SwatKat

Nope, it’s set at max. And it’s rarely happening, but this is why I don’t fully trust it:))

Ok, thanks, mine is also slightly starting to peel the laquer. For waht I have noticed, but I guess this is not related to peeling, as it happened before, I sometime experience radar not picking up the car in the front, and I continue to approach the car in front of me and only when I get closer the car starts to brake more aggressively than it should.

I have the same thing, and I've noticed that also the lacquer of top of the plastic cover of the ACC has started to peel off. Will this affect the ACC?

@Warrior193 : if I take into account that my original Banner has lasted me since 2017 and I guess is still going quite ok, I tend to say EFB is pretty solid. My main concern is that, with the upcoming winter and as I don’t usually use the car, I’d get into trouble when wanting to drive one morning… this is why I would consider replacing the battery now, when I’m not under pressure. And to maybe avoid having low voltage errors. And, what are the minimum values for battery health, SOH, voltage etc. when one should consider replacing an old battery. For example, it the shop says battery is stil around (let’s say) 65%, should I change it?

I’m the first owner of the car and bought it from the Skoda dealer. Never changed it. Of course I’ll go and make the proper coding, but I was wondering if AGM is worth the money and to figure out why one of the shops mentioned that for non-frequent use EFB is better. Also, I guess either Exide or Banner would be ok - found some 70Ah - 760A as I recall so a tad more than my current one

So, my 2017 O3 1.4 TSI still has the original Banner EFB battery. 120k km so far, mostly long ad rare drives (could be almost 2-3 weeks of car just sitting). S/S does not work unless in summer and after a very long holiday drive, but otherwise car starts with no issues and no warning about low voltage. Tries measuring the voltage after almost 2 weeks and it read 12.3V (I know therte are other important metrics involved, don't have a smart battery tester). So, as winter is approaching, instead of buying a jump-starter like 70Mai Midrive and then having also to replace the battery, I'd go directly for the battery change. And, if you agree with me 🙂, should I stay on EFB or go with an AGM battery? (one local shop told me to stay on EFB if I don't drive the car more frequent, but I'm not sure this is true). And, second question, Banner or Exide? Thanks!

Thanks, it may be silly from a point of view of somebody who is (a lot more) technical. And it’s the first time that this city is this underwater. So, in principle, if all is good and car drove without any issue after this, it all should be ok. As far as have seen, water was just up the lower lip of the front bumper. Thanks!

Thanks, I only hope that (1) water was not that high, especially as all cars drove through that and none of them, as far as I could tell, had any immediate issues, The same as on the other side. Maybe I'm over cautious, and sorry for that silly question...

Upon entering the city limits the main road passes underneath a bridge. And I got myself caught in the trafic with no way to reverse. Unde that passage the water height was around 15 cm height (just passing the curb) and everybody was driving very slow. In front of of me there was a BMW 3 series. I passed through without an issue, so far no problems and at home I saw that the radiator was wet on its lower 1/3rd. I guess water may have entered just above the spoiler lip (there is the black "comb" part) - sorry but English is not my native language so I don't know exactly how to name some terms/parts! I guess all is good, it was under 15 seconds, but for argument's sake, if water reached the undercarriage of the car can the DSG develop some damage in time? I know it's only guessing but it's my first drive through such a flooder road - I was stuck in traffic with heavy raining and I couldn't turn to take another way and in 10-15 min all was flooded!

For my 2017 1.4 TSI 150, I’ve found 2 (different?) codes for replacing spark plugs and don’t know which is good or if there are any differences. I’m almost at 120k km and again have to replace them. OE VW 04E905601B or OE VW 04E905602. Also, as I’ve had over the last years one misfire event triggerring a flashing CEL light (no other issues) I want to also replace the coil packs. For these what code no. I should search for? For example, in february this year I got a flashing CEL when idling, light after driving 1300 km. Restarted engine all was good. Back home I went to a garage, cleared the codes. That was 2 months ago. Today, after another 1000 km driven, I put an Obd scanner and found out small no of misfires on cylinders 19/11/10/9.

Thanks will ask for all to be changed. Misfire is extremely random and rare (4 times in 3 years and over 40k driven) and I wouldn’t suspect a more serious issue with the valves/injector/engine. I would think that if such a problem would exist it would manifest itself more frequently

So, got the car tested and I got the misfire error on the same cylinder (cyl 4) as the first time it happened (3 years / nearly 40k ago). Because in the near future I have to change the spark plugs I will also ask them to change coilpacks (or just the one for cyl 4?) It seems that the only cyl affected is the 4th one.

I have the exact issue you’re describing, since I mainly do long drives, once or twice per year after completing the drive and engine idling CEL starts to flash and goes away if I ramp up the rpm. Then all goes back to normal. First time I went to dealer said maybe the gasoline or if not, I should have left the car there. It had 74k km. Now I have 120k, yesterday I got another intermitent CEL after 100 km highway trip and in the next couple of weeks I also have to change the spark plugs. Will tell them to to a tester before to see that cylinders have the misfires and maybe also change the coilpacks?

