Bensupreme

I didn't get dust covers and rubbers when I bought the bilstein b12's but I didn't buy with strut mounts, got them under a different brand. Fortunately though my existing were in good nick so just kept them.

Merry Christmas! Having removed and cleaned one recently I really doubt it, considering what any additive would need to travel through to just reach it. Decent fuel and additives (aswell as making sure everything else managing fuel:air ratio is on point) could help prevent it I imagine but I'd only go that far.

Thanks @ApertureS, I've ordered them after @Breezy_Pete helped find them last night so i'll switch them over whilst looking for the issue. @Breezy_Pete, I tightened them as per the manual, 70nm torque plus 180 i think it was for the 4 main bolts. @ApertureS, I looked into the subframe fixing kit but couldn't find one to buy and seemed to simply locate 'fixed' positions on the assembly with 'fixed' positions on the chassis so felt more like it was just for making 'lining up' easier rather than actually preventing movement so I didn't bother. Mistake??? Thanks both.

@Breezy_Pete, you're the man, thank you! I'll check torques in the morning. Cheers.

Thanks @Breezy_Pete, that's the online catalog i mentioned above (I think i came across it in one of your previous posts actually?!), but for the life of me i cant find the parts, or assembly carrier, in it. I'm probably doing something wrong but I simply can't find it. Please do try and help me look daft! Thanks.

Thanks @StevesTruck - I can't find a parts # (found an online catalog but not these parts), frustrating eh! Ive tried VAGBolts too but again no joy. Any other tips would be great. Thanks.

Hi. I've taken my assembly carrier off to clean the dpf and getting some creaking noises when driving after refitting. Wondering now if should have replaced the screws as advised in the manual but I can't find where to buy them anywhere on the Web - If anyone can point me to a site that sells them please I'd be very grateful. I need screws 6, o an 10 in the attached image. Car has a CRLB engine, 2016 2.0l diesel. Thanks all.

Hi. I feel your pain. I'm experiencing the same thing with a CRLB engine, 2016 plate 2.0 diesel. Mines every 40 miles though and regularly lose power at high speeds during the regen, dropping to 50/60 mph and then bounces back to normal when the regen has finished. I've done all kinds of things to resolve it but with no codes I've been struggling for over a year now to sort it. Happy to share what I've done but nothings fixed it yet, although some things helped for a while.

Hi. I had the same a few years back. I took it to Skoda who didn't want to know, told me to simply pull off the interior panel and unscrew the whole unit. Doing this I was able to bypass the failed manual release by taking it to pieces. If i remember rightly the whole thing was solid metal but the release mechanism all relied on a small plastic runner which in my case had simply gone brittle and broken up, couldnt beleve it. Then with it all apart i installed a new latch. Hardest part of the job is getting access without destroying the interior panel, i only half destroyed it! I think a new latch cost me £60. Good luck.

Hi. Thanks for replying. I've no code for it but I'm sceptical about codes simply because I've been experiencing intermittent power loss at 60-70mph for over a year now without any codes (Skoda dealer nor VCDS showing them). I guess I'm hoping for confirmation about a 4th temp sensore without having to trust codes. Any ideas on how? Cheers.

Hi. As part of my neverending pursuit to find a cause of high speed torque loss (I'll share my woes on this one day!) I came across what could be an issue/cause but hoping you could all help me out please. I plugged my VCDS in to check EGT sensor temperatures and appear not to be getting a reading on sensor 4. Please see attached picture. I see online that not all engines have 4 sensors but the one that's usually missing is Sensor #2 rather than #4, and I'm sure my engine, the CRLB, is supposed to have 4. Can anyone confirm how many sensors there should be please and any info on why one would show as "--", what effect this could have etc. would be greatly appreciated!! Car is a 16 plate with CRLB engine. Many Thanks.

I assume the dashboard lit up? Interesting to know what codes you got though when the Turbo packed up?

Hi. I had mine off recently to troubleshoot an issue and fortunately the CRLB is kind - the EGR is reasonably easy to get to. Take your air inlet out all the way up to the Turbo and you'll find it round the back and to the side of the turbo. There's some YouTube videos you can check out but if not I'll send you more info. FYI - take your EGR off and it will rattle, sounds like a fault but it isn't, it just likes to rattle.

I like the way you got loads of stick for your crocs back then @johnny cabbage head but now all the "cool kids" are wearing them!

I had exactly that noise for years until my water pump packed up and got replaced. Since then it's gone. Not saying it's your water pump specifically, could be something else that was played with during its replacement (Inc. Cambelt) but that's what I experienced.

That's some crazy magic you must have! Good job.

I did the job a few weeks back and although fiddly it's doable in a couple of hours DIY (I'm no mechanic!). I managed to avoid removing the infotainment unit separately simply by unscrewing the 6 screws holding the unit to the dashboard and unclipping the wires in the back of it one at a time, just be careful not to drop the weight and note which go where. There's quite a few cables for lights etc to be mindful of. Removing the air bag cable will give you a fault code that can only be reset with vcds, a standard obd won't be enough. You'll access the heater matrix eventually, needs a little force to get the two pipes off it and then getting them back on the new one was a real b1tch. I used a little grease in the end. Pipes are very soft metal too so be careful not to damage. The clips too, don't damage them! Otherwise, it's dead easy, ha ha. Good luck!

Good news it's under warranty! Maybe have a chat with them about replacing the timing belt whilst they're at it, I can't recall the mileage on your car and they've recently relaxed the guidance on intervals but could be worthwhile.

I'd be surprised if you've had trouble with the Silica bag and condition of the coolant if your Heater Matrix isn't blocked. The pump you mention I'm not aware of but that could be an additional issue rather than the issue.

Shocker!

I don't think any test needed, reputation and loud squealing coming from the pump was enough I reckon.

Same thing happened to me when water pump went, lost a lot once, then virtually nothing for 3 weeks whilst I waited for it to get changed.

I bought what seems to be the same car albeit a 16 plate, in 2019 for £15k. Considering how used car prices seem to have risen since then it looks like a good deal to me. Get the water pump changed, remove the Silica bag and keep the dpf clean and based on my experience you'll have a decent car for plenty of years.

I second that @edwards, similar cost for me recently to get the water pump changed following a similar leak, although timing belt changed too whilst they were there.

If it's only a slight top up you need then distilled water should be fine, not likely to dilute it significantly. Buys you time to sort properly.