andreasw

I just thought of something, I also have a 3rd party car alarm installed by some previous owner. I have always hated it, and maybe it makes my problem worse now. Because its connected to central locking etc etc. Edit: Nice, its spliced in on the can-bus 😑

Yeah tell me about it. For older cars everything was described in the user manual. Nowadays they dont wanna tell you what oil to put in even. I like maintaining my own cars, I have some bad experience from leaving it to a mechanic shop. Too bad I started this hobby as an adult (20+). It would be better to have started when I was younger, when the learning curve was exponential... You dont have to say sorry, I read that tip of yours somewhere else a few days ago. I think forums are awesome! Alot of the time someone else has had the exact same problem, so you can spread the knowledge and help someone else. Its especially good for us non-mechanics Yeah I guess its plausible. Maybe a power "surge" melted the last copper strand that was attaching the cable or something...

I think I would need some kind of a dealership manual for diagnosing these cars. The user manual doesn't even tell you how to change the headlight bulb 🤣

I had a little sneek peek, I removed the rubber from the chassis of the car and checked the cable at the connectors. I have three connectors there. Everything looked fine the first few cms. Next step is to remove the inner door trim and see if I have any voltage to the unit. And check with my multimeter if I have continuity through the cables. I think its so strange that it only stopped working after I was fiddling with the battery. Never had problems with this before. The first battery I changed to might have had a little bit higher voltage (13ish) but it was dead, nothing happened when I turned the key, only alot of relay clicking.

Nothing happened. Although all the windows were already closed. But I noticed, when I lock with the key interior lights shuts down and the filler cap lid locks. When I open the interior lights start again and the filler cap lid unlocks. I can open the boot while holding the key on the remote. The lights dont work on the control panel on driver side, where you control the power windows etc etc. Does anyone know if there is a fuse for the control modules? Or is it shared with something else? Is there another place for fuses, glovebox? Inside the doors?

I have the option to add them back. But when I do they're just blacked out because theres no connection to it. And the symptoms was there before I checked it with OBDEleven. It will ask if I want to auto-code the gateway list and it hasnt failed before. I guess it disabled theese modules because there was no connection to them. I tried enabling them again but they stay unresponsive.

I tried this today and nothing changed. I also tried what I suggested. Could the front driver side door control module also make the other 4 non communicating? Doesnt feel likely that all 4 would just die after battery swap.

I just found this in my OBDEleven. Its been removed from Gateway Coding? How do I fix this? 😅

"Soft" reset? Maybe short negative and positive cable aswell? Without the battery in ofc.

Did you fix this problem? I have the same issue.

Hello! I have a weird problem. Since yesterday (when i changed battery) I cant lock my car, cant open the boot, cant use any electric windows etc etc. I scanned the car using OBDEleven and it says that it has no connection to either the driver side door control modul nor the passenger side. What could have caused this? I checked the fuse for the central locking system but that wasnt shot. Is there any other fuses I could check? Did I do something withe the cabling while reinstalling the battery? Many thanks! I tried using a "dead" battery in between the battery swap. I didnt know it was dead then, but it quickly showed when turning the starter key. Haha. Could this have "destroyed" the control modules?

Hello! I just unscrewed the oil filler cap during idle and noticed there was some pressure releasing when doing this. In all the cars i've had there was a slight suction when removing this. Although those cars where petrol cars. Is this normal for a diesel? Do I have a problem with my PCV system? I have a slightly rough idle and some engine shakes.

Was there a conclusion reached here? I just popped my oil filler cap and it was alot of pressure. I've tinkered with the PCV system om some gasoline cars and there it should be a slight suction at the oil filler cap. But now this is a diesel, maybe theres too much compression/blow by in a diesel to get a vaccum at the cap? Is there a definite answer for this? 😅

Thanks for the part numbers! This placement is really annoying. Very limited space. I dont think I will be able to get it out without disconnecting some of the water hoses. How is this procedure supposed to be done on this BMM engine? There is a hard plastic housing in the vicinity of the sensor. I guess its a gasket between the engine and this? It would be much easier to replace if I remove this. But I might get away with just disconnecting the house above the sensor. How have you done this procedure, need a little help 😅

Thanks for the help. Do you also have the part number for Cambelt Replacement Kit? And Water pump? 😊

Below the Diesel pump? Thanks for the clarifying picture.

I think its the magnetic clutch that makes that noise. Works fine though

Hello! I have a fault code for my coolant temperature sensor p0118. From what i've read it seems to be a normal fault to become faulty. Now to my problem, where the heck is it? I uploaded a picture of the engine, and another picture where I think it might be. But nothing happened when I disconnected this one. I found the intake sensor, and the temperature skyrocketed when the sensor was out.

Its not the AC pump thats making the noise? I get a odd noise but it disappears when i shut off the AC.

Shoudlt the coils rest more on the contours of the "bowl"?

Thanks for the response. I think this looks very strange. Do I have the wrong coils? I never thought about this when I did the other side.

Hello! Im changing the front springs on my Octavia - 07. Theres a tab on the spring seat, should this align with the guide of the spring strut at the bottom? That goes in the wheel hub? Dont know if I got all the words right. I dont even know the correct terms in my main language 😅 I uploaded a picture of this procedure on a Volvo V50. And another thing, how the heck do you know what is up and what is down?

I can give an update on this, a new battery didnt fix the problem. But starting the car and quickly turn it off again, and then start it seems to work.

Okay, sometimes it changes gear just fine. Heh you beat me to it. I just found it too.

Good question, let me see if I can find a post I did about it. I put the car in level and filled a specific amount. Didnt check the level plug afterwards.