Cap44

As Ecomatt says, Change the filter & look for metal in the bowl, If clear get the actual fuel pressure checked. Any Competent diesel guy can do that even in Kerry !!! I used to live in Derry nane on The Ring

It was the passenger side I stripped only last week .

Lots of video's on U-tube. My 14 reg mk111 has no screws to undo. Under the rubber plug you have to fit a small screw driver with the end bent at a right angle facing away from the door edge. A sharp tug and the holding slide dis engaged allowing the knob and surrounding plastic to come free. So simple really but without the video I would have never found out how to do it

If I get 2 doors from a breaker's would there be any problem just changing the door shells & fitting all the locks, motors ect ect over into the new {s/H} door shell. or if they come compleat just plug in the wiring. What im asking will I come across any coding problems and which is the easy way to avoid any such problems using S/H doors. Cheers for any advice

Before I decided on my VRS I jumped into a friends to try one out. Nice car I said just replace the front off side wheel bearing. How can you tell that's gone just from driving it? Easy it gets louder on left hand bends as more weight goes on it, jacked it up and there was play in it.

I had a Turbo 5 for a weekend once & it ****ed down the whole time. Very entertaining drive !! My son has a BBR MX5 with the 210HP set up. Quite boring really But then Ive got 220HP Lotus 7 that weights in at 515kg

Ah The MG Maestro. I had a customer bring a brand new one in. He said there's a noise under the bonnet after I park it? A quick look showed that there was a small fan & some awful ducting to cool down the Weber carbs to stop the petrol boiling away with the latent heat. When does it stop he asked when its cool enough I replied I think. He Rang up the next day " It stopped when the battery was flat" He had it 1 day then dumped it on the main dealers forecourt. Only 1 I ever saw with carbs, All the rest were injection and they went very very well. Apart from the voice synthesiser

I had 1 of those come with a noise like a farting. It was a spilt in the vacuum hose to the wastegate so it got full uncontrolled turbo boost. The wheel spin & tramping was unbelievable . Re the comments on belts breaking just after being replaced. Just how many are those due to **** mechanic's not knowing what they are doing, I speak after near 60 years in the motor trade

They copied Saab from about 15 years before

I had this on my 2-00 VRS tdi. MK 111 Light came on & into limp mode on a motorway trip. Pulled over at the services and restarted after 5 mins then fine for another 20 miles. It must have done it 10 times in 150 miles . I got a reader and it gave over/under boost codes but cant remember the codes now. Anyway the actuator is/was working fine but the turbo vanes are sticking. If you want to cure the sticking vanes yourselves you need a clawsfoot spanner & a can off Mr Muscle oven cleaner and 6" of copper brake pipe. Take out the top sensor in the Turbo outlet, bend the cooper pipe into a ? mark shape and feed it into the top off the turbo housing ' You now need the valve from a WD40 can, the 1 with a 6" tube on it fitted on the Mr Muscle can. Put the tube into the copper pipe and give it around a 5 sec's blast. Do it when its hot and leave overnight. When you 1st do it you will see the foam in the bottom of the turbo housing. I always leave it soaking overnight before starting the engine as then its turned into liquid. You know when its working as after around 10 nights you can get 10secs into it and not see any foam in the turbo. I got it down to 4mins to get the sensor out and give it a blast. You dont even have to take the engine cover off. I had it first happen at around 106K its now on 112K and running fine. I was going to take the turbo off for an exchange unit until I got underneath it !!!!

I took my sender/pump unit out last week to drain the tank {don't ask) and it took forever for the gauge to drop down. Do not know why but it always seem to respond correctly when filling. No help to you but I will be watching tomorrow when I brim it.

Lots of kits on the market but Mr Muscle is as good as anything & at £5 is better than most. Did you drop the subframe ect ect to get it out???

