NigelC95

My brother has a Mk1 Fabia, 2002, 1.4 Auto, estate. Battery needs replacing, but we're struggling to identify the correct one. Euro and Halfords list an 063 40Ah This seems a little low, its less that that fitted to my 1.2 Panda. Tayna list an 027 60Ah Currently fitted is an RAC001 52Ah, so half-way between. Does anyone have details of the correct original fitment, and does the Auto need a greater capacity? Thanks

Sorry, bit late to the party here, but here is my limited experience of the MPi. When my 1.2 TSi was being serviced last year, I was lent a 1.0MPi as a courtesy car. Without a turbo, it is very frustrating. Before it warms up, performance is very sluggish, it seems to be deliberately restricted, as once warm, performance is noticeably better. It does need working to make it move along adequately, and will never be quick. I was glad to give it back. I also own a 2006 Fiat Panda 1.2, rated at 60hp. This seems to have better performance than the 1.0Mpi. My advice, go for the turbo unit.

Thanks anyway. No need to go out in the cold and dark. Thanks. Just the way it came out of the page at me. No worries. I'm happy to make the screen people and the insurance company squirm.

Does the original clip work with the new screen? Do you know the screen manufacturer? Would be good to know if it fits properly, thanks.

It is not a perfectly good screen, as it does not fit like the original. All the work has been done at my home, so no time 'returning' it anywhere. You may be happy with trying to modify the clip, but that is your perogative. I see no reason why I should have to modify part of the vehicle to accommodate a poorly fitting replacement part. You are suggesting heating the clip with a hot air gun, or boiling water, but do not state whether you have done this. The type of plastic will determine if this is possible, and I see no reason to experiment with it. Heat may help change its shape, but it may then lose its elasticity, rendering it useless anyway. No reason for me to work to rectify a problem created by them. Why the aggressive tone? Did my query offend you in some way? Try to be civil. Auto Windscreens were contracted by my insurer. Having paid the insurance excess, and of course th epremium in the first place, I am entitled to have the car returned to original condition, which currently it is not. There should be no reason to lose a feature of the car. I don't care whether Auto Windscreens replace it, or the insurer pays. Auto Windscreens do not seem to understand the issue. My attempt to contact Pilkington was to get their view on it, to see if they kney their screen was inadequate, or if this was a misshape. That appears to be impossible, but with another post with a similar issue, it seems they have made their screens not a perfect copy.

The original clip is still intact, so no reason to replace. Certainly no reason for me to buy one, as it was fine before the screen was replaced. It is an L shape, held onto the pillar by a plastic stud, but there is no adjustment of it. Only answer in my mind is the screen is different, possibly a deeper curve taking it away from the clip. If this is the case, the screen is not suitable, and will need to be replaced with OE. Thanks for that reply, helps me regain my sanity. I guess this is the situation with many owners, as Auto Windscreens state they've never had a similar problem. Seems impossible to contact Pilkington, as their website gives no contact specifically for automotive screens, apart from classic ones. The website contact form goes to architectural, who have no way of forwarding it to anyone in automotive. A company that hides is not worth my custom. I've asked Skoda UK if they've had similar problems.

Had a car cut in sharp, and throw a stone at the screen, chip, then a crack. The windscreen was replaced, but now the ticket clip no longer presses against the screen. Fitter initially tried to bend the clip, then reposition it, without change. Then removed screen, and refitted with less sealant, to move screen closer to the car body. Clip is now closer, but still no pressure on screen ,so will not hold a car park ticket. Windscreen company now say I have to buy a new clip, as it has probably lost tension over time. I'm doubting this, as it was fine the day before the screen was replaced. Theory. I wonder if the screen is a different profile, so the curve takes it further away from the clip. There must be something different about it. Screen is a Pilkington. Has anyone else had a similar problem, and was it resolved?

Like a lot of manufacturers, standard is a pot of sealant and a pump. If when new, a spare is ordered, it will be the standard steel wheel of the base model, which is what the OP has got. My 2015 SE originally had alloys, but these were the same size as the steels used on the S. I bought it used, and the dealer was happy to swap my alloys for steels from an S, as this makes more sense for me using it as a learner car. I then got a spare steel of the same size. Some cars have 'space saver' spares, others have, like us, the standard steel from the base car. Whichever any car has, if it is not the same size as the others it is legally classified as a space saver, and is restricted in the EU & UK to 80kph/50mph.

This is an issue with other makes too. Fiat/Chrysler have already locked some Fiat, Alfa and Jeep models, and more will follow. There are two reasons for this I believe. 1. To counter the immobiliser by-pass tools that allow theft of the vehicle by plugging into the OBD port. 2. To keep vehicles in the dealer network. Dealers have to invest a lot into a franchise, and with reliability improving and servicing intervals stretching, they have less work for their workshops, and lower parts sales. Keeping the cars in the dealer network improve dealer viability. However, older vehicles are not always welcome in dealers workshops, and if these are to be maintained, access to the diagnostics will be needed by independents, marque specialists and occasionally owners. If manufacturers don't allow some access method, probably by fee or subscription, older vehicles will lose value quickly, which will hurt future sales. Hopefully, independent data suppliers and diagnostic suppliers like OBDEleven and VCDS will be able to gain some access rights, maybe for all, or perhaps only after they reach a certain age. Sadly, EU OBD rules only insisted that powertrain data was available to all, so that should continue for fault readings, but service resets and other systems, like ABS and aircon may remain as locked or 'pay-per-view'.

