3T51704x4

@LuPuSThanks! So if both 44 and 45 pull 3.7A; disconnect the ecu plug. If they still pull 3.7A the fault is a trapped wire. If the load disappears, the fault is either the ecu or further towards the 13 pin plug. No load should be pulled IF connected correctly with nothing connected to the trailer plug. The other option is you don't have white/red (ws/ro) wires going to output of 44 and 45 and something else is connected to the permanent feed.

Sometimes it is easier to buy the one for your exact car to reduce the chance of these problems. They are more expensive, but in terms of sorting things out time wise, it is the better option, same with buying parts from TPS, you get the latest revision and know it will fit first time (assuming the parts specialist knows their stuff). Regarding the second battery retrofit, I did some info way back when.

These are the fitting instructions from my kit. I have access to online Elsa CFDs but I am forbidden to post on here as it is a live factory document and it has my watermark ID on it. 29220508PF_SKODA_Superb_12_13.pdf

So if when you remove the two fuses your load disappears, you just need to leave those two fuses disconnected rather than disconnect the battery. Then you need to work back to the trailer ecu. As the two fuses are affected, you may have trapped the two wires when putting the car trims back together. Or you have connected the wrong wires to the output side of 44 and 45. Also check the wires in the tow plug are terminated correctly with no loose strands shorting to another pin.

Where did you connect the three wires going to 43 44 and 45? Which kit did you use? 13 or 7 pin? which wiring diagram did you use? is anything connected to the tow plug? Do you have the additional relay kit? Has the tow ecu been coded? Is it a second hand (previously installed) kit? Do you have experience with Skoda wiring diagrams? Can you take a photo of the two ecu and rear of the SC fuse box showing where the three wires going into 43 44 45 go to? No magic fix, you have to work through methodically to find out where you went wrong or if the ecu is pulling current. Do you have a split charge system? Have you installed the two battery mod in your car? 70 mA is the factory limit for static current as you already know 3.7A (3700 mA) is way too high 47watts and will kill the battery quickly.

Ha, special smoke like Langers2k says is an in joke with diagnostic techs. It came in my case when attending an advanced electrics course at Milton Keynes training school when it was at Yeomans Drive back in the 80’s. Very precious is special smoke, once you have released it, you need to go to the parts department for new special smoke to put back in the ecu ;-))

Or you have water ingress into it, either way, the special smoke needs to be refitted to the ecu as it has been released. I may have one (J519) kicking around somewhere, you will need to recode it as my car has most options bar sunroof, so you may need to turn some things off.

Possible they didn't fit genuine parts or they tensioned the belt pulley the wrong way, or didn't fit the tensioner tang in the slot. Like Chimaera says, only let a skoda/vw specialist fit belts on these and ideally use parts from TPS, that way you get the latest part revision not the superseded parts the factories sell to ECP, or fitted the wrong waterpump, or didn't bother to remove the engine mount to replace the tensioner stud (can be replaced in situ but it's tricky). If it is not tightened correctly, it will come undone. Think there was a tech bulletin to replace noisy belts, TPS ones would have been supplying the latest one though. Over to them or money back.

Mine was a rebranded OEM ecu

I searched the part number for the Octavia loom via ATP on ETKA, it only comes back as Octavia so may be a bit risky getting that one.

Good shout Chimaera, can you remember the PR code for with and without? Also could you see if you can see the other kit from Westfalia, may save mushroomnr some time. If not, I will check ETKA later, they had something on there for with and without prep. Was a few years ago I did mine.

Ask someone on here close to you with VCDS to code it for you for a drink. Where are you in the country?

I did have to change some coding with VCDS to get the Columbus to show when the tow bar wiring is connected and to turn off the rear parking sensors. Also the ESP is changed to know a trailer is fitted when plugged in. If you fit a universal kit, non of these changes will be enhanced. Just a few ticks req.

Why not go for the specific kit? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Superb-Estate-10-15-Detachable-towbar-WESTFALIA-7-pin-specific-el-kit-/173649098401?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Only reason I went for the 13 pin kit is I didn’t want two plugs on the back of the car (can’t fold them away when not used) and I can plug my charger into the 13 pin plug to keep both 12v batteries charged when the car is unused.

Best getting a second hand engine from eBay but make sure you get a money back guarantee, some repairers will not fit second hand engine supplied by the customer as they have no idea if it will work. Best bet is to get a quote, but they will have to strip it to assess the damage first which will cost you regardless of going ahead with the repair. I would do it myself, but you may need special tools so prob best getting it done by a VW/Skoda Specialist rather than a dealer. These prices are a guide only, labour and gaskets nuts bolts not included. Assuming it is a CAYC engine.