Sorry Johnny says on the box 6000K. What ever they are they are about 50% better than the Philips candles I took out. Even the G/F Focus had better lights than the VRS before I changed the bulbs . No brainer for £13.79 posted

Mine (TDi) is not spring loaded & is electric only. You cannot tell if the vanes move freely as the actuator only allows the vanes to move. The vanes stick on the locating pins due to carbon build up. If your getting over/under boost read my fix from last week

125009982430 now £13-79 for 2 bulbs Autopark

Its going to be impossible to stop water getting past the front section off the roof as its a sliding fit. That's why the drains are there. if the drains are not coping with the water then IT WILL LEAK end off. Their is enough information on how to clean out the pipes including my little bit on this thead & a lot more on U-tube. Checked mine today after reading this, 2years since I cleaned them out (15mins) and still fine now & that's in Snowdonia

Im a cheap skate Just fitted these from Autopark Xenon Bulbs 16,50 the pair & 3 year guarantee. And a very notable difference from the old ones

Cheers JR I have a great 20 year old SLR camera but never seem to have the time to download pics, same as my phone no apps ect I just use it to talk to people. Old dog & new tricks ect

Early this year my TDi became undrivable on a motorway 200 mile trip. Constantly going into limp mode requiring a switch off to reset it. 2 tins of winns cured it for 4000miles but the writing was on the wall. I had a good look underneath but was put off with removing the subframe ect ect. The fact that the best part of a £1000 for parts was also a damper. + at 77 ive spent to much time on my back under cars 2 weeks ago it became undrivable again so after looking at all the video's re cleaning turbos I set to work. I removed the top most sensor next to the turbo outlet, I then made a ? mark shaped piece of small brake pipe that would go into the sensor hole and can be fed into the top off the turbo housing. Once in place I used the tube off a can of WD40 compleat with nozzle fitted on top of a can of Mr Muscle to spray the oven cleaner directly into the top of the turbo housing. I did this with the turbo hot for 5 secs the 1st time and the form came out the hole. Then gave it some more over night. It cured it after completely after 2 nights. I have continued this treatment over the Xmas break Always taking it for a 25mile drive after leaving it soaking in overnight. It must have moved lots of carbon as 5 secs blast was enough to see the foam coming out of the sensor hole the 1st time.. Tonight I gave it 10 secs and the only foam I saw was on the end of the copper pipe when I removed it. So it seems that if you leave it over night in a hot turbo the foam turns to liquid them evaporates out of the sensor hole. Ive done 300 miles on short trips + a150 mile motorway trip today without hitch, + its doing 51mpg at 75 mph its never ever been that good. So under £5 for Mr Muscle and I can remove the sensor in under 3 minutes without taking the engine cover off means its a no brainer.

Ive never had a leak yet & it lives in Wales 3 miles from the summit of Snowdon. When I 1st had it at 87K 2 years back I had a look at the drains and filled them up with water to check where it came out. I was not impressed with the speed that the water was draining so I used the outer cable off an old bike brake cable fed it down the tube's while it was connected to a compressor with a SMALL amount of positive air going down the tube. Got at lease 50% more water going down after that. And the sunroof side seals need a very special type of lubrication that is VERY expansive. Look on VW golf sites for that & where to get it on E-Bay

Ha Ha I meant the original poster. Merry Xmas

Top advice there, Where in North Wales are you?

Mine look "cloudy" just like that. Just put new bulbs in & its a lot better but will take them out & clean them what did you use? I have used 3M headlight polisher to remove the old yellowing lacquer from the plastic covers with good results.

YES I remember my old Sierra XR 4X4 That Torsan diff used to come in use as you was getting worried about understeer you could feel the centre diff come in and pull the front around. At the time it was a choice between the Audi or Sierra. That lump off metal sticking out in front of the front wheels on the Audi meant it was always going to struggle. No contest after trying both. The Sierra won hands down & had done 227K mile when some ****er coming the other way took the offside front wheel off. Best and fastest car ive ever had on the wet twisties with good tyres & decent seats

Hi nta 16 I tried to send you a mail but it got returned, try me on [email protected] Please