Thanks for that. I hadn't heard of Carista, so have now had a look. I don't think I can justify the subscription right now, as OBDEleven does all I currently need. An expensive way to put the rear lights on with the DRLs, unless I need other benefits.

I found the Scandinavian lights option for my 2015 Fabia and liked the idea of the rear lamps being on too. However, activatiing this option leaves teh DRLs on at all times, including when the sidelamps (parking lamps) or headlamps are turned on. As I understand it, legislation dictates that the DRLs should either extinguish or dim when the headlamps are on. The choice can be that they turn off, to be replaced by the sidelamps, or dim to that lower brightness level. Leaving the DRLs on with the headlamps is therefore an offence, and could bring a risk of fines or just inconvenience if spotted by a clued-up and pedantic police officer. (You'd have to assess that risk level yourself.) As a driving instructor, i cannot take that risk at all. The legislation around DRLs was, in my view, created by bureaucrats in Brussels, tasked with harmonising rules across the EU, without understanding them. DRLs were created in Scandinavia to ensure vehicles were lit at night, to compensate for inebriated drivers meeting inebrated pedestrians, and have been successful in reducing injury and death in those circumstances. The argument for the rest of Europe is less valuable, but they do show a potentially moving vehicle. In Scandinavia, they illuminated brighter front lights and the standard rear lamps. When the EU rules appeared they seem to have missed the rear lamps. However, running with rear lamps as well is not an offence.

The caliper slider pins should use a special grease, but this is usually only available in large quantities. The ceramic grease, as mentioned is ok for this application. Ceratec is a brand name from TMD Friction, a good braking brand, and sold under three brands, available from your local Euro Crap Parts. Copper-based grease is not a lubricant. It is not really a grease, but inappropriately called that due to its consistency, it is just an anti-seize compound, great for nuts and bolts. (Should never be used on gearbox input splines where the clutch plate sits, it will fly off and contaminate the clutch linings causing judder) The brake pad specification arrived at by the vehicle manufacturer is a good compromise for general use. Aftermarket replacements should, by EU law, provide similar performance within a narrow margin. 'Performance' pads will move the operating range. Many will need to get warm before they work properly, great for long high-speed runs, occasional track use, etc., but possibly frightening or dangerous on the daily commute, where the delay in feeling any significant braking effort may be more than the space allows. Be careful how you choose. If you feel there is a performance issue with your brakes, ensure everything is operating as intended before 'upgrading' pads. If anyone feels they are often needing more braking performance than available, some advanced driver training might be a better answer. The EBC colours denote performance criteria and intended use. Their website should explain. Personally, I'm happy with Pagid (TMD), Mintex (TMD again), Ferodo, or Brembo.

Brilliant. Just got a new Xperia XA2, and could not get call list or contacts to transfer to the car. Followed the trick above to become a 'developer', and changed the Bluetooth down from version 1.4 to 1.3. Now have contacts and call log. Thanks.

Thanks for the reply. I had seen this vid, but it is of a vehicle with foglamps. These are easier, as the small grille piece appears to pull out more easily, then the foglamp unbolts and access is gained. (The poor toolkit made me cringe) I have achieved mine, will check in a minute whether I described it in my own thread. The outer bumper insert does just 'pull out' of the bumper, although it will fight. Much easier if you can also push from behind, which means removing the wheelarch liner, which I did. I have one wheelarch liner holding screw left over, can't find its location, so will have to have another look sometime when the weather is warmer and drier.

The Ross-Tech website does not specifically list any Skoda models. There is a downloadable compatibility list, but that seems to stop at 2014. I'm guessing this is just a website update issue, busy with better tasks. Can someone confirm that the latest package from Gendan will cover Fabia III? Thanks On another note, has anyone any experience or knowledge of MaxiECU software?

I have a similar thread, posted recently. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/463343-lower-grille-removal/?tab=comments#comment-5201329 This might be the answer. Seems we have to prise it out carefully, best on a warm day. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/387049-fabia-iii-front-grill-removal/

Recently bought a Fabia3 and the horn is rather weak. I intend to upgrade it to a twin horn. I understand the horn is located behind the lower grille of the bumper, at the LH side for single horns. Does anyone know how to remove the lower grille from the bumper without breaking it? Do I just pry it out around the top and bottom, or do I have to remove the bumper? The workshop manual just says it is clipped to the bumper, but fails to mention whether this is from the front or behind. Cars with foglamps are easier as the foglamp removal is detailed well.

Just registered. Recently bought my first Skoda, although I have driven many and other VAG vehicles and appreciate their build quality. Fabia 3, SE 1.2 TSi, 2015 with 18k miles. I'm a Driving Instructor and Fleet Driver Trainer, mostly working with company car drivers and van drivers up to 3.5t. I still do a few learners. The Fabia will be a working car, and is fitted with dual controls. Loving it so far, although the horn is a bit pathetic. I was hoping the fuel consumption would be no worse than the Fiesta it replaces, and am pleasantly surprised that it is significantly better. It's all win. I worked in the motor trade for 11 years, then 16 years allied to it in a major car parts company.