andreasw

I watched a video for another VAG car, I looked at the same spot where his cable had snapped and found it in the same place.

I didnt have any solder sleeves, so I used WAGO connectors just to see if this was the issue. When I first started the car the fans started blowing but they stopped shortly afterwards, then I cleared the fault codes and it seems to have fixed it. Dont know if it was because i replaced the sensor or connected the broken wire. I had to tug a little for it to break, but it was also badly corroded. So I guess it was totally separated. Lets see how long this "fix" lasts 😆

I found a broken wire. Is this the color for the sensor? Unfortunately I'm colourblind and have no chance to check what cable colour is at the sensor. I guess I could fix this and hope for the best.

Can this fault code be produced by any other sensor?

I've gotten the sensor out by draining fuel and a bit of fiddling. I've taken a resistance reading, the old one was ~2600ohm and the new one ~2200ohm. That sounds like it's within spec right?

I'm looking on Scout parts because of the added protection against gravel and paint chipping. Does the plastic protect or is it just "for show"?

I couldn't figure out the correct word for it when I wrote this thread, should be fender 👍

Hello! I was just wondering, if I buy a used front side panel with the scout plastic trim around the wheel arch, will it fit for a normal octavia?

I don't know if I touched the wires all the way back there. Anyway the light is on again, and so are the cooling fans. Well in this case even after removing the airbox it looks almost impossible to change it. There's a metal pipe that takes preheated air into the airbox that's really close to the sensor. Best way looks like draining coolant, remove the housing and change the sensor outside of the engine bay. I broke the tab on the connector to the sensor though... So maybe I'll put some glue or zip ties to hold it in place.

Has anyone changed this on a BMM engine? Seems like alot of hassle to change it without removing the housing. Theres too much stuff in the way to remove it without removing alooot of stuff. Since writing this thread, the engine check light turned off and the temperature sensor started working again. Is that possible with a faulty sensor? Or is it bad wiring?

Yeah if I leave it long enough. I did get close to 0 when I locked the car. I usually never lock my cars when they're at home.

Have you tried the simple "fix"? Disconnect battery for a couple of hours and plug it back in again after. This fixed all my problems.

Still working 🤘

5 hours after disconnecting the battery i now connected it and the car is mended fully. You were on the right track right from the start 👌 Hehe, the circumstances around this whole fault was pointing to some computer fault in my mind. Or that I shot a fuse somewhere. Its mended itself when battery was disconnected for 5 hours

No I have not. I found a polish forum, a guy with same problem as me. He got advices saying to leave the battery disconnected for a long period, min 30 min. Everything started to work after disconnecting for 3 hours and then plugging it in. They also wrote about the convenience module and that it might be connected with it. I'll try the easy thing tomorrow. Leaving it disconnected for a few hours Yeah none of the door modules can be communicated with. I think I can only see voltage

Hmm, now I've changed to a good battery. Now all modules is unresponsive again... I hate electric problems 🙄

I think it's standard that something will break. I broke a couple of plastic "plugs" yesterday when I removed the door card. They were extremely brittle. I also broke a pin for the electric window buttons. This i think is standard for older cars when the plastic becomes brittle.

Hello! I've been having issues with parasitic draw since I bought the car. I measured the voltage drop over the fuses and found that the radio and the fuse for the wiper/indicator stalk was using power when car was off. The indicator stalk was very erratic in its draw, often 0 but then it would go pretty high, then 0 again. The radio was drawing ~800-900mA. Is there a normal fault with the radio units to draw power when sleeping?

I got it from a website, didnt state anything about not sharing. Ofcourse, I can give you the website in PM if you want. Awaiting answer from MicMac.

The door control modules are getting their power from the electric windows fuses.

Good News everyone! The driver door and the rear left door is now working. And I found wiring diagram for the whole vehicle for free. I can post that as a PDF if you want. Well, I looked at the diagram and saw that FUSE 23 powers the left and right door control module. I look in the fusebox and what do I see? Theres no Fuse! I dont know If I have pulled this before while I was searching for the fault, but I cant remember if I did. All I can remember is I was focusing on fuse Nr12. Oh well, so I plug in a new fuse and try it out. It works! Dont know if its because I pulled the alarm cables or something else. I took the whole door cover off on the inside, took the cables out that connects through the chassis to the door, inspected them but didnt see any damage. Or, the alarm was installed in such a way that it supplied power to the doors. Oh well, Im happy that I now have everything working on the left side. Right side is still completely dead, and front doors share fuses with each other, same with the rear doors. So Its not a fuse problem at least. Now its time to check if the cables are okay inbetween the chassis and the doors on the right side. But first Ill swap my battery for a better one. Ill cross my fingers the same thing doesnt happen again 😛 Also, The OBDEleven was able to re-add all the door modules. Now I can contact front driver module, and rear left door module. The 4000 pages of wiring diagrams is 40MB Big. Is there any moderator I can send it to? So it can be stickied?

Im using a OBDEleven. It's been working very good during the time I've had it. I have no communication with the modules. Can't access them with any reader. I do have another reader. Maybe I'll give it a try to see if I can find anything else.

To their defense, they did at least solder all cables. But they've cut wrong cables and had to fix it multiple times. I knew there was something dodgy with this alarm 😅 Buuuut, I don't know if it affects what I'm trying to solve. I've removed the cables from what I think are the can high and low. No difference. It feels like it's a hidden fuse or something I can't find. I'll see if I can find the wire schematics and try to see if I get power to the module.

Should I laugh or cry? 😅

Will do tomorrow. I've seen a few cables that's been cut, for the alarm install. While im trying to fix this problem maybe it would be a good idea to disconnect the alarm altogether.