JGO

That is excellent information, thank you. It matches what I remember. I changed the rear bearings and that was very easy. I could slide them of by hand after bolt #13 was removed. Only thing to be aware of is the high torque for that bolt when loosening and fastening (200Nm + 180deg or something like that). I am a bit afraid if bolts #12 would come out without a fight or breaking and what to do if not...

Here in Norway, they seem to be rather strict with these things, I therefore expect they would not accept the ones fitted at the rear of my car. I agree with your experience from the front brakes. When I replaced mine, there were small torx-screws which did not cause much trouble. The hexhead bolts I think I remember from the rear brakes of my car might well fasten a "hubcarrier" meaning the part to which the bearing gets fixed. In that case, breaking these bolts, damaging the threads is a scary thought....

Hello, the splash guards at my rear brake disks are badly corroded and will be, what I think would be called a "MOT-failure" in the UK next time it is checked. When replacing them, how much trouble should I reasonably expect? From memory when I replaced the disks some time ago, the splash guards seem to be hold in place by some pretty substantial hex-head bolts which I thought was surprising. My questions are: Do the bolts tend to break when trying to undo them? What is the safest method to get them out in one piece (e.g. impact gun or wrench)? Do these bolts hold something more than the splash guards, meaning how much of a disaster is it if I mess up one and cant get the remains out? Thank you very much in advance 🙂

See here:

Your Octavia 1,2 TSI from 2015 has a timing belt. The engine is part of the Volkswagen EA211 family and is a complete redesign after the previous generation which had (problematic) chains.

Is it really necessary to remove the caliper retaining bracket? I'm pretty sure on my 2015 1,2 TSI it is sufficient to remove the caliper.

Hi langers2k, that is precisely what I was after, thank you so much😀. I had been trying to find such explanation online before posting the question. You are right, it seems scaringly easy to make a mistake. So I will do that as paper exercise first and cross check every step before making any change and then also document everything I do, just in case...

You are right of course, I should have included the pics. However, here they are. Selecting Control module 17: Selecting "Coding": The current coding of the controller is shown as long string of digits (maybe hexa decimal):

Hi, I did a search but could not find what I after. For my Octavia III (2015) I would like to change some functionality and found in the section for the Octavia the changes described as e.g.: Controller 17 - Instruments 07 - Coding Byte 10 Enable Bit 4 However, when I connect the NT510, enter the specified controller 17 and choose the option "coding", I can't work out what to do from there. The existing coding seems to be just a long string of digits. Any help is highly appreciated.

Excellent, I was struggling to find a clear enough exploded view drawing of the parts involved. Thank you for your help! 👍

Hi, I have to replace the rear wheel bearing on one side and would, while being there, also like to replace the brake disk cover (by that I mean the thin sheet metal part that covers the entire disk from the rear). While I can find the bearing and the cover itself online, I struggle to find out if the cover is hold in place only by 3 tiny screws (like at the front) or if there are 4 more substantial screws that need to be undone to get the cover off so that I can buy what need before starting the work. Help would be much appreciated.

I was not after a black or white answer. My point was rather that if I can not find any indication of a failed cambelt in the engine type I have anywhere and Skoda as manufacturer still maintains that the belt does not need changing even they loose revenue and have a reputational risk by doing so, then for the time being I tend to believe they might be right. "Lifetime" in this respect I would understand that it is to be expected that the belt will not fail before the engine is worn out or other major engine components have failed. The fact that they suggest that the belt is first inspected at 210000km indicates that they expect the belt to last at least that long.

Not quite sure I understand what you are trying to say. If people get timing belts changed does not mean that the belts needed to be changed. If you could point me to a documented case where a timing belt (or tensioner for that matter) on a EA211 1,2 TSI has failed, I'd be grateful.

I have the EA211 1,2 TSI (105 HP) in my 2015 Octavia III with now about 70000 km and started to wonder about if I should worry about the cam belt. I did remember that when I when I bought the car that the dealer stated the cam belt was good for the life of the car. I found the maintenance documentation referenced also further up where no time limit or mileage limit for cam belt replacement is given. I approached the local Skoda dealership and asked if the factory has changed its view on this and maybe has introduced a recommendation for belt replacement. They checked and replied that the belt is still considered to be for the entire life of the car. I tried to find any indication on the internet that someone had a belt failing in such engine but did not find anything. In comparison, the timing chain problems of the EA111 are all over the place. If Skoda would experience cam belts failing on these engines, I would think they would via their dealer network recommend to replace the belts. This would generate revenue for the factory and the dealerships and avoid possible ****storms and reputational damage that might hit them if cam belt fail despite the manufacturer stating that they will not.

