Cap44

Cant fault it in any way. That having sent back 3 **** ones from e-bay all around £100+ with 50% led's out cracked lens's, mounting tangs snapped.

Ultimate Components on E-Bay. £150 next day delivery. That was for the LED version that will cost you £100+ for S/H crap on e-bay

Put your hand down below the turbo, it has a steel tube covering the wires as they leave the sensor to soak up the heat i think. Its the only 1 down there that you can reach by hand that face's up to the scuttle

Lots of videos o U_Tue+ o replacing the gear lever detect switch o the top of the gear change linkage. took i 2 hours & £65 Also ECU repair company will rebuild your mechatronic unit via post Sorry about grammar lost some keys o the laptop

Thanks Crash0090. Lots of usefull information there. I think the controller in my lights are clipped into the side off the headlight, Will know when ive got it all apart. Thanks again

Hi all looks like I will have to drop the front bumper to get the headlight out. Can anyone tell me which bulb I will need for the long strip light in the bottom of the headlight unit? Thanks for any info.

Check that you have the same temp coming out of the 4 vents on the dash. If not you have a blocked heater matrix that will cause all sorts of problems with the flow to other things while doing regenerations. Lots of information on TDi club including dealer's who have changed head gaskets, inlet manifolds charging £1k's at a time and not curing the problem. All it needs is a £80 matrix and 2 hours labour if you do it yourself.

lots of videos on you tube, just drop the heater motor & slide it out. Make an open tube to funnel the water into a container to save soaking the carpets

E-Bay is your friend on this at £60 each or £130 for the LED ones,

Be careful there are led ones and normal ones. Led ones have 3 bulb's normal have 6 bulbs. Thats on a 14 estate.

Its a exhaust box. Find your local exhaust guy. I had a compleat exhaust made for my 7 from the manifold back for £150 in stainless while I waited. That was on Anglesey right in the sticks,

My 178 VRS estate has all the grip I will ever need if its dry. And my other cars include an Elise, Lotus 7 & 205 GTi. Something is wrong with yours so would benefit from a good set up

Ive done it . Take the 1st sensor out, you need a bit of old brake pipe & shape it like a coat hanger, feed it into the turbo main body. Take a WD40 valve and small pipe and fit to a Mr Muscle aerosol, feed it into the pipe and give it 5 sec shot. You will see the foam reach the sensor hole after 5 sec. I did it when hot and left it overnight, Did it for about 10 nights and it made a difference in that after the 4th time you could not see any foam at the base of the sensor hole. Mine started going into limp at 105K it lasted till 119K when it started going into 299 code so had a new turbo then. Worth a try in that it only takes 5 minutes and you dont even need to take the engine cover of. Let us know how you get on.

Hi Im suffering from water loss on my 184hp VRS at 120k miles. A good way of knowing if its the charge cooler is to fit clear pipes to the metal pipes fill up with water block one and use air to pressure the other. If you can see the level dropping you have found your fault. I think im going to have to change mine. Will it come out from behind the pump on the drivers side that's driven by the cam belt ? it looks like there's holes in the bracket for a tool to fit in. Its A CUNA engine code. Cheers for any input.

I used Castrol Edge in my VRS, went down to Cornwall and used a litre over over a 800 mile trip. That was 5 years & 34000 miles back. Did the same journey last month and used no oil, only difference is its been on Liquid Moly 4200 for the last two year's.

Snake oil. When last in Spain in our Fait 2-8 Motorhome A can of Wynn's Injector Cleaner every 3rd tank paid for itself in increased fuel economy with the add on off certainly having more power on long hills.

Hi my VRS TDi MK111 does now and again regen on the drive after a 30 mile drive . My question is how do you know its regenerating while your driving at say 75 mph on a duel carriageway? I have no lights on the dash to say its doing one and unless you roll to a stop at say an island and the tick over stops high I would not know. Never thought about diluting the oil problem before now. Its on 119k

It can only go out the exhaust or the top breather. Ive had mine since 86k and its always liked a drink when on Castrol Edge but I read a few posts on here and changed to Liquid Moly and that stopped it by at least 50%. Im ****ed off a bit this has had 10 services by Skoda up to 100K + 2 by me. Anyway ive given it the full herb's a few times since and not a hint of blue smoke since that 1 time. Have to wait and see no codes have come up.

Yes they wear of course. But they don't dump a load of oil out the back then stop. Valve seals will leak on the overrun with high vacuum conditions, turbo seals don't mend them selves either.

Forgot to add new turbo & drain pipe fitted 3K miles back

Just passed119K miles and have a strange 0ne Hi my VRS with the CUPA engine has always used a bit of oil since ive had it at 86K . Now done 119k miles and yesterday just looked in the mirror & there was clouds of blue smoke behind me as I left an island in a 30mph zone. Not done it since despite me giving it some stick. Ran obd scan over it & no codes came up. We all know these suffer from rings but this was a lot of smoke & rings do not repair themselves. Anything on the inlet side that can let a lot of oil into the manifold? Thank to advance for any info.

If its the drain pipe from the turbo to the sump it must be clear of any obstruction. I have to say no experience of Skoda/ Vw turbos but all ive worked have a free flow back to the sump after lubricating the turbo bearings

Didn't think of a coat hanger, Good effort. Were did you get your disks from please? Cheers

If anyone want to check their disk size without taking the wheels off you can measure them with a pair of large divider's through the wheel spokes. No dividers just clamp 2 bits off metal with mole grips so they rest on the disk edge

There are a few known case's of cracked heads leading to water loss over time. I hope you haven't got a crack into an oil way.