SkodaAsh
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Posts posted by SkodaAsh
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6 minutes ago, hhcd80 said:
Sorry I should've been more clear. I meant "wasted" energy from an actual exhaust system engineered to make some decent noise as an alternative to the actuator. Even then I guess there isn't much energy expended but like I said I tend not to be too bothered about the sound of the engine as I would be more likely to be listening to music, podcasts or the radio.
Ah yes. That makes sense. If they’re going to make an actuator, then make it worthwhile by having a better sound. Yep, can’t fault that request!
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4 hours ago, hhcd80 said:
Better alternative? An uprated exhaust from the start maybe?
Mind you, there comes a point where the loud sound is presumably just wasted energy so I would rather the engine's efforts are concentrated in more power and fuel efficiency even if it came at the cost of the engine sounding rubbish, but that is my opinion 🤣I’m not convinced that there is any “wasted” energy from having the sound actuator on, because if there were, it would reflect in reduced performance. With it on, I was able to get from 0-100km/h in 6 seconds flat, faster than what it says on its spec sheet, so t can’t be taking much away from the car…
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I'm in the rare group that likes the sound actuator. I've always been one to enjoy a good engine sound without creating a stir to anyone outside of the car. Yep, a good feature that should stay because it is easily switched off and can be defaulted to being off, as opposed to the Auto Start/Stop feature that I always want to be off but cannot default it to the Off setting.
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Remember that you would only have to buy these lights once!
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Hi. I'd save yourself the handiwork by purchasing one of these from SuperŠkoda (superskoda.com):
I can attest to them as they are super easy to install and do the same as what you're asking for without the drilling and wiring needed.
I have a vRS, though, which this ghost light features its logo.
Alternatively, there are these if your model supports mirror down lights: http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-III/Octavia-III-MEGA-POWER-LED-mirror-downlight-KI-R
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Eco has little efficiency improvement to Normal mode, but is more hesitant to re-engage gears when coming off coasting.
Also, interestingly, when coasting in Normal drive mode, fuel consumption is zero at the cost of a slight drag from being in gear. Most of the time, in city/suburban driving, this is not a loss since coasting doesn't happen for long before we have to brake anyway. Fuel efficiency in Eco mode only really makes a significant difference if there are long downhill distances that don't involve any braking.
I wish Sport mode did gear up at 2,500-3,000rpm rather than 4,000rpm when not pushing the car; it's as if the car assumes the driver is only ever going to flog the car in Sport mode.
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Anyone tried to replace these dull halogen fog lights with bright LEDs?
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Hi all,
In investigating how to replace the front fog lights on my RS, I came across a small hexa- slot inside of the inner aspect of the front panel underneath the floodlights as pictured. This Allows an Allen key to fit inside it and does turn
, but I see no effect to turning the key on any function. Does anyone know what this does?
Also, does anyone with this fog light set up know how to replace fog lights in this particular model? It does not seem to appear in the manuals, because only the previous model configuration is featured in the manual, which does not have this front panel underneath the fog lights.
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I settled on the Pre-FL 2017 model.
It was the right price for me for the performance.
It definitely looks plain. Very unassuming, even with the black pack (which doesn't stand out because I have the grey colour)
Not much of a head-turner.
The interior is practical, yet not an eye-opener.
That's precisely what I was happy with.
The basic body looks great to me but I don't want to attract attention for it to be a target.
Nevertheless, the thing also packs so much power that it's overkill for our suburban roads.
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Thanks xpower for all of this information.
I too have the standard Philips XenStart D3S and found them okay, until I saw the difference others have experienced with their comparison studies. Being less inclined to switch ballasts (which doesn't sound onerous, just too risky for me), would any other Xenon bulbs be significantly better than the standard edition?
I've looked at the OSRAM Xenarc Night Breaker and Philips Extreme Vision Gen 2, and would like to get the best bang for buck. I haven't ventured into LED as yet since I'd rather keep the lights street legal.
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Sorry to be ignorant on this topic, but is the purpose of the Regen to just clean the turbo and how do you know it’s happening? I haven’t noticed any fan running in the 2years I’ve had my Octavia TSI RS.
