juanse_2691
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Posts posted by juanse_2691
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Same here, riveted 2007.
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For what I read sounds like you need to locate the pre-load spring in the correct slot. Happened to me and thought it was a stretched cable, inner handle was loose and outside handle rarely worked, until I read the workshop manual about the little spring thingy. Putting it in the right place solved my problem.
The bad news is, you'll need to re-do everything because relocating the spring is easier with the door lock out. It is possible to do it with the lock installed but you need the right tool and you risk damaging your window since the spring holds quite a bit of tension and snaps easily.
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ESP and EDL are concomitant. It is my understanding that ASR-only equipped cars don't have EDL/EDS. ASR works by limiting engine response until wheels don't spin, while EDS uses the brakes selectively per wheel in conjunction with (or thanks to) ESP without necessarily cutting engine power.
I learned that the hard way, going up an inclined gravel road, a wheel caught a slippery patch, silly me expecting a non existent EDL to do something and promptly proceeded to leave a trail of burned rubber (especially hurtful on a fresh set of tyres). No "diff lock" to be found. ASR only made things worse because it cut too much, making me back up. Had to wiggle my way up the hill in 1st gear, no ASR and gravel flying everywhere.
And then locals told me "you should've left your car at the base of the hill, only 4x4 trucks make it up here". Sould've warned me down there then.
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I don't remember if the values were higher or lower, really, but still they left my mechanic puzzled.
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Great, please let us know the results when you can!
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5 hours ago, Wino said:
Lower or higher pressure than expected? I guess if the breather system is mostly or completely blocked like the one photographed, although crankcase pressure will be higher, inlet manifold pressure might be lower than expected if the breather isn't returning vapour via the hose under the throttle body? (Won't apply to earlier versions of these engines where the output of the PCV went up to the airbox).
Inlet pressure was ever so slightly lower than reference values. It was still within range, but in the lower side of the scale, enough to investigate a possible vacuum leak. Crankcase vacuum was excellent, if undoing the oil cap and having it sucked back into place is any indication, so no blowby apparently.
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Interesting, will have my mechanic do it as soon as the shop opens. Last time I had the car in service he thought the vacuum values were abnormal. I have no suitable tools for the job, but it's something I always wanted to check.
I'm still out of luck about the MAP sensor, hopefully I'll see to sort that out when the shop opens. -
Plenty of things get worn. My cable ends are on their last legs, slider is pretty much nonexistent. The bad thing is that most upgrades (soild bushes, cable ends, brass sliders, short throw shifters, etc) are for 02Q, 02J and 02M transmissions, 6 speed transmissions and little else. Not much for my little close ratio HZK 02T gearbox.
Make sure to keep everything clean and well greased. Made a world of difference, though I'll have to address the worn stuff sooner than later.
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Here's the engine properly warmed up, at idle with the air-conditioning running. Hopefully you'll be able to see how it dips, stumbles and then surges, so much that some of the vibration is transferred to the camera.
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Thank you as always.
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Went to have another look around the engine. Checked and disconnected EVAP valve, EGR, ran the engine like that and symptoms didn't change, poked around the lines going to the throttle body, all seem healthy. Cleaned and reconnected everything, no change. Idle with no load whatsoever feels decent enough, turn the A/C on and hell breaks loose.
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Excellent, Wino. Vacuum leaks, split pipes, actuators, EGR and sensors were ruled out while the car was in the shop. Readiness values were fine, tests were OK. Only thing out of place was the oil cap seal, the one that goes between the oil filler neck and the valve cover, it was changed. To be clear, the fault developed before the belt service.
Is it possible to test the MAP sensor itself and the connection from the wiring loom with a voltmeter, and what values should I be looking for, just in case? I'm not too electrically minded, if that's not apparent already. There is a possibility that the sensor itself is at fault, being a cheap Chinese unit. In my defense, apparently there are no better options available, and the other sensor that worked was one of those, so I ordered it. Getting a proper one from abroad leaves me stuck for approximately two months and that's while the world isn't on lockdown.
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Hello all,
Recently, my BBZ engined Fabia developed hesitation, loss of power and unstable idle. While servicing (belts and tensioners change) a quick VCDS scan revealed something in the vicinity of a 17961 fault code, MAP intermittent signal or so. Changing the MAP for one of a nearby car solved the issue, but it was only a test since it was from another customer's car. A new sensor had to be ordered since it wasn't in stock in the city.
Well, I ordered a new sensor, installed it... And nothing. The symptoms still persist. I have no access to a scanner for the time being and the shop is closed, because, you know, coronavirus and such, not to mention it's 100 miles far from where I am. For the symptoms I believe the same fault code will pop if scanned.
Am I missing something? I disconnected the battery to sort of reset the ECU just in case. Nothing.
So, I'm wondering if the new sensor is faulty, or I need to actively clear the codes through VCDS and do a rescan to see any change, or, God forbid -gasp- is it a wiring issue?
Have at it and pardon my french. Thanks in advance.
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At least the yellow plug ensured the threads are clean, I guess...
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Different rolling diameter as a result of underinflated tyres will trigger the ASR light, ask me how I know...
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The thing with aftermarket radios is that people rely on a continuous 12v feed rather than the ignition live. It is the case in my car, which came with an aftermarket Bluetooth radio. Pulling the key out of ignition does nothing. I have to actively turn it off AND remove the faceplate, otherwise it'll spend the night looking for Bluetooth devices even if it is "off".
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Will have to check inside the cylinders. Fuel consumption is rising and pinging is abhorrent. Fueling with 95 RON since there's nothing else available. I'll need to check fuel trims and the whole lot, there's no way a full tank lasts less than 250 miles in long trips, unloaded and with conservative driving.
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Pour some pop corn into the exhaust and let it get hot. Butter or caramel goes in the tank.
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First things first: Make sure you've got some petrol left in the tank.
Pay special attention to hearing the pump "priming" the delivery system when you turn the key to "on" (before starting the engine). It should pump for about 15 seconds. If not, it could be a dead fuel pump relay or a dead pump.
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Alternative part number: 1K6 955 651 from my original pump.
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That's the aforementioned seatbelt bracket and assembly... A large nut holds it in place. The large wrench in the spare wheel toolkit takes care of it, just in case.
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Mine failed recently, first time it failed a few taps with a wrench solved the problem but now it's proper dead, it "clicks" but that's it, figured it must be tired from almost 14 years of tropical weather and hard water.
Just ordered a Meyle 100 955 0010 unit, it's in the mail right now.
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Clean it but don't disconnect the cable. That way you shouldn't need an adaptation right away. Don't move the butterfly though.
Help! Locked Keys in car
in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)
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Tough stuff. If you don't have access to another set of keys, a small section of (rather stiff) cable in the form of a hook can be sandwiched between the gaps in the door through the weatherstripping, the hook would work to actuate any door handle. Once you can open the doors you'll need to get the rear bench down to fetch the keys.