Did he check the fuel pressures before deploying the part cannon? I don’t have a petrol engine in mine, but I would use these testers to check the pressures in a diesel. Spill return is above 1 bar Feed to HP pump above 6 bar. And check the specific gravity of the fuel for contamination first.

I would advise a electrics kit from PF Jones. I bought a 13 pin kit OE kit with the trailer ecu and additional wiring for fridge etc. I went for the removable Westfailia bar kit. Straightforward install after ripping out the Mickey Mouse kit previously installed with crappy scotchlock type connectors. DONT USE THEM, you will have wiring faults in years to come.

This shows some options on ETKA, best to look at the part number on your loom in the door, it will have a sticker showing the sub options too.

BFGB? Not come across that code. My engine code is CFGB, did mine in the last lockdown. But these will give you an idea of what is involved: I would advise replacing the tensioner stud if it does not come in your kit. Always replace the water pump too if you are keeping the car.

Undo the cable harness clips to remove the plug connector without risking damage to the connector. DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRE, you could easily snap it off the connector. Test the resistance of the glow plug as it may be OK and the connector may have snapped anyway. If you don't have the workshop pliers to pull the connector off, tie a length of wire around the plastic connector below the ridge and pull it off like that. DO NOT PULL ON THE LOOM!!! I say this with some concern at your disconnecting the injector thinking it was a glowplug. The glowplug recess needs to be blown out with compressed air as the threads are so fine you risk damaging the thread screwing the new one in if some debris gets trapped in the thread in the cylinder head. Torque the plug too. You also have a risk the plug may snap off in the head if the thread is corroded, to avoid this, any abnormal resistance when removing the old plug STOP and gently wind the plug back in then out then in etc with a small ammount of releasing fluid, bu doing this you have a much better chance of success. This goes for any tight fixing. Good luck !

It will be possible if you have time and money. I retrofitted a heated front screen on my 2003 VW Passat 4Motion. We spend lots of time in the French Alps and at the time looked into doing at as my old Sierra XR4x4 had one and it was great. So at the time I worked for the network and TPS were selling off old stock in their internal sales. They had four Swedish spec heated front screens in stock all for sale at £62 +vat. I had a windscreen company fit it and bought the factory wiring loom inc switch and relay to wire it in which was about £120. The loom had Ford part numbers on it as back then Ford, had an agreement with VW in the Ford Galaxy VW Sharan platform. Ford had licensed the wavy lines in the screen to VW (now the patent has expired, lots of other manufacturers use it), but back then only Ford and VW used the design. Worked really well and just what I wanted for a quick getaway for the pain au chocolate morning rush or driving to mid station to avoid the queues. My 3T superb was a must have heated front screen and 4x4 heated seats front and rear and heated washer jets. My T6 van does not have a heated screen, but I may retrofit a parking heater with telestart instead.

The battery voltage needs to be tested under load, I bet the voltage drops right off. Only buy these batteries from places with a high turn over as it could be old stock. The workshop manual even says to test with a decade resistor box connected across the battery. Also make sure it is actually a CR2025, which you do have in this case, but I had someone where the shop gave him the batteries, turned out although asking for 2025 he was given CR2015 which fitted and worked for a week, but then failed. It was half the thickness and obviously much less capacity from required spec.

Took some photos during a recent clean of the intake manifold flap valve V157 which was not as bad as others I've seen. The nozzle coats the valve causing reduced movement or even sticking and results in the glow plug light flashing and limp home mode. Logged codes in address 01 include P012100 and or P211100 and or P211200. While your valve is soaking in your solution of choice take the time to remove the EGR nozzle to the plastic inlet manifold and rotate it 180 degrees. The nozzle body is mechanically coded (only fits one way round) and needs to be modified with a round file to allow it to fit correctly. Later cars have this done from the factory now, but to check to see if yours has been done, remove the boost pipe and use a mirror or take a photo looking up into the valve. If you can see a slot facing you, it has not been modified yet. Remove 2x T30 from the pipe at the cylinder head Incidentally, if your EGR valve sticks open, the engine will peter out like it's run out of fuel. These are the two bolts to undo and slide a cut to shape drinks can (width of the pipe diameter folded over in two for added durability) down between the gasket and the head , tighten the bolts up again, this then blocks the EGR gas from choking the engine and allows it to start as an emergency repair to get it back home or into a garage. Then undo the clamp to the nozzle and remove the EGR pipe. Another 2x T30 and you can withdraw the nozzle.