farty

That size is not approved for his car; look at the photo he posted.

No, they are fitted to other cars. https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/tyres-advices/car-tyres-markings

Yes!

Thanks. I can see that the Contis are SportContact 5 92Y MO Extra Load and the Yokohamas are W.Drive 91H

There is a good fuel savings calculator (attatched) which suggests that changing from the least fuel-efficient tyres to the best, would only save about 7.5% on mpg. So 20% cannot be due to the tyre change alone. How did you measure mpg? Do you drive like a loony on dry, summer roads? fuel_savings_calculator_en.xls

I don't know. If you have both sets, could you photograph the markings? Or include the speed and load ratings as well? I will search on TyreReviews.co.uk and other websites where they measure rolling resistance. That will keep mr busy for a few hours Were the summers on alloy and the winters on steel wheels? Smaller wheels will have less mass and reduced gyroscopic forces but offset if different metal.

Thanks. Do you know which Contis and which Yokohamas they were? Tyre manufactures often make several ranges. Conti make Eco, Premium and Sport and versions 5 and 6 for summer tyres in that size. Yokohama make BlueEarth and W.Drive winter tyres in your size.

I would be very interested if you could post the exact make and size of both sets. A 16% improvement in mpg seems a lot. I will try and discover their rolling resistance. Were the tyre pressures changed?

I think we are at cross terms. If it fits on a standard backplate it's a programmer. Did it have timer settings? xxx

My first wife was in the building trade. Her tradesmen told me they were very unhappy if they were never offered a cuppa. In my experience, most tradesmen work hard and drink their tea as they work. I think they will do a better job if you treat them nicely. I can't remember now but the installation was included in the deal as I was an early adopter of the Hive. The gas fitter took endless trouble and some some problems with the wiring. This was odd as it was a modern house on an estate with bog-standard wiring. I paid £250 all-in.

The Hub and the receiver are separate items. You can not plug the receiver into your router. These are receivers; a two channel for a conventional boiler with HW and CH and a single channel for combis This is thr receiver which connects to your router. It sends radio signals to the receiver. The receiver operates the relays and stores the timer programming. See the Installation Guide I got British Gas to install mine and it took four hours - cost me £50!

The receiver does not need ethernet. And it gets its mains from where the programmer got it. The hub connects to your router or range extender. The thermostat is battery operated. Can be wall mounted or free standing.

The receiver goes where the programmer was. The stat, often in the hallway, is redundant. The hive hub is essential and I think you will need the Hue one too as they are not interoperable. But I don't have Hue. Just see what happens if you unplug the Hue hub after Hive has recognised the bulbs.

This suggest that wet braking might be really poor!

Just in front of the driver's right shin. It is easier to see if you are outside and bending down or kneeling.

You could use a split-core hall-effect current transducer to measure current. Then you just need a data-logger or multimeter with logging abilities. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/283216689221 There are many cheaper if you go for a lower current capacity.

Just format it as FAT32 in your computer or card reader. Then download the updates and unzip on your computer. then copy the MAPS folder to the SD Card.

I have a gadget that goes berween the USB socket an the phone. It measures the charging current. When I charge my ASUS laptop or Android phone (which both use USB to charge), I get a different charging rate with every combination of charger. My phone charges more quickly with the ASUS charger and my ASUS charges better with the phones charger. It'd definitely worth getting a cable with thicker wires and as short as practicable. USB ammeters are ten-a-penyy on Amazon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=usb+ammeter&s=price-asc-rank&qid=1603131707&tag=duc0c-21&ref=sr_st_price-asc-rank

Do you have any photos or records that might identify the make of both filters? I suspect that the filters are incorrect for your engine. It sounds to me as ifthe oil was flowing in the wrong direction. Most cannister filters flow from out to in. If the filter blocks, a bypass opens so that the engine gets oil, albeit unfiltered; for the cannister to collapse suggests it is under a vacuum.

I just wish my stop start wouldn't start the engine, at traffic lights, when I put the handbrake on and take my foot off the brake! I think the handbrake should be on when stationary and I don't want to dazzle the driver behind.

I would shop around some more. AGM stop start batteries are available at£150 or less and fitting should be about £15.

Can you expand on this? Is this accomplished via coding via the diagnostics port? Can VCDS do it? Thanks

There's no mention of this in my manual? Most garrages will connect a temporary 12v supply to the cables before disconnecting so nothing needs to be reset. On my Yeti, the windows and sunroof would need resetting but that's quite easy. But it does say the negative of the charger should not go on the negative battery terminal but to the 'earth point of the engine'. This is next to the fuse box in the engine bay. The reaason given is so that the sensor on the negative terminal is not bypassed. If bypassed it would not record accurate state of charge for the battery.

AutoBild, the German car magazine, did a very thorough test of screenwashes. One caused plastic headlamps to crack and craze. The Sonax products did best They used the amazing Sonax lab but the testers did not know which wash was being tested. I recommend the winter and summer versions. The Sonax 1:10 concentrate scored the highest at 2.2. https://www.autobild.de/artikel/scheibenreiniger-test-1227047.html and a more recent test https://www.autobild.de/artikel/scheibenreiniger-test-sommer-5801403.html#anchor_2

That's good advice. I washed my screen thoroughly before I used wire wool for that very reason. And I used a brand new brush because sponges can trap grit.