Cozza89

Been adjusting the gear linkage all morning. It seems to be the selector is not doing its job. I have sprayed some silicon lube in places, but the selector is quite relucting in moving up and down. The locking pin also doesn’t seem to budge past 45 degrees. Very odd!

Any input is appreciated mate. I know it’s nothing that’s completely gone and expensive, so that’s a bit of relief.

Hi all, my fabia has been stood for a while. I had an RTC in December and it’s been in my garage ever since. I bought a new one after waiting for so long for insurers. (Circumstances) As expected the battery was dead, replaced with a new one. however my gear stick seems to be a stuck, but not completely. It seems to be refusing to shift into reverse, 1, 2 & 5. the car at first was refusing to budge, I presume this was the car trying to drive in 3rd gear at idle. But after working with the wheels and a few revs. All was okay ish. my wheels were completely seized , they wouldn’t rotate so I jacked them up and gave the back two drums and front discs a good whack and they’re ok now. my issue is with the gear shifts, the car is responding way better now but I don’t want to overwork it. I was wondering if anyone has been in a similar situation, and could tell me things to look out for? I’m presuming in regards to the gear shifts, the transmition fluid needs changing. Is this normal after been stood for 5 months? is there any other things I should look out for? thanks

Yep, I would have rather got a replacement however I just went with the repair. All sorted now, solder seal connectors did the trick covered with some traditional black heat shrink tubing.

Hahaha, that’s where he is going from now on! This is what I’m looking at: im unsure of my plan of attack, I’ll be honest! I have an iron solder, heat shrink an electric solder. But looking at it, it looks beyond repair.

Hi Ken was thinking the same. The scenario is, my puppy cocker has decided to taste the wires and cut clean through the cable. And it’s the cable that runs underneath the rear carpet — unsure if it detaches yet! The top one — thanks! I don’t want to solder the wiring but I may have to.

I don’t think your garage likes you

Hi does anybody know the part number for the yellow plug that goes alongside the green one, under the drivers seat i can’t find it for the life of me Thanks

Hi I had a bump in the snow and needed to replace my tailgate i have a 1.6 tdi and ended up using one from a 1.2 htp No difference except the logo placement, I would recommend waiting for one to pop up on eBay or from someone breaking a fabia. one less job for when you decide to change the logo and model type badge 😂 especially when you’ve had your fight with the rear whiper. I’d also avoid buying just the shell and make sure the wiring harness is included, it usually is. I ended up doing what the cool kids do, and not replacing the rear whiper but buying the kit from killallwhipers, well worth it let us know how you get on

Yes, brand new will be rather expensive, hence why I went with second hand. Buy from skoda or ebay is my advice. I bought mine from ebay. VW Caddy. Brown plug. Yes the brown plug leads to the sensor you need to replace. All EGT sensor are the same. or most. They all are L shaped with an aluminium sleeve. I did the diagnosing myself, with a little help locating bank 1 sensor 3 from briskoda - as always. The exact one i bought and fitted; 03L906088BK Brown plug. VW Caddy. Attached photos. Also if you have an ODB scanner to hand , please check your DPF input gas temperature as below, if it reads a ridiculous temperature it’s 1000% the same error i had (not that i’m already certain it is).

The brown plug leads to an EGT sensor which reads the exhaust temperature before it goes through the DPF, if you read the ‘DPF inlet temperature’ using an OBD scanner it will read 999 degrees celsius. That’s the error your ECU is reading and what the Glowplug engine management light will be on for. bare in mind i had the exact same issue as yourself and i have fixed it. will edit with a screenshot of my odb reading from when i had the problem. 😁

i have this sound too, 1.6 tdi cayc nobody has touched my EGR valve, ex fleet car as owner and me as the 2nd so i doubt the fleet company has made any modifications but now you have me curious 🤨

You will need to get underneath, unplug the brown one, find where it’s going to and hey presto, remove the sensor. As the sensor is broken anyway i would recommend clipping the wire with pliers and getting a 17mm open end ratchet spanner, there is a little bit of sleeve before the sensor, clip the wire right before that unless you have something that can clip through steel/aluminium whatever it is you will know what i mean when you’re underneath and why i clipped the wiring

Hi, as previously stated this is the part you need, and sorted me out with the sensor 3 issue. the sensor routes to the brown plug which is near the DPF sensor (black plug), disregard that sensor. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Fabia-2-II-5J-Bj-10-1-6TDi-Exhaust-Gas-Temperature-Sensor-03L906088-BK-/165012194277?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

I would advise taking the undertray off yes, more space for your right arm.

it SHOULD work, the biggest task will be removing the actual sensor from the manifold. if you have limited space and aren’t comfortable removing unfamiliar parts, i would suggest cutting the wiring just past the metal sleeve, so you can get maybe and angled ratchet spanner on it. or there are two inlets that run through the midsection at the back of the engine wall (firewall), have a look into removing them if you have taken out the air box housing already & manoeuvring through that way. 😁

Very frustrating to get to from the top, so you may aswell save yourself some time and jack it up and attack from the underneath, rather than the top. I got myself the same sensor from a VW Caddy, took out the sensor from the socket and plugged in the replacement, the DPF inlet temperature was back to normal. Have fun😁

So the original culprit to which I thought it was turned out to be correct. So awkward. I’ve bit the bullet and bought one from eBay – OEM. Taken from a VW Caddy 2010. Which hopefully will do the job 😁

Many thanks Wino. Annoyed at myself for not spotting it deeper down. which leads to my first suspect, the brown socket.

Hi matt. same engine as you, do you have the part number to hand? The one you originally replaced is sensor 1. you must be doing something right as my temperature showing as 999 degrees.

The equivalent to a woman’s hair grip. all of sudden they’re everywhere 😁

Hi faz presuming you have it fixed now but if you have gave up. that is the wrong connector on the end. the end of the part code should have BK (not EC) on the end and should be black not orange 😁 i have the same engine as you. 03L906088BK the one you’re looking for.

I did the exact same thing, found it tucked away before the sump on the underneath of the manifold 🙄 9 months after.

Learn to check for yourself. Improper temperatures on readings work like the north star 😁

Hi Lads. Think I found the culprit. Sat below the turbo (Very awkward to get the hands!) I did notice half the thread showing. not sure if it’s normal or it’s been replaced before, and done a half ass job in fastening it. The DPF inlet temperature was 999 celsius. So now i’m expecting a large amount of soot buildup. 🙄 ———— The black shade of the thread was showing , so now i’m wondering to save some £ or some elbow grease, would it not being screwed in fully have caused the error?