day. No beeping or any other symptoms whatsoever. The light works as intended otherwise, and electrical accessories work fine. The light goes off on its own after a couple of minutes.

     

    Alternator, regulator, earth and positive leads have been recently serviced. Battery is 18 months old at most, though I suspect it's going weak already.

     

    Don't mind the engine revving in cold in the video. Only did it to test if the light flickering was affected by engine speed, which it apparently is.

     

    The voltmeter video (sits at 14 ish volts) is the reading at the battery posts with the engine running at idle and air conditioning on.

     

    As always, I appreciate your input.

     

    Thanks.

     

  15. The "easy" or "cheaper" thing would've been buying a quicker car, but the way you describe it you don't live in a city but in a rally stage. Otherwise not even a car with three times the power will make a difference. 

     

    I have to make 100 mile journeys regularly for work and study, and I've been in 30 bhp cars as well as 200 bhp cars, and I hadn't shaved any meaningful amount of time getting to my destination because of power, not even 10 minutes, much less half an hour.

     

    If your city is all that terrible you should buy a motorcycle to zip through traffic, or move closer to where you work.

     

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