3T51704x4

Yes but if they are fine then what. More likely to be the HT leads or coil pack, or injectors or carbon on the back of the valves.

Proper diagnostic techniques save hours and lots of money:

Someone with experience would know it was misfiring though. Scope with cylinder pressure sensor/ COP sensor would show the workshop if the crank was speeding up or slowing down, don't need to wait for the ecu to log it.

Trouble is you need to understand what is happening prior to the parts bingo. You could fit a new sensor and by disturbing the wiring going to the sensor, it may have had a partially open circuit which will allow the new sensor to give the correct signals to the ecu but could fail again when the engine vibration takes hold. The 5v feed, earth and signal wires need to be scoped (or looked at by other means) to see exactly what is happening. I repaired a wiring loom the other day on a T6 where someone had replaced the oil level and temperature sensor unit to have the same problem. I found the signal wire back to the ecu was OK, but the 5v feed and earth wires were severed within the PVC insulation within the loom. I have also seen this many times for the new additional coolant pumps on CR35s, the loom under the sump in the corrugated sleeving is the cause in 70% of cases, not the pump Sometimes spending a little more on garages with the correct diagnostics and people able to interpret the results saves you money in the long run.

So the DSG is a manual gearbox with two clutches to allow very smooth gear changes. Does it only happen in 2nd or does it also happen in 4th and 6th? if so it could be a fault on that shaft or juddering of that clutch. If you can only reproduce it at a certain speed, regardless of the gear it could be wheel balance - if you can feel it through the seat it's the rear wheels, if through the feet or steering wheel it will be the front wheels. Unless it's looked at in the flesh though it is difficult to say what is wrong.

If the EPC comes on it should log a fault if checking with ODIS or VCDS, some others may not. It could be many things from low fuel pressure to misfire or throttle adaption or broken wires or throttle pedal etc etc......

My MAD springs make no difference to my handling, but they allow the car to sit at the correct height with factory removable tow bar and retrofit of AGM (heavy) secondary battery as fitted in the boot on the V6 Superb, but saying that, I am now too old to spank it and have winter tyres all year round so it would be drifting in high speed hairpins anyway. It has the standard springs but B6 shocks and the MAD springs. If I need to change the factory rear springs, I would fit the matching springs for the B6 shocks. Other than the springs, everything else I fit is genuine.

The filter catches the fibrous friction plate material when it wears off the plate surfaces during normal use, which when mixed with the oil, causes a sludge buildup. This causes the pump brushes to burn out as the pump has to work much harder pulling more current which heats up the carbon brushes which is why it's intermittent to start with but as the brushes wear further they no longer make contact with the motor commutator, the braided wires hold the brushes away until the pump body is lightly tapped then it will work again for a bit. I kept my old pump, at some point I will take it apart and replace the brushes and have it as a spare. But the filter will be getting replaced at every oil change, mind you it hasn't done 50K yet so may be a while as don't use it that much.

Tip for your mechanic, tie wire to the pimp plug, much less frustrating routing it across the diff unit.

A few pics from when I replaced mine. Friend let me use a ramp which makes it much easier as I’m old.

Easiest place is you can find it on the data sticker on the inside cover of the service book or if the PDI tech bothered in the spare wheel well in the boot.

Mine did, kept erasing it then notice a wheel spin one day pulling out of a junction in the wet.

Try this link

I posted a list of all the rows and how they are fed, don’t have it on my phone any longer, when I get home I will get it off the laptop and post it.

You will need to reset the adaption values too. It will still run lumpy once it’s replaced as the ecu is compensating still.

Oops just seen other posts relating to this. Disregard this one Check the rear shock dust shields are secured with the rubber bump stop. I’ve had these rattle when the bump stop deteriorates and it rattles in the shock housing. I have also seen plastic inserts left fitted which are used to reduce suspension movement during transport from the factory. One set had been in place for 20000 miles, they just thought the suspension was hard 😳

Sounds like slack chain until the oil pressure builds up. Audi 1.8T engines do this and is fixed with new chain tensioner usually. which engine code do you have? CAXC 1.4 TSi 125ps? The timing chain can stretch on some engines. Think a kit is 03C 198 229 C but you need bolts and gaskets too which don’t come in the kit. You get new chain and tensioner, new camshaft adjuster, guide rails and modified timing gears.

Just seen rover220 gave you same info..... Well too much info better than not enough 🤣

Mine started logging sporadic pump issues, simple way to check as I found out was when pulling out of junctions in a hurry the front wheels spin when the pump isn’t working. The brushes in the motor wear out or crud from the plates clog the impeller. Bought the genuine part from these guys along with the filter kit. you will need to borrow a ramp as I did or you will struggle unnecessarily. Do the filter and change the oil again. Pump: https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/pumps/0ay598549a-generation-4-pump-haldex-vag/ Filter: https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/filters/generation-gen-4-filter-kit-vw-audi-seat-skoda/ I got the oil trade at TPS, but they sell it too.

Took some photos during a recent clean of the intake manifold flap valve V157 which was not as bad as others I've seen. The nozzle coats the valve causing reduced movement or even sticking and results in the glow plug light flashing and limp home mode. Logged codes in address 01 include P012100 and or P211100 and or P211200. While your valve is soaking in your solution of choice take the time to remove the EGR nozzle to the plastic inlet manifold and rotate it 180 degrees. The nozzle body is mechanically coded (only fits one way round) and needs to be modified with a round file to allow it to fit correctly. Later cars have this done from the factory now, but to check to see if yours has been done, remove the boost pipe and use a mirror or take a photo looking up into the valve. If you can see a slot facing you, it has not been modified yet. Remove 2x T30 from the pipe at the cylinder head Incidentally, if your EGR valve sticks open, the engine will peter out like it's run out of fuel. These are the two bolts to undo and slide a cut to shape drinks can (width of the pipe diameter folded over in two for added durability) down between the gasket and the head , tighten the bolts up again, this then blocks the EGR gas from choking the engine and allows it to start as an emergency repair to get it back home or into a garage. Then undo the clamp to the nozzle and remove the EGR pipe. Another 2x T30 and you can withdraw the nozzle.