Maddog43

Hi bigjohn, I agree with you my MKII is transverse, I was talking about my son's Mk1 that now has 225,000 miles on it and still running like a dream :-) Hope my engine does as many miles :-)

Hi, thanks K for the input :-) If I am correct the photo's look like they are the feeds to the confort control module located down on the floor under the carpet in the passenger side footwell, would make sense if water is coming in through the pollen filter in the engine bay :-) We have had weeks and weeks of rain down in Cornwall so its mostly likely water has got in. I will begin the investigation and have the trusty WD40 and a hair dryer with me just in case :-) Will post an update when I have checked it out :-) cheers

Hi Everyone, I need a bit of help if anyone can assist. I have a Superb MK1 1.9tdi 130 Elegance which is developing a few annoying electrical issues, everything from one day the interior light stapped working, then a few months later the front windows stopped working (that now fixed when I changed the drivers motor and switch set) and now then you turn the indictors to the left or right, nada not even a flicker or sound from the control unit, but when I put the hazzards on both left and right indicators flash and the clicking noise from the control unit is heard? Not sure if its the indicator stalk on the steering columb or if there a problem else where. Oh and today the left side dipped beam, high beam and fog light stopped working, I changed the bulbs and the high beam, side light works but the dipped beam still not working, the dipped beam is using a Osram Xenon HID bulbs so has the added complication of the high voltage igniter to add to the possible faults (not sure how you even test this bit of kit). Any help would be appricatied :-)

Hi, I drive a Superb MK2 2.0 170BHP Elegance Hatchback with 128,000 mils but it's a baby compared to 400,000km, I bought mine after my son bought a MK1 and I liked the car, yesterday his flew through it's immissions test with 206,000 miles on it, not even a hint of any problems, garage engineer said it's engine is one brittiant engine mounted length-ways in the Superb because it cools properly, same engine in a Golf mounted traversly is done by about 160,000 miles because the rear of the engine never cools properly/ I'll take his word for it :-)

this is a bit of an old one, baud rate is the term used for the speed at which data is passed (usually down a serial cable) between one device to another, so a 9600 baud rate means 9600 bit of data can be passed down the cable, a baud rate error is usually because of a) there is a break in the cable, b) the connection between contacts isn't a good one c) the two devices are not communicating at the same baud rate, for example a laptop comms set at 9600 and the device only capable of communicating at 400 baud would generate a baud rate error message, the slower device cannot be speeded up but the fast device can be slowed down via the comm port settings. Today modern data transfer works in terms of Mega bit (million bit) or giga bit (1000 million bit) per second using pararell data exchange. Hope that helps some of you younger guys that never had to suffer the old serial data tranfer speeds :-)

Yep sorry guys Lee is correct I was talking about the Fabia MK2, I had the same problem with my wifes car and had just looked in the handbook before logging onto the site. My wifes car isn't blinding everyone but the guy at the MOT centre failed the car becasue it wasn't working. Never even seen it tested on MOT before 😞

The headlight range adjustment fuse as it is correctly known is in the fuse box below the steering wheel and if you check your owners manual it should be listed as fuse no 2, I have the same problem on my daughter in laws car and have checked the fuse and even replaced the tilt switch next to the main light switch with no joy. I need to check the voltages to the motors and then if this is good, then the next step is to remove the hightlights to get access to the adjustment motors. Removing headlights on the car is a complete pain in the butt, first you have to remove the wheel arch linnings to get access to two Torx screws located on the top of the lip on the wing panels (2 scews each side) then you have the joy or completely removing the front bumper to get clear access to the headlight mounting screws. There are 3 screws holding each headlight in place, best to mark the location of the mounting brackets with a fine marker or even masking tape so when you come to but them back you fit the light exactly as it was otherwise you may have to re-set you headlight allignment. There is one screw / mounting bracket located on the side of the wingpanel, one screw / mounting bracket located on the top and one screw / mounting backet located on the bottom inter corner hidden behind the radiator grill when its in place. When the light / lights are out of the car the motors are accessed throught the main bulb access hole, see sKoda workshop manual for how to remove each motor, be careful not to damage the small plastic rob / ball connector which connects the motor to the light lens

Hi everyone, For those of you who are interested I received a call from my son who owns a 2002 Skoda Superb 1.9tdi, right hand drive (UK model) His problem was his battery gave up so bought a new one but then found the bonnett wouldn't open when he pulled the release handle so 999 call to DAD At first it seamed impossible to get it open, tried through the grill but only suceeded in breaking the gill, tried taking the wheel off, removing the lining panel but still no joy because the rad and cooling fans are in the way. Then had the idea of taking off the lower panel to access the tow point which pulls off in seconds (left side lower grill when viewing from front of car) Reached in through left side of opening and right up behind the headlight fitting to get hold of the release cable high up above the light fitting (its tight but do able), then made the mistake of pulling on the cable before realising. the outter cable actually pushes the relase catch not pulls it, reached up as far as I could to hold the cable as near to the catch as posssible then with a tight grip on the cable push forward toward the catch, Hey Presto the bonette popped open ;-) Turns out the release handle dosen't pull the inner cable backward away from the latch but actually pushes the outer cable forward toward the latch. If I had done that to start with, I would have had the bonnet open in about 5 minutes and not wasted 2 hours messing about. Hope this helps anyone with the same problem