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I took my RS to the local service station and they confirmed the gear-shift mechanism fault and replaced it under warranty. I'll look out for any further Maxidot warnings.
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Haha. I took that extra step and it worked. Thanks!
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1 hour ago, Rustynuts said:
Unpair the phone and start again, re pair and it should be okay.
Hate to say it was as easy as that, but my previous attempt at unpairing wasn't "complete" enough.
I had to "Forget the devise" in order for it to repair without that problem.
Hoping it's now solved.
Thanks for the suggestion.
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No problems with iPhone until this one (if it is a problem).
The problem was with iOS 13.0, 13.1 and 13.1.1
I'll retry unpairing as I thought I tried that and failed.
Will look into it again.
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Has anyone got a solution for this problem that arises when the infotainment system tries to wirelessly connect to the iPhone via Bluetooth?
I have to escape the PIN prompt to get any functionality out of the infotainment system because entering the iPhone PIN causes the screen to freeze with “Please wait”, whether with the right PIN or not. Any ideas?
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On 22/07/2018 at 07:19, dunc69 said:
This is what I see also. Only 1.5 years old and I've driven it quite gently. The error only started to appear since the last service 6 months ago. And only intermittently, like every 2nd or 3rd drive and only at the beginning of the drive. The thread seems to allude that there is a genuine gear-shift problem that needs rectifying. What would happen if I just kept driving with it? So far my vRS has performed as normal for me.
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On 29/06/2019 at 20:08, aldouk said:
Not using Skoda connect anymore.
Sorry yes didn’t explain how it came about. Simply phone auto connects to Bluetooth, the first few seconds of a song play and then that comes up. No music, nothing.
I inputted my phones pin, it just says please wait and I have to turn infotainment off and then back on.
It’s only happened since I have the beta version of IOS13, so must be a major bug somewhere. In fact that whole beta has bugs, seems a very premature release.
I was just seeing if anyone had suggestions on what the PIN could be as I don’t remember setting one up on the infotainment.I downloaded the iOS 13 (not beta) yesterday and the same thing is happening with my Octavia vRS 2017.
It's definitely annoying.
It won't come out of "Please wait" and allow me to use the infotainment unit if I decide to enter the PIN.
Don't enter the pin and I can use the infotainment system, but the phone still connects. I don't understand it.
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On 08/08/2019 at 21:09, FlyingGecko said:
Just to clarify, if the turbo's going pear shaped, the smoke won't necessarily be continuous and/or under load. I speak from expensive experience...
Doesn't mean it IS the turbo though, but in my case it was. Smoke was sporadic and in varying conditions. I still suggest our Queensland friend gets it all checked out though, if only for peace of mind.
In my case, the “white” smoke, which is probably moisture, because it left a mist on the back window, was only seen under load. This was on a cold morning soon after the car got to 90 degrees oil temp.
Nothing so far far indicates there is a mechanical problem. Would any warnings show up on the car notification system if there was ?
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On 05/08/2019 at 21:42, Roottootemoot said:
What ambient temp is it that you start the car from cold in, and how many km do you drive the car before getting an indicated oil temp of 80-90*oC.
What octane of fuel do you use?
If you the coolant is not dropping and you are not burning oil then it is condensation / H20. Your firing it out the exhaust.
Maybe don't drive so easy ozzy until oil up to temp, just normal. You can use the turbo, unless maybe you are in a really cold environment.
Just not full laldy.
It’s currently winter here, and it takes 10minutes of normal driving to get to 90deg. But what’s normal compared to “easy”? And does that affect the longevity of the turbo? It’s often 4 degrees ambient temperature here in the mornings.
i always use 98 octane fuel.
Coolant doesn’t drop. Oil is not being consumed as yet.
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On 04/08/2019 at 09:18, shyVRS245 said:
Could be one of these reasons.
Thanks. I looked into those and doubt it falls into any of those non-turbo categories. Only happens when really boosting power using turbo. Otherwise clean.
On 04/08/2019 at 15:57, Kenai said:Is it smoke or condensation/steam?
If it's smoke something is probably very broken.
If it's condensation, most 2.0tsi do it to some extent and the severity varies with conditions. Can look worse on estates as the entire rear screen can mist up briefly.
