Tivan

I have the same thing, same noise, same car with 5 speed manual...i think its been like this at least 30k kms. Was planning to change gearbox oil but I never got to it. I am not planning on taking it apart or anything, first I will change the oil then we will see. I was also suspecting its gearbox as mine is acting up when downshifting sometimes, but not sure. I have watched a russian mecahinic explaining in video a while ago where he said those M5 are notorious for breaking unless you change oil. Supposedly you should do it before 100k on the clock. I guess I am pushing my luck at this point at 119k. But then again, you are at well over that mileage so I may still have time...

I wish I knew. Any potential point of contact I could see I treated with silicon, with heat-resistant tape that has a small layer of foam on it, then also a few other improvisations. I also tried to isolate any friction between that lower trim and upper lighter trim as much as I could without results. So I am at lost at this point. I just don't understand how this happens after years of silence. I understand that squeaks and other similar sounds in a car can develop with time as the materials age or something gets loose. But most often due to constant stress and movement (like door trims). However, in most cases when you find the cause of the issue and tighten the loose part or treat the area with silicon or what not, things get back to normal at least for some time. Not here. And there is nothing that can be loose. Well, anyway, maybe I get lucky and someone who dealt with the same problem reads this thread in the near future. Until then, I will most likely try the same things again and again until it miraculously gets solved.

One year after update - damn squeak still there. There is no thing I have not tried. Various tapes, silicon sprays, cloth....nothing helps. IT does not make any noise during winter time. But as the temperatures start to raise these days where I live, sound is back. It's so damn annoying that I am thinking of pulling this thing out and drive without it. The only concern (a legit one) is that my foot will then be very close to a hot pipes. During summer that thingy gets very very hot... What I cannot fathom is that squeak can happen when I accelerate from full stop. How is that there is any or that much movement of these parts to provoke this squeak? I mean, I do need to apply solid pressure with my hand to provoke it.

Ash residue is the value you need to observe in relation to when to think about replacing the entire DPF. Soot value is normaly at 24g when active regen is started. On your car for some reason it was unable to do that until now. Having this oil ash residue at only 19g at your mileage raises suspicion if that value is correct or not. If it is then your filter most likely is not for change. Although I am unsure how you can determine if it's correct or not at this point, educated guess from me would be that dpf was cleaned at some point and then was reset. If that is correct, what you now observe is clogged DPF that cannot perform active regen and needs forced one or replacement. That would be more appropriate state for given mileage of the car.

😁 I imagine I would discover the problem in a different way if it was dead body in there...

I almost never turn of ac, summer or winter.

Its def not 1). Not sure what you mean by "condenser leak". Nothing is wet in the car and as far as I could tell in the summer by observing puddles under the car, condensate is draining correctly. My car has older style of refrigerant, but regardless, I kind of doubt It's that as well. First of, I had same smell 2 winters ago after which I did detailed spring cleaning of AC system (mentioned in original post) and that helped for one winter season. I have not done anything to my AC in regards to service of it since car was 3.5 years old (since i own it), so if it was leaking that much so it can be smelled, by now I would probably have zero gas inside of it and no cooling effect at all in the summer. Second, smell of the refrigerant should be more like electronics smell? If so, that is nothing like what I have. My theory so far is that somewhere in the ventilation system there is still dirt and fine dust buildup. So when car is recirculating hot air, that creates humid enough air that it triggers that dust on the vents and produces the smell. Then again, why does it not happen if there is no recirculation, but there is a ton of fog outside...that surely is humid air coming into the car from the outside....

I thought of some time should I open this topic or not. At first, it may seem trivial or stupid... but, I do want to solve it and I think it's kinda interesting and may help someone else in the future. So it's about smell from the ventilation. But not just any smell, and not just in any conditions. This is rather specific. At winter time (now) when heating is working and it's actually blowing heated air, IF I put my vents on recirculation (lets say in heavy traffic), the air coming out of vents smells... well.. its more like air coming out of a bag vacuum cleaner when the bag is full. It's a dusty smell and also kinda as if there is a hint of wood ash (like if you vacuumed the stove a bit and then what vacuum cleaner smells afterward). Mind you, I cleaned all the ducts in spring last year. And i did drop as much as I could AC cleaning foam onto evaporator from the middle console duct hole. I cleaned the ducts with damp microfiