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sakta

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  • Location
    Dorset

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  • Model
    MK3 Octavia vRS TDI
  • Year
    2013

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  1. Just made a booking to have mine mapped, next week on Thursday before the REVO offer ends. for reliability, there is nothing different about mapping an Octavia to remapping any other car. You are putting more wear on your turbo, clutch and flywheel. If you drive it normally with the occasional hard pull, you will not make any substantial difference to the lifetime of the car. If you are an aggressive driver, then the difference will be noticeable. If your car is already close to, or at 100K and you have an aggressive map put on, and then spend all day with your foot planted, then you could very easily kill the turbo in a few thousand miles. At the end of the day REVO have access to more cars and have more staff and tracks to test their cars on than most tuners, and have likely covered far more miles with the software on than other tuners, to make sure it’s reliable as for the common oil burning issue, I changed the oil for Liquimoly TopTech 4200 and added some Ceratec. I haven’t burned a drop in the last 3-4000 miles.
  2. Just like mechanics, most tuners are clueless and either flashing a poor quality generic map made by someone online, or changing 1/3 of the individual maps they should be. Even the companies with a proper rolling road don't do a good job half the time, even if the vehicle makes more power - it doesn't mean it is done safely or properly. REVO is one of the best as they have a large team and test their tunes on lots of cars before approving them and selling them. They also let you choose between low and high boost depending on if you want longevity or power. If you don't have a nearby reseller APR are not bad either (but known for aggressive tunes killing turbos quickly), RacingLine are worth considering as well. Revo quote £480 to increase power from 184ps to 217-236 ps (depending on boost you select), and from 380nm to 468-515nm. I believe it shaves almost a second off the 0-60, a petrol will always be faster but the map does make a marked improvement.
  3. Awfully embarrassing! The front tow hook was at home not in the car which is why it was towed out through the control arm (oops!). I went to a local tyre place for an alignment, they pretty much said we don't want to take your money as we doubt its an alignment issue, so going to the mechanic tomorrow. Part of me hopes it is suspension damage so I have an excuse to fit my coilovers the car is in need of some work at this mileage.
  4. This is rather embarrassing, but I forgot to put the handbrake whilst at a car park, and the rear end rolled into a ditch. I tried to drive out but the front wheels both spun as it was muddy. The AA man ended up hooking up a strap to the bottom of the front control arm. Now the car crabs and it skips bumps (the rear end swerves right a little). Is this something that can be solved with a 4 wheel alignment, or has it falling into a ditch likely bent the chassis and its now a write off?
  5. From photos the diameter on the bends is slightly smaller but not by much, maybe 5% or so I would imagine. Its not bad at all compared to cheap chineseium boost pipes where the pipe is almost half the diameter at a bend
  6. FMIC will make it spool a little later. So around 2500RPM. But again at this age expect boost leaks which will affect power. That and the possibility of a bad remap making things worse. Most remaps for our engines are poor and not really on the dot. So it will bring out mechanical issues even more
  7. Its best to make your own thread. This is for the mk1 Fabia, but the fix should be the same. Unstable temperature, always change the thermostat
  8. So far replaced Both wishbones Both control arms ARB Links Ive attached a video of me moving the wheel back and forth. There is play and it moves an inch either way. When I turn either way, there is clicking coming from the left side. When I accelerate hard, it pulls hard to the left as if most power is going there. If I go over a bump, the steering jolts, and the motorway the car veers left and right. The steering also doesn't return to center most of the time, and when you are almost at full lock it almost 'falls' into place. The tyre is also VERY worn on the outer area near the side wall, and slightly worn on the inside. IMG_5750-1.mov
  9. I very much doubt it is just software. But for sure you can get a remap/stage 1 once a company like Revo has made one, which should increase the other two somewhat
  10. Well, the thing is, it can make 220hp or so. But you need a front mounted intercooler, PD150 headbolts, 4 Bar MAP Sensor. Do you have those? If not, then no real point getting a remap, because you won't be able to make any use of the turbo. So you have to make sure you have those sorted first before anything. I post on a tuning forum now and then, where people post their own maps for review, and some maps that people have paid for are absolute ****. A good map is hard to do, and a lot of tuners make silly mistakes that will kill your turbo quickly by pushing too much boost, etc. Most common mistake is just bad tuning that will make it run rich and make low power, but again the turbo is only thing that can really fail As sepul said, plenty of maps available from map suppliers. So you could in theory buy one and flash it yourself.
  11. I've recently done a lot of repairs to my Fabia, quite a lot was wrong... Fitted new control arms (with new console bushes etc - they were knackered), new ARB links, and the steering is tighter. But, there is a lot of play in the steering, when you go over a bump, you get a loud thud in the car, and the steering shakes. My mechanic has looked twice, and he still can't find the source of the problem. If it helps, when I turn, I get clicking so assuming my CV joints or driveshafts are on the way out, but I assume this is a different problem? On an unrelated note, I get a weird intermittent whistle, seems to be around N75 area. Its a constant frequency, doesn't go up and down according to boost. But it starts as soon as boost kicks in, so around 2200RPM+ - really worrying me, its not that loud at all but unsure what it could be?
  12. I wouldn't go to Darkside. They aren't such good tuners, great hardware, but bad quality tunes, terrible torque spike that kills clutches and DMFs. They also set an aggressive popcorn limiter/launch control that reduces the lifespan of the turbo and injectors. At 60K miles your Fabia holds quite a bit of value, so you'd want a safe, reliable tune I'd check Celtic Tuning, they can come to your door and map it. PD Hereford also seem to know what they're doing judging by their Youtube comments. Spike at 2240RPM which makes no sense.
  13. When I bought the car originally it drove fine, had normal power and was remapped. No problems at all till joined a motorway with launch control which made the turbine blow. 1st replacement turbo (now failed) - car was burning oil and down on power with this fitted. Gradually it got worse, sometimes it would enter limp mode and not run on boost at all, sometimes it would make a loud weird whining noise, which was fixed by turning car off and on. The new, currently fitted turbo was fitted at the same time as the EGR delete, was fitted by mechanic so unsure what was done but confirmed that he did blank off the EGR port on the turbo I've tried both the original map, and a new map where I made some changes, both with and without the EGR deleted, as well as disabling MAF so it runs purely off the ECU map. In all cases nothing changes, it stayed the same
  14. I plugged the only one that was removed, being for the EGR which is labelled "2"
  15. Sorry, another topic, again... but seeing as some like Wino, sepul know more than any mechanic around here does, Ill try My original turbo failed at 170,000 miles. Since then, I've had it replaced, and after the replacement the car was clearly down on power, and burnt oil, still drove though. That turbo managed 15,000 before failing (cheap used ebay jobbie) I've replaced the turbo again with a refurb one, cleaned out the intercooler pipes from all the oil the old one left when it failed, deleted the EGR and anti shudder valve, but now the car has literally no power. It can't rev above 1400RPM or so, is a little smokey and if I press the pedal down further than 40%, I get a knocking sound from the engine (see video attached). Doesn't seem to be any boost leak as there is no air whooshing sound It seems to idle okay, every 10-20 seconds or so it feels as it if just about to die though. My car has been parked at the mechanics for a week, he is far too busy and claims issue must be software as I deleted the EGR, but there are no error codes for the EGR, just the ASV valve. What could it be? Only thing I could think of was the N75 vacuum tube as the mechanic didn't block it initially, but that's been plugged and no change 62507258557__44EF205C-D3B2-4634-964D-998E465321B9-Up to 4K.mov
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