7 1/2 years old Octavia here, 95% long trips, but with longer periods between. S/S is still active but only after longer trips. Battery voltage is 12.4 checked with a multimeter) and whenever I don't forget toc check in Skoda connectlite, I see the same value - when stopped, ofc. No other electrical issues so far. I'll see if I have the time to replace the battery before winter time or wait until spring... Thanks for the information here to know what to ask for coding, as I won't go to the dealer (checked prices and for a replacement it's almost double for OE and +50% for other battery type they can install (I think Exide). When the time comes I want to go with Varta AGM and I see that there are some decent garages that have the new A7 type, so technically the battery should be newer and not "suffer" from improper storage on their shelves.

@Ootohere: yes 25k km as I only drive on highways and long journeys in about 1 and a half years. Never had an issue with oil consumption it mainly sits at 2/3 after this period. on the brake fluid, I had it changed but they overflowed the can I guess. At least as I recall they fiddled at all wheels I guess to get the air out. my problem is that after this they left the excess fluid there and the can was full.

I know it may be as the min-max level are there for a reason. Overfilling can lead to pressure spill on a hot day while descending, for example. And puts a higher strain on gaskets/ components cause to the higher pressure

I've almost never checked the oil. Oanec maybe 1,5 years, as I drive only on highway and I am on flexible service plan. For example, this summer, after 25k after the last oil change I checked the dip and it was just above 2/3. Now I was lazy and went for the first time to a nearby garage and not the dealer (I was on vacation). I've also asked the dealer and said it's not that much, 1 mm over the max level, so I'd be safe letting it be. I'm not mentioning that I also dis a brake fluid change and this morning I found out that it was filled just at the neck, way more than max. Had to extract couple of syringes to be at max level...

Shouldn't a cold engine (stopped for more than 1h) have more oil as more oil drips in the bay? So following this logic, max level with a cold engine should mean less max after running (part of oil is still above, in the motor.) Maybe I'm wrong, but nevertheless, I will also check as per the manual. I wanted to be sure this is not (a large) overfill so that I could drive the car a bit to check. I left the car near the garage as I had stuff to to and when I got back they were closed and I was left with my unanswered questions.... Thanks for replying

Thank you for the reply!

This is how it looks. Should i worry?

Ok so this means now they’ve put too much. They said that the program shows for 1.4 tsi 2014-2017 4l but they added also 250 ml to te at max. I’ll wait till tomorrow to check again but after leaving the service I saw it was just over the max line

Hi! Went for the 1st oil change after warranty at a (rather reputable) service outside dealership. Just wanted the ouil change. First they only ordered just 4l of 5w30 Mobil1. And were like it’s too low. I said that the dealer always ordered 5l and only consumed a bit from the 1l can. Mechanic went to speak with somebody and came and added round 250ml. But now it seems like the ould is just above the max line - and I only checked with engine just after running so maybe when it cools down it may be more? (My parking spot in not leveled, I will try tomorrow to go park somewhere else and to let the car sit for 2-3 h before checking again) But just wandering why they only ordered 4l of oil - what the manual says? - I’m pretty sure that always the dealer put more than 4l.

Ok, thanks all. I thought that some contact cleaner would be safer to use than just Sanytol or Ajax for windows. And wanted something to dissolve the goo/Sprite. And I also don't want to damage the plastic buttons or the markings on them so that's why I thought contact cleaner could do the job - also it comes with that straw that could spray the stuff somewhat behind the buttons. This weekend will definitely try and hope I don't come back crying for help

Hi. I hope I'm posting in the right place, it seems to me that the topic is of concern.. About a year ago, while in traffic, wifey opened a bottle of Sprite, which started pouring out like a geyser. (i)logically, in order to protect her purse, she kept the bottle closer to the center console... and the entire climate control panel was spilled... Cleaned as much as possible and all seemed to be ok. And it's ok, everything is working very well... only in summer. In the winter, when it's cold, some buttons, including the heating for the passenger seat (karma ) seem to be blocked and only after the car warms up a bit, they "recover" but are a little harder to press... plus some buttons they seem to "stick" to each other. The sticky juice is probably behind them and that's causing this problem. So, if I try to use some contact cleaner between the buttons (using the straw from the bottle), can I damage something? I understood that it is quite difficult to disassemble that panel and it is probably even more painstaking have it disassembled and cleaned so I'll first try some simpler solutions, if possible and if I'm not damaging things.. I would appreciate some ideas/advice. Thank you!

Thanks, this weekend did the motor replacement. Expensive like hell! Disassembled the coupling and the gasket was a bit loose (the spring inside it was the clprit, I guess - so the gasket was not sealing anymore. Hope for another 6 years On the other hand, the garage had battery tester units, so I found out battery is around 60%. So next spring at the latest I need to replace also this!