andreasw

I watched a video for another VAG car, I looked at the same spot where his cable had snapped and found it in the same place.

I didnt have any solder sleeves, so I used WAGO connectors just to see if this was the issue. When I first started the car the fans started blowing but they stopped shortly afterwards, then I cleared the fault codes and it seems to have fixed it. Dont know if it was because i replaced the sensor or connected the broken wire. I had to tug a little for it to break, but it was also badly corroded. So I guess it was totally separated. Lets see how long this "fix" lasts 😆

I found a broken wire. Is this the color for the sensor? Unfortunately I'm colourblind and have no chance to check what cable colour is at the sensor. I guess I could fix this and hope for the best.

Can this fault code be produced by any other sensor?

I've gotten the sensor out by draining fuel and a bit of fiddling. I've taken a resistance reading, the old one was ~2600ohm and the new one ~2200ohm. That sounds like it's within spec right?

I'm looking on Scout parts because of the added protection against gravel and paint chipping. Does the plastic protect or is it just "for show"?

I couldn't figure out the correct word for it when I wrote this thread, should be fender 👍

Hello! I was just wondering, if I buy a used front side panel with the scout plastic trim around the wheel arch, will it fit for a normal octavia?

I don't know if I touched the wires all the way back there. Anyway the light is on again, and so are the cooling fans. Well in this case even after removing the airbox it looks almost impossible to change it. There's a metal pipe that takes preheated air into the airbox that's really close to the sensor. Best way looks like draining coolant, remove the housing and change the sensor outside of the engine bay. I broke the tab on the connector to the sensor though... So maybe I'll put some glue or zip ties to hold it in place.

Has anyone changed this on a BMM engine? Seems like alot of hassle to change it without removing the housing. Theres too much stuff in the way to remove it without removing alooot of stuff. Since writing this thread, the engine check light turned off and the temperature sensor started working again. Is that possible with a faulty sensor? Or is it bad wiring?

Yeah if I leave it long enough. I did get close to 0 when I locked the car. I usually never lock my cars when they're at home.

Have you tried the simple "fix"? Disconnect battery for a couple of hours and plug it back in again after. This fixed all my problems.

Still working 🤘

5 hours after disconnecting the battery i now connected it and the car is mended fully. You were on the right track right from the start 👌 Hehe, the circumstances around this whole fault was pointing to some computer fault in my mind. Or that I shot a fuse somewhere. Its mended itself when battery was disconnected for 5 hours

No I have not. I found a polish forum, a guy with same problem as me. He got advices saying to leave the battery disconnected for a long period, min 30 min. Everything started to work after disconnecting for 3 hours and then plugging it in. They also wrote about the convenience module and that it might be connected with it. I'll try the easy thing tomorrow. Leaving it disconnected for a few hours Yeah none of the door modules can be communicated with. I think I can only see voltage