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farty

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Everything posted by farty

  1. The owner's manual should tell you. https://ws.skoda-auto.com/OwnersManualService/Data/en/Octavia_NX/07-2020/Manual/Octavia/A8_Octavia_OwnersManual.pdf What size is the engine? Petrol or diesel? https://applications.castrol.com/oilselector/en_gb/c/recommendation?vehicleType=cars&manufacturer=skoda&model=octavia-iii-5e-(2012-)&modelType=octavia-iii-1-5-tsi-(110-kw)-(2017-) It's odd that the manual says, "ask a specialist garage which oil to use!
  2. Please post a photo of both fuse boxes and someone with the same model can tell you which one is missing. There are always some vacant slots and if you put a fuse into one of these, the circuit it should have gone in now won't work
  3. What does the temperature gauge read? Does it move at all, does it go 'off the scale"?
  4. Original post or original poster - he who starrted the thread or the first post.
  5. Doesn't that give the garage an 'out'? I think OP should get the coolant leak fixed under warranty and then go elsewhere for the belt change.
  6. If you run out of coolant, a) the temperature gauge will drop and b) the engine will seize. That means you would needs new engine.
  7. It's obviously leaking when hot and pressurised. check all around the engine and underneath when the engine is fully warmed up and with the engine running. Could be a loose hose or a defective cap on the header tank. If not go to a local garage and ask them to do a pressure test. You may wreck the engine if you don't fix it soon.
  8. Very good !! I'm new around here. I am seeing that several people have updated their Octavia software but when I enter the chassis on the official website it tells me that I have no update. Somebody could help me? Pass a download link or something? I don't understand much about this topic. Skoda Octavia III 2.0 TDI 150cv 2013 Thank you very much
  9. This looks better, it has 507 approval on the can https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/264769387628 and its on the list of VAG oils £16 and free postage - how is it possible? http://atlanticlubes.com/en/product/atlantic-synthech-ultra-power-ll-iii-c3-sae-5w-30
  10. I don't see any VW approval on the can.....
  11. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/353151972673 is about £20 for 5L, delivered.
  12. So, a Tesco, Amazon or Halfords oil that meets VW 507 00 is probably just as good as a Castrol or Mobil equivalent? And could be almost identical?
  13. Here is a great resource on matters oily https://aamcouniversity.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/7/2019/09/LBT-299-PDF-Manual.pdf
  14. Thanks @Wino but I already have that list.
  15. Yes, I looked at dozens of 507 oils, at Graham's suggestion. They were all fully synthetic. Some oils are mealy-mouthed and use terms like synthetic technology or synthetic blend. I look for 'fully synthetic'. I think it is the DPF and ashing which forces the manufacturers to use fully synthetic oils.
  16. Mobil sent me this reply "The usage described (towing a caravan on a gradient) is quite more severe if compared to a normal usage condition, hence an increase of 20 C is reasonable. If occurring on a regular basis, such a temperature increase will accordingly contribute to an increase of the oxidation/degradation process of the product, hence the oil drain interval should be reduced. The car manual indicates what is the recommended oil drain interval referred to a normal usage of the vehicle; in some cases, it could also take into account an oil drain interval referred to more severe usage conditions.. but in case it doesn’t, if for example in normal conditions it is 15000 km / 2 years, we would suggest to lower it to 10000 km / 1 year." So my plan to keep to a limit of 120 is a good one. Skoda.cz told me they did not know, ask a dealer!
  17. Yes, I looked at dozens of 507 oils, at Graham's suggestion. They were all fully synthetic. Some oils are mealy-mouthed and use terms like synthetic technology or synthetic blend. I look for 'fully synthetic'. I think it is the DPF and ashing which forces the manufacturers to use fully synthetic oils.
  18. Why was it a pointless question? I don't know what oil you use?
  19. What's your car's make and model. There may be more than one fusebox. You may have put a fuse back in the wrong place. Not all locations will have a fuse in them.
  20. Check the connections onto the battery. Do you have a multimeter? Phone RAC or AA and they will help even you are not a member - you do have to sign up though!
  21. I got this reply from Castrol Technical Enquiries !Up to 120ºc shouldn’t be a problem for a modern synthetic oil occasionally so I would suggest no need for concern Just make sure the oil is at the correct level and changed on time should be fine" Lycoming say 245 is the max acceptable sump oil temperature and that is 118.3C A Ford 6.0L PowerStroke engine will, apparently, throw a DTC is the oil exceeds 240F (115.6C). https://www.thedieselstop.com/threads/6-0-max-engine-temp.45935/post-366983 I emailed Mobil but have yet to receive a reply.
  22. So when would YOU think it's too hot? And were you using a FULLY synthetic oil?
  23. Thanks, but the question asked on a caravan forum was 'how hot can the engine oil get before I should worry'. I said five to ten degrees more than average and definitely slow down if it approaches 120. So I had to find out where the temp was measured on a typical, modern engine. I came to this forum because it has a lot of experts and a rapid response.
  24. There is an oil cooler. Its a jacket around the oil filter and cooled by the engine coolant. But the issue is on a BMW on another forum.
  25. and then it might give an alarm?

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