Orman

VCDS won’t even trigger the regen, it won’t even elevate the rpm and exhaust temps stay at 163 degrees, then it suddenly aborts after a while. The Autocom will actually initiate a forced regen, and rpm go up to 1500 and DPF temps increases. But after 30-40 minutes it also aborts, and DPF temp only reaches a maximum of around 588 degrees with all power consumers on. It should be over 600 degrees if I’m not mistaken.

Surely driving for 2,5 hours (180 km) non-stop at freeway speeds, then turning around and driving the same back home after a quick stop at McDonald’s would be enough to finish the regen? When I arrived home and parked it, I noticed idle rpm at 1k and smell of soot. On the way back home I even drove almost completely in 4th gear at 2500-3000 rpm and a lot of WOT for this reason. It seems to me it just never finishes the regenerations no matter how long or hard I drive it.

Also, if I try to do a forced regen with VCDS when standing still, it will abort after a couple minutes. No fault codes just says “aborted”. Any idea why?

Yea I was shuffling it around the drive away when that picture was taken. Yea… it’s drinking fuel like nothing else. Is there any possible way to save this DPF? Will any of those DPF cleaning additives help? Cause replacing it is not even an option since it’s very expensive, id rather have the DPF gutted and deleted instead. But that is also undesirable, since I’d like to keep it as stock as possible.

Hm, this will basically reset all values to zero thinking the DPF is brand new right This sounds like a workaround, but surely will cause issues in the future?

Hm, it does actually show 69 g oil ash as the picture I posted above, and max limit is 80. How do i reset to 0g of oil ash? Can it be done with VCDS? If so, please tell me how.

Hm, on the way back home I drove for 2,5 hours in sport mode at highway speeds (mostly 100 km/h+), which kept it between 4th and 5th gear and 2500-3000 rpm. Still the dpf light came on. The instruction manual says to drive between 1800-2500 rpm at speeds above 70 km/h for dpf to regen correctly, so I was well above that.

I’m not sure, I’ll have a look tomorrow. However, all lights are working as intended in the rear, including turn signals, which are not always lit up. If it’s cheap LEDs used in the side lights, shouldn’t the car throw a check light warning for both left & right side? It’s only throwing it for the right side. Or is this not always the case? However regarding the front, I did notice two things. 1. When the headlight switch is at the “0” position, as shown in the picture above, they finally stop constantly illuminating. But when the headlights are in this mode, they do not even light up when indicating either. Meaning they are just completely off. In every other position on the headlight switch (running lights, auto, low beam) they do indicate as intended. But when not indicating, they are instead always illuminating. 2. The LED strips, or DRL as you mentioned, also blinks when indicating, but exactly out of phase from the turn signals. Are these even supposed to blink when indicating? If so, are they supposed to blink in, or out of phase compared to the turn signals?

But how come the car starts to actively regen with only 5,58g of measured soot, exactly every time I go out and drive? On longer drives, even on straight highways, it will even pop up with a check DPF warning.

Here is some values I pulled from VCDS. This is after 6 hours of almost straight highway driving after a journey I did today.

Which lamps are the front side lights? Isn’t that the LED strips along the bottom of the headlight? Cause those are not replaceable, right? The thing is, when I indicate either left & right, the indicators on the dash blinks rapidly. If I’m not mistaken, cars usually do this if there is a fault in the system such as a broken lamp. But I’ll take a look at the coding. Do you know how to find the relevant coding in VCDS?

I have an Octavia vRS -15 that I bought a week ago. I just noticed a couple days ago that the front turn signals are always lit up, except for when the light switch is at “0” position. And they are blinking out of phase with the side and rear turn signals. Also, it’s always giving a warning for front-right side light, even though it works fine. The car had a LED light bar mounted for high beam with built in DRL function, and it was installed by splicing signal directly from high beam and DRL wires with crimp connectors and speaker cable… Today I removed everything and disconnected LED bar completely with the relay and all wires, thinking the problem was related to that by messing with the canbus or something. But the issue still persists. The only thing that is now fixed is that the front turn signals are now blinking in phase with the rest. Any idea to what is going on? I have VCDS but it’s not showing any fault codes, unless I don’t know what to look at.

Hi, plugged in VCDS to do a regen and this is the values showing. Seems kind of low, why is it trying to do an active regen all the time then?

Thanks for reply sir. I read that i also need to replace the Canton amp to a MIB2 Canton amp. Is this necessary, or only replace what you mentioned?

I drive plenty, both to/from work but also on my spare time. Before this car, i had a Kia Ceed -2010 for 6 years, also a diesel. During these years i put 170,000 km on the odometer and its now at 370,000 km, and never had an issue with the DPF. It barely even did any active regens either. But i suspect the previous owner drove this Octavia for short trips.

I noticed that everytime before i shut the car off and the fans stay on, idle rpm is about ~900. Yesterday for the first time when i shut the car off after driving at 110 km/h for 30 min straight, the fans shut off immediately aswell. That time, idle rpm right before shutting off was 600-700 rpm. Does this for sure mean that the car is in the middle of an active regen when im shutting the car off? If so its very strange, cause its happening almost everytime. I received my VCDS today, so will be plugging it in to check soot values.

Ah ok, how come the dealer wont do the coding?

I see. Does navigation and/or Apple carplay need to be coded in to work? Even if i fit a system from a car that originally had navi and carplay enabled?

Hi, my Octavia RS -15 has the headunit with the smallest screen, it doesn't even have navigation. I've attached a picture with the model number. The second picture with the larger (8 inch) screen is what i would like to retrofit, preferable with apple carplay. I dont really care for maps/navigation, but it would be a plus. Im guessing i have MIB1 and what i want is MIB2? What model number should i look for? Also, after swapping the head unit in the glove box and the screen, is it just a matter of letting a Skoda dealer do a CP removal and some coding? Also, I have Canton sound if that is worth mentioning.

I had the same thing happen with canton surround sound being greyed out, i had to actually play a song through bluetooth until i was able to click it.

Hi, just purchased a 2015 Octavia RS 2.0 TDI with 238k km / 147k miles. At the end of the 3 hour drive back home after picking it up, i got a DPF warning light, which seems strange after driving for 3 hours straight. But the car was running fine with normal performance. Anyway when i got home i plugged in my Autocom diagnostics tool (i have ordered a VCDS) and ran diagnostic for checking soot amount. It was reading 68 grams and it says 80 grams is the limit before needing to replace the DPF. So i forced a regen and during regen its reading 17 grams for some reason, im not sure which reading is the correct one. However after 30 mins during regen it failed and stopped the process, and soot amount was only down to 16 grams. And i noticed the DPF only reached a peak temperature of ~560 degrees celsius, which seems kind of low and probably why it failed and stopped the process. So i tried it again and this time it also failed during regen but with a peak temperature of ~588 degrees, which still seems kind of low. Outside temperature was somewhat chilly at 9 degrees celcius but that shouldn’t matter. This was 2 days ago and ive driven the car since, and its driving like normal and dpf light havent come up again, but i have noticed that every time i shut the car off, its keeping the cooling fans running for a couple minutes. Its happening exactly everytime i shut the car off, and without being driven hard at all. I assume this is dpf/regen related. Anyone have any suggestions to what is going on?