Davidmb

Lol... I thought it looked a bit sinister. Anyone know if any of the mounts are easily replaceable using a jack in case I luck out and it's that one? Otherwise might be a garage visit...

Getting a lot of vibration on acceleration. Video shows me engaging gear and then depressing clutch and repeating with no acceleration. Is this a normal amount of movement? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WzwJxilkwskryVMW65pmmIqTygY0fpGK/view?usp=share_link

Thanks for a solution as well much appreciated...

On the right of the cylinder head of my 05 TDI 1.9 Octavia Elegance there is this component that I think has a bad gasket causing oil loss. Anyone know the name of this component circled in picture?

Update the laser tool is not suitable. The 10 x 1.0 threads are unnecessarily broad for a reamer tool, and I was not going to get the tap and die set out on a £60 tool. Atm trying to get a return. Glow plugs fitted, no fault code and onto next issue.

Any ideas where I find the info for maximum bore depth and width for when reaming carbon out of glow plug apertures? The only post on Briskoda I can find is this and it's not very useful.

Went for this will update with review. Laser Tools 5504 Glow Plug Aperture Cleaner 10mm

Looking for any additional input on glow plug reamer - titanium coated versus...

5

This issue was visible as soon as surround was pulled back. Between door and pillar. Did not need to remove panel at all. easy fix with solder and heat shrink tube/tape - even if you have to taker panel off. Used blade to remove cloth wrap btw.

Ah the dreaded practice... I see these in the product info. Pardon my ignorance. What is difference between 'to' and 'from?' Tightening torque to [Nm]:20 Tightening torque from [Nm]: 15

Appreciate link thanks.

For me to believe that I would need the data that no PD engine has ever broken from a Glow Plug Tip. Maybe the fault was not fixed. Carbon build up can fry plugs (hopefully not my issue ) - you can remove carbon deposits with a reamer

VCDS, or any compatible engine code scanner/reader would be able to tell you if there was an electrical fault, or other - maybe in the glow plug circuit. Often just a pointer to further tests... Like I said I am only guessing, and you will need to research more. Glow plugs in situ, to a degree, can be tested with a multimetre. Plenty of videos on YouTube. Question is, what would you do if you found out that you have faulty glow plugs? Your vehicle has 220, 000 on clock. It can be a total pain job with some real horror stories if it goes wrong. If you are good mechanically, or can afford to go as deep as the rabbit hole takes you, then maybe but hmmmm. I mean mine had two not even working, and still started - rough idle though, diesel knock, and a risk of glow plug tip breaking off (maybe). And all this is speculation as I don't know for sure anyway. Maybe others have better experience or more accurate diagnosis.

Thanks for your opinion, but that was not the question I was asking.

Have you got any way of plugging it in? Engine Management light can be off and still have faults: There are cheap ways with a laptop, a USB KKL cable, and software. Garage last charged me £100 to read a fault code FFS... My guess is a glow plug issue, but I am pretty new to diesel repairs.

Just spent two days loving the glow plugs out of a 1.9tdi Elegance Octavia Estate: 177 thousand miles on clock. The glow plugs I assume are originals as there is no voltage information, just the following: The plugs read 266 001 BEO N10591602 VW-AG Beru Germany 531 Photos show old plugs. condition of tips 🙈 Are these the original? And are these a suitable replacement? BERU ISS GE100 Glow Plug 5V 25A M10x1,0 | Order now! (onlinecarparts.co.uk)

Thanks for everyone's quick response. The issue was broken wires between the drivers door and connectors on pillar. See photo for issue causing problem: Fixed by soldering and insulating wires.

So I guess inspect from loom if possible, and drivers door panel off and check all connectors?

Car does not think doors are shut, and thus central locking, d/s window control, and central dash lock mechanism not working. I have done some initial research, but need a little guidance on diagnostic procedure. Read about possible bad engagement/earth in tail lock, down the rabbit hole. Someone suggested moving lock in boot.... temporally seemed to work. Cannot replicate though, so unsure. Worked for 1 night. Windows and central locking back. Drove once, issue returned. Could be red-herring. Could a single lock mechanism cause this? Fob seems ok. Confident issue is car side. No ability to use central locking on key, fob, or use drivers control panel for windows. Passenger side control for that side window works fine. No obvious water ingress near back lock - both top or bottom. Earths looked ok. Any suggestions on possible causes much appreciated.... Or is there a way to bypass each lock so I can whittle down the actual source?

Whether it is piston rings or more likely valve guides. I guess the question is, would it even be worth repairing. It is a 03 plate 1.2 petrol with 140,000 miles? When I replaced the clutch, thanks to the help of this forum, I noticed just how poor engineering quality has been normalised in modern vehicles. That and now this - does not fill me with much confidence. The cost of leak down and compression test, properly re-sleeving valves just make me think - scrap the car for parts and replace.

My sister has taken it out today, but I will check later and update. Regards

MOT was over a year - Covid extension... 140,000 on the clock I am guessing an emission check would determine if the piston rings are shot? Thanks for heads up on modern catalytic converters...

I am really stuck on a problem My 1.2 petrol -03 Skoda is losing about 3 litres of oil a week. There are no signs of leaks in the engine - I also use florescent tracer - and there is nothing coming out of the block No visible white smoke from exhaust The oil is not mixing with water Any ideas of where all the oil might be going?