If your car is from 2015, it might have the newer version of the 1,2 TSI which has a cam-belt instead of a chain and is DOHC instead of OHC. In our Fabia II sold a year ago we had the old version and it always a distinct ticking noise from the high pressure fuel pump which is a cylindrical component that sits on top of the cylinder head.

Got the car back yesterday (workshop had received a wrong ABS sensor first). All errors are cleared and have not reappeared on the way home. So far I am quite happy. Quite interesting and surprising (for me anyway) how many error a faulty ABS sensor can cause. Again, thanks a lot to all who have contributed with their knowledge and guided me in right direction 😀

Just a quick update: the left rear ABS sensor got damaged by the magnetic ring on the hub after this ring heavily corroded. Parts are ordered and repair is planned for tomorrow. I'll update here afterwards.

Thank you Dave, very reassuring and makes absolute sense when you explain it that way. It would also seem unlikely that two (or more) errors appear at the same time without obvious reason and without being related one way or other.

Hi 3rdoctavia, thank you for reporting your experience. I finally got my Foxwell-scanner yesterday. I first registered the new battery in the car's controls system as I was advised further up in this thread. When scanning for errors, it displayed an error from the left rear ABS-sensor. The symptoms I am seeing are very much in line with what you report, so there is hope they might mainly disappear once the ABS sensor is sorted. However, I am also seeing some intermittent trouble with the parking sensors. Can't quite see how they would be related to ABS, but will see. You are right with me potentially having spent money on a battery replacement that was not the trigger of my trouble and I was aware of that risk. However, I had trouble in winter with this battery (parking heater would not start due to low voltage) and I also had the (7 years) old battery on a charger over night without getting it to decent voltage. Therefore and as I intend to keep the car for some more years I am happy with having replaced the battery. I'll report once the ABS sensor is sorted.

I begin to understand that indeed an ABS sensor fail might actually be the cause of all or most of the errors I am seeing. Waiting for my scanning device to arrive and hope to conclusive answers from it. Again, thank you all so far 😀

Thank you for your valuable input! The summer wheels I fitted are the ones which the car came with from the factory when new (rims and tires). Wear is practically the same on all four. I checked and adjusted tire pressure on all wheels after fitting them. All that would suggest that the wheels do not cause the trouble. However, before driving for the first time after wheel change I forgot to set the tire pressure monitoring and got an error. So I stopped, set the TPMS and drove on. I would not think that this would upset the system. Now I get TPMS warning every time I drive, but the system does not allow me to set the TPMS. I am rather confused.

That is interesting to know, thank you Dave! I have now ordered the the code scanner and hope to get it within a few days. I still have these errors: ABS/ASR Cornering light (sometimes) Can't store tire pressure setting Parking sensors don't work Those seem so unrelated and the fact that it all started when I changed from winter to summer wheels makes it all more strange to me. 😕

I got the new battery on Saturday and had it connected to a charger until Sunday just to be sure. I read in the workshop manual what to do when changing the battery and followed the advice. Mainly the following seemed important: When installing the new battery, first connect the terminals to the cars cables, then reconnect the plug for the Battery Monitoring System If the old and new battery have identical specs, no coding is needed (in my case both are AGM, the old is rated 68 AH, the new one is 70 AH which I believe is close enough) At first start the following is to be expected: "After connecting the battery and switching on the ignition, the warning light for the stability programme TCS/ESC and the warning light for the power-assisted steering remain lit. The warning lights go out automatically after driving a few metres forward. Thereby the steering angle sender - G85- is activated" Unfortunately this errors did not clear. I drove for about 5 km, stopped 2 times and switched off completely. I will order a decent code reader (thinking of the Foxwell NT530) to investigate further.

"If you do fit a new battery then don't forget to code the battery management system so it knows you have fitted a new battery, otherwise it will still assume the old battery is fitted and still be likely to turn off some systems. If the battery is the same capacity and type all you need to do is change one digit in the serial number field. " That's good to know, thank you Dave! Would you mind to educate me where and how the serial number can be changed? I should get the new battery tomorrow and will fit it during the weekend.

Thank you to all for the valuable input. Again, I am ashamed and sorry for the typos (yes, the car 2015 not 2005). Too bad that I am not able to edit the post...Anyway, should probably have waited til after first coffee until typing....🙄 I have a simple and some years old OBD-reader which is supposed to be for VAG vehicles. Used on a Fabia with success earlier but never never on this Octavia. I connected it and despite several attempts, it was not able to communicate with the car. The assumption that the battery is toast after 7 years seems reasonable. While the car was earlier used almost daily, during the pandemic it stood for weeks on end also in winter which hardly did the battery much good. Even if there might be other issues (which I don't hope), putting in a new battery might be a good idea anyway. I do not think there is a parasitic drain. Over Easter the car was parked for 7 days and when I started it at about 5 degC ambient, all went well.