NigelC95

I have destroyed one boot, and split the other three, so I now have four good OE coils without boots. I did however get four new coils (Bosch) prior to attacking the job, as from my initial attempt, I knew at least one boot was going to be destroyed. If I suffer coil failure in the future, I have four spares. Someone will have to clear them from my garage when I die, along with lots of other assorted stuff.

The boot has a VW part number moulded in, which is: 04C 905 199 C. A Google search finds an OE replacement at around £23, and Autodoc offering several, ranging from £11 to £19. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/hitachi/18496016#plug-coil So it looks like we can have replacements, once we've destroyed existing removing them, but at around half the cost of a new coil each, plus Autodoc's delivery charge of £8.45, so £50 for a set. Autodoc takes a week to deliver, so definitely not an emergency purchase. I've got presumably four years to decide whether to buy a set, ready for the next plug change.

I attacked them today, and got them all off, plugs changed, new coils fitted, all working well. Cyl 3 was the easiest for access, so attacked first. Rubber boot was stuck tight, and just stretched. Tried compressed air, no joy. So just severed the boot with a sharp knife. That left me with about a centimetre of boot above the plug top. Filled the centre with WD40, then slid a pick down between the boot and plug, working my way around. Still stuck. Got the fatter, long pick, and pushed that down, all around. Suddenly it let go, and the remaining boot could be twisted and lifted. Absolutely no trace of silicone grease on boot or plug. As these were the original coils, and the plugs have been changed just once before, it appears that they were not just fitted without grease, but probably wiped clean. This being a Skoda specialist, that used to be a dealer. No point shaming them, owners retired, garage shut. Having got the first one out, it was apparent that the coil can be separated from the boot. For the rest, I gently levered the boot off the coil, leaving just the boots in the head. That gave a larger reservoir for WD40, which may have helped, or just made more mess. Long-nosed pliers pulled the springs gently out. Then large pick pushed gently in, all around to separate boot from plugs. Took a lot of time, but at last all four removed. All clean of grease as the first one. All boots damaged by the pick, as there is little control over it, so scrap anyway. They show a VW part number, I'll research tomorrow to see if new boots are available without coils. Plugs came out ok, a bit tight, but the new ones went in fine, so no thread damage to head. New coils, properly greased, all back together and running well. Took about 3 hours, for what should have been 30 minutes. This is a job for taller mechanics. Knees pressed against the bumper, leaning over and stretching a little, is not comfortable. I now ache across the shoulders, my neck, and the backs of my knees. Happy days.

Thanks again. The vid seemed to make it look harder than it is, but at least for him the coils popped off. If only mine would. Not sure why he put some grease on the end face, it is supposed to be inside where the rubber snout grips the plug body. Getting it hot, then wriggling them seems a good idea, I'll have a go tomorrow. If that does not work, I'll let it cool a fair bit, then try the compressed air. Cold air into a hot aperture might not be clever. Not sure how WD40/GT85 will get under the coil snout, likely to just make a mess. If none of this works, I'll attack with a scalpel, destroy the coil snouts, and bite the bullet with new ones.

Thanks guys for the responses so far. I have the coil puller tool, and th e coils lift out of the cam cover easily, however, the rubber boots are firmly stuck to the plugs. All I'm doing is stretching the boots, which of course, tightens their grip. No success getting anythign down to the bottom of the boot to lift it from its lower edge either. Despite the stretching, no misfires, but it looks like I will have to destroy the coils to get them out.

That doesn't look anything to be worried about, unless your engine seems to use oil, or more than it should. It could be a residue of something the last person put on the threads to ease later removal, copper grease does break down a little like this. There only seems to be three, so I'm guessing a 1.0 engine. I have the 1.2 4cyl, and cannot get the coils to let go of the plugs. Did yours come off easily, or was there a struggle? Any tips for getting the coils off? Thanks.

My brother has a Mk1 Fabia, 2002, 1.4 Auto, estate. Battery needs replacing, but we're struggling to identify the correct one. Euro and Halfords list an 063 40Ah This seems a little low, its less that that fitted to my 1.2 Panda. Tayna list an 027 60Ah Currently fitted is an RAC001 52Ah, so half-way between. Does anyone have details of the correct original fitment, and does the Auto need a greater capacity? Thanks

Sorry, bit late to the party here, but here is my limited experience of the MPi. When my 1.2 TSi was being serviced last year, I was lent a 1.0MPi as a courtesy car. Without a turbo, it is very frustrating. Before it warms up, performance is very sluggish, it seems to be deliberately restricted, as once warm, performance is noticeably better. It does need working to make it move along adequately, and will never be quick. I was glad to give it back. I also own a 2006 Fiat Panda 1.2, rated at 60hp. This seems to have better performance than the 1.0Mpi. My advice, go for the turbo unit.

Thanks anyway. No need to go out in the cold and dark. Thanks. Just the way it came out of the page at me. No worries. I'm happy to make the screen people and the insurance company squirm.

Does the original clip work with the new screen? Do you know the screen manufacturer? Would be good to know if it fits properly, thanks.

