Liteboy

Very little as there are other bits of the underbody and wheel arch trim that sit lower. Makes the front of the car look like ought to have been in the first place. Its OK with standard kerbs although I did get out and check it the first time. Still get ribbed by the wife about not catching my shiny bit of plastic.

I have a Maxton front Splitter on my 2016 Vrs. I fitted it myself but it would be easier with two people, I used various props and low tack masking tape to hold it in place. I didnt use the bolts supplied as they advise removing the front bumper. Used push in expanding button trim fixings, a couple of self tapping screws with prefixed washers and some Evostik Sticks like clear, which is the best grab adhesive. Wouldn't trust double sided tape.

This is mine with the space saver at the bottom and then the Peugeot hard foam ring sitting on top of it. The boot floor is support well.

Yeah, I looked at your profile after I posted and thought the same. If you're stuck I can see how much it would cost to send it as is weighs nothing.

I have the boot foam for the Vrs Estate surplus to requirement (FOC) if its of any help, depending where you are.

There should be either a spare wheel or a hard foam filler with a pump and other items under the boot floor. These do support the floor as it's only cloth covered hardboard. I recently replaced my hard foam filler with a space saver and toolkit but that leaves a 10cm gap to the floor and it sagged quite a bit. Found that a wheel well filler from a Peugeot 207 fills the gap exactly, just a big ring of the hard foam. Boot floor is now supported again.

I had a four wheel alignment done at Formula1 at £85. Has made quite a difference as all the wheels needed a tweak. Mine doesn't have ACC either.

The alternator will charge the 12v battery as it does on a non hybrid car. The main battery will charge when plugged in and a very small amount with regen under braking/coasting depending on how you have it set up. My inlaws have a new Rav4 hybrid and during lockdown did zero miles for about 5 months they then found the 12v battery was flat and needed a visit to Toyota to charge and reset everything. They now have a trickle charger from Toyota to plug it in when they are not going to be using it for a while (they have an Aygo for running about) I have a ctek trickle charger for my Mk3 VRS that I plug in if it is going to be idle for a few weeks.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-OCTAVIA-VRS-18-SPACE-SAVER-SPARE-WHEEL-LIFTING-JACK-BRACE-KIT-/282666721376?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-VW-GOLF-Mk7-SKODA-OCTAVIA-SPARE-WHEEL-HOLDER-CLAMP-PEG-BOLT-SET-/274664593406?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

Ordered a 18" space saver, toolkit and clamp off eBay. I know back in the day not having the wheel clamped down was an mot failure may not be the case now. Did consider a full size spare but would need to lift the floor as don't have the adjustable one.

Bit of both now lockdown is eased. Inlaws live about 80 miles away, son lives about 150 miles away and wants help to move house😬

When my Vrs was in for its last service the garage did a health check and pointed out that the tyre sealant in the boot has gone passed its expiry date. They quoted about £65 for replacement bottle. I am not a big fan of sealant, bad experience with my Fireblade back in the day. Have seen preloved 18" space saver kits on ebay with toolkit for about £95 which would do without raising the boot floor for a full size spare. I had a look in the boot and looks like there should be a clamp to hold the spare but have no idea if the kit on ebay has one or what it looks like. Any one have a picture of it? I will have to do do something as my breakdown policy specifically says you must have a spare wheel or repair kit to be covered. What have others done?

I am in need of the chrome exhaust trims for a mk3 petrol Vrs. Skoda want £92 each Inc vat. TPS won't let me purchase from them as I am not trade. None of the breakers I have contacted either have them or respond at all. Kopacek have them at €89.99 plus shipping which will be more than Skoda by the time they arrive in the UK. Any one know of somewhere else to try? or maybe someone has a set lying around.

I was loaned a 1.5tsi Scala when my Vrs was in for service. It was pretty awful, lumpy and not a pleasant drive. The 1.0 Tsi Kamiq they loaned me before was much nicer.

Fitted my pedal box at the weekend and got to try it out today for the first time properly. Certainly transforms the pedal feel and the pickup from standstill, also seems to make the stop/start less jerky at pull away. Tried it in Comfort and Sport but not Sport+ yet. A good improvement over the standard pedal feel.

My Vrs Tdi wagon is just on 5 years old and has done 39k, it's going in on Thursday for Cambelt, tensioners and Waterpump £600 all in at my local main dealer. Two local independent garages quoted about £50 less so for the peace of mind Skoda it is. Think its advisable to stick to the 5 year change regardless of mileage.

So I have had a chat with a couple of places that do the software update but it's probably not worth it as I am not going to be remapping the car. I pinged an email to Dtuk asking which would be of more benefit and the pedal box would give me more benefit, especially as their DSG software is more expensive. So I have ordered one in the sale and will see how it goes.

I am considering a DSG remap for my 2016 Octavia VRS Tdi Combi and wonder what people's thoughts were? There seem to be quite a few tuners offering DSG remapping so it would be good to know any to avoid? My reasoning is I find the gear changes especially in S not really optimal especially when slowing for sharp corners and the accelerating away, always a bit jerky. Recently had the 40k DSG service but doesn't seem to have improved it much but did notice on my obdeleven that they didn't update the factory software. Not looking to have the car it self remapped as find it powerful enough for every day use.

I recently carried six 450x450 concrete council type slabs in my Mk3 Combi. I laid them equally over the axle with the seats folded flat and a good level of padding to protect the car. I wouldn't have wanted to carry any more than that in one go.

I recently went from very worn PZeros to F1 Asymmetric 5s and the grip level is so much better. Had a full Hunter wheel alignment at the same time and was able to see how far out it had become. I went with Black circles who list two varieties of the Asymmetric 5s, one is Audi specific and one a general replacement tyre which is the one I went for. Goodyear technical said either would be fine though.

Fitted my Whiteline rear ARB yesterday along with new drop links and all new fittings. Took measurements on both sides to ensure everything was parallel and centred. Took the car out to make sure it felt OK and you can definitely feel the difference. Glad I bought new drop links as getting one of the old ones off would have been impossible without breaking it.

Found the two settings and we have lift off. Thanks for the pointer 👍

I thought so too. No dashboard symbols at all for Lane Assist as I would have expected. Will have to pop my obdeleven in tomorrow and see if something is going on.

My 2016 Vrs was in for service today and they loaned me a Kamiq for the day. Part of the insurance requirements was not to turn off any safety features, not a problem. Any way lane assist was on and the little green dash light was on and it occasionally interfered and flashed orange but nothing to intrusive. So on the way home I just wondered how it behaved on my own car. I selected the option and ticked the box, didn't get a green lane dashboard light but the display showed it in large scale which I reverted back to mph. Drove all the way home and the car didn't feel any different or try to correct me if I wandered on purpose. Went back I to check it was still on and it was. Am I missing something or does it just not work very well on older models?

I am getting to grips with my new OBDeleven dongle and wondered how accurate the battery voltage indicator is. With the car cold and not running it shows the voltage as 11.9v when cranking this drops to 9v and when running its 14.4v after running for about 10 mins the non running voltage goes up to 12.4v but is immediately draining. The other question I guess is the battery on its way out, car is 5 years old next week.