The way I see it, it's white "stuff" that I'm not convinced is smoke. Just a lot of it, and yes I see it clearly at the back of my wagon and clears up after settling down.
On 04/08/2019 at 16:57, dsj20v said:As above condensation smoke/steam very common on petrol vrs's, if its 17 plate it will still be under warranty so pop into a dealer just to be sure
Yes, I expected as much. It is under warranty, and I'll have it checked at the next service, but since there is no drop in performance, no change in noises, and no warning problems, I'll just monitor until then. Drives fine when not being pushed.
On 04/08/2019 at 18:53, Excision said:White smoke typically caused by water. Blueish smoke more often associated with oil burning.
would not expect to see any smoke at all with a warmed up car. Cars still warming up will expel water vapour but should then stop when the engine and exhaust are fully warmed through.
It's definitely white. But it was when oil temp was >90 degrees. So that's where I'm under as to why it was still pluming out the back when pushed in turbo.
On 04/08/2019 at 20:28, flybynite said:Smoke from the usual culprits in the turbo usually happens on the over-run or just as you come off the throttle, however it can fail in ways to smoke on boost.
Turbo is easy enough to check for play and backlash. Compression test will check for a leak from the head.
As above, very likely it is steam if you are only doing short runs. Does it do this when fully warmed up?
Thanks for the explanation - it's beyond my scope to be able to diagnose, but I agree it is likely steam. Is this more of an issue with those cars that do a lot of short runs (as mine does, not using turbo much at all)? My test run above was when the car was fully warmed up, and that's where I'm questioning the steam/smoke.
13 hours ago, tunedude said:Have you access to a diagnostic tool justin case there's an error code stored. It'll give you more of an indication as to what the problem is.
Unfortunately, I'm not privy to the tools to diagnose any problems, but the car itself issues no warning lights or problems in the OneApp through CarPlay.
3 hours ago, Gti Jazz Blue said:My vRS does this if you boot it after a number of short trips - consensus at the time was that it was condensation from moisture in the exhaust, doesn't do it a lot - just under certain circumstances when giving it the beans joining a motorway.
No other adverse symptoms on mine, no oil use, coolant use or signs of anything left on the tailgate or exhaust tips.
Now that's my answer.
I assumed as much since there was no indication that the car had a problem (no power loss, no noises, no warning lights), but I wanted to confirm that. Yes, my vRS does almost exclusively short trips of <10km, but frequently (2-3 times a day) and it was only that test drive (when I booted it very briefly on 2nd gear) that I noticed the white smoking misting up the back of the car only whilst pushing it. The rest of the time, it is the standard clear exhaust.
Thank you for all of your answers.
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Please bear with the rookie question but I’m keen to know if I should take the car to the Škoda garage for a look in or not.
2017 pre-FL vRS
driven mostly short distances
always warmed to 80-90 degrees oil temp before giving the turbo a push
turbo only used for a few seconds at a time (can’t do much with 60km/h speed limits)
just noticed (although it is likely it has been happening all along with turbo) that it billows white smoke from the exhaust whenever the turbo is being used
Question is how much is normal?
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On 17/01/2019 at 08:02, NikTheGeek said:
Mine stop starts with the temp set to Hi. Being a cold-blooded wuss, its permanently on Hi and stop start still kicks in when the engine is warm enough.
Where is this setting?
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On 12/01/2019 at 00:55, shyVRS245 said:
Amazed how many DSG owners switch off the stop/start but understand because it drove me nuts (still recovering but undergoing therapy) on my 2015 Vrs TDi DSG hatch so after 7 months and 7,000 miles got rid.
How do you make Stop-Start off the default setting? Was that a mechanic-only action?
, but I see no effect to turning the key on any function. Does anyone know what this does?
Inner bonnet covers
in Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)
Posted
Hi team,
I bought an RS in 2017, and later a Kodiaq for the Mrs last year, relatively comparable. In a recent comparison of underneath each hood, I noticed a couple of covers missing on my RS, which I bought new from the dealer, compared to the Kodiaq. I don't suppose these were intentional oversights, however I gather the under bonnet dust cover, and rear panel dust cover ought to be there. Anyone know any reason why they would not be on the RS? If they should exist, anyone know where I could find them to buy? I am located in Queensland, Australia