It is not a perfectly good screen, as it does not fit like the original. All the work has been done at my home, so no time 'returning' it anywhere. You may be happy with trying to modify the clip, but that is your perogative. I see no reason why I should have to modify part of the vehicle to accommodate a poorly fitting replacement part. You are suggesting heating the clip with a hot air gun, or boiling water, but do not state whether you have done this. The type of plastic will determine if this is possible, and I see no reason to experiment with it. Heat may help change its shape, but it may then lose its elasticity, rendering it useless anyway. No reason for me to work to rectify a problem created by them. Why the aggressive tone? Did my query offend you in some way? Try to be civil. Auto Windscreens were contracted by my insurer. Having paid the insurance excess, and of course th epremium in the first place, I am entitled to have the car returned to original condition, which currently it is not. There should be no reason to lose a feature of the car. I don't care whether Auto Windscreens replace it, or the insurer pays. Auto Windscreens do not seem to understand the issue. My attempt to contact Pilkington was to get their view on it, to see if they kney their screen was inadequate, or if this was a misshape. That appears to be impossible, but with another post with a similar issue, it seems they have made their screens not a perfect copy.

The original clip is still intact, so no reason to replace. Certainly no reason for me to buy one, as it was fine before the screen was replaced. It is an L shape, held onto the pillar by a plastic stud, but there is no adjustment of it. Only answer in my mind is the screen is different, possibly a deeper curve taking it away from the clip. If this is the case, the screen is not suitable, and will need to be replaced with OE. Thanks for that reply, helps me regain my sanity. I guess this is the situation with many owners, as Auto Windscreens state they've never had a similar problem. Seems impossible to contact Pilkington, as their website gives no contact specifically for automotive screens, apart from classic ones. The website contact form goes to architectural, who have no way of forwarding it to anyone in automotive. A company that hides is not worth my custom. I've asked Skoda UK if they've had similar problems.

Had a car cut in sharp, and throw a stone at the screen, chip, then a crack. The windscreen was replaced, but now the ticket clip no longer presses against the screen. Fitter initially tried to bend the clip, then reposition it, without change. Then removed screen, and refitted with less sealant, to move screen closer to the car body. Clip is now closer, but still no pressure on screen ,so will not hold a car park ticket. Windscreen company now say I have to buy a new clip, as it has probably lost tension over time. I'm doubting this, as it was fine the day before the screen was replaced. Theory. I wonder if the screen is a different profile, so the curve takes it further away from the clip. There must be something different about it. Screen is a Pilkington. Has anyone else had a similar problem, and was it resolved?

Like a lot of manufacturers, standard is a pot of sealant and a pump. If when new, a spare is ordered, it will be the standard steel wheel of the base model, which is what the OP has got. My 2015 SE originally had alloys, but these were the same size as the steels used on the S. I bought it used, and the dealer was happy to swap my alloys for steels from an S, as this makes more sense for me using it as a learner car. I then got a spare steel of the same size. Some cars have 'space saver' spares, others have, like us, the standard steel from the base car. Whichever any car has, if it is not the same size as the others it is legally classified as a space saver, and is restricted in the EU & UK to 80kph/50mph.

This is an issue with other makes too. Fiat/Chrysler have already locked some Fiat, Alfa and Jeep models, and more will follow. There are two reasons for this I believe. 1. To counter the immobiliser by-pass tools that allow theft of the vehicle by plugging into the OBD port. 2. To keep vehicles in the dealer network. Dealers have to invest a lot into a franchise, and with reliability improving and servicing intervals stretching, they have less work for their workshops, and lower parts sales. Keeping the cars in the dealer network improve dealer viability. However, older vehicles are not always welcome in dealers workshops, and if these are to be maintained, access to the diagnostics will be needed by independents, marque specialists and occasionally owners. If manufacturers don't allow some access method, probably by fee or subscription, older vehicles will lose value quickly, which will hurt future sales. Hopefully, independent data suppliers and diagnostic suppliers like OBDEleven and VCDS will be able to gain some access rights, maybe for all, or perhaps only after they reach a certain age. Sadly, EU OBD rules only insisted that powertrain data was available to all, so that should continue for fault readings, but service resets and other systems, like ABS and aircon may remain as locked or 'pay-per-view'.

Thanks for that. I hadn't heard of Carista, so have now had a look. I don't think I can justify the subscription right now, as OBDEleven does all I currently need. An expensive way to put the rear lights on with the DRLs, unless I need other benefits.

I found the Scandinavian lights option for my 2015 Fabia and liked the idea of the rear lamps being on too. However, activatiing this option leaves teh DRLs on at all times, including when the sidelamps (parking lamps) or headlamps are turned on. As I understand it, legislation dictates that the DRLs should either extinguish or dim when the headlamps are on. The choice can be that they turn off, to be replaced by the sidelamps, or dim to that lower brightness level. Leaving the DRLs on with the headlamps is therefore an offence, and could bring a risk of fines or just inconvenience if spotted by a clued-up and pedantic police officer. (You'd have to assess that risk level yourself.) As a driving instructor, i cannot take that risk at all. The legislation around DRLs was, in my view, created by bureaucrats in Brussels, tasked with harmonising rules across the EU, without understanding them. DRLs were created in Scandinavia to ensure vehicles were lit at night, to compensate for inebriated drivers meeting inebrated pedestrians, and have been successful in reducing injury and death in those circumstances. The argument for the rest of Europe is less valuable, but they do show a potentially moving vehicle. In Scandinavia, they illuminated brighter front lights and the standard rear lamps. When the EU rules appeared they seem to have missed the rear lamps. However, running with rear lamps as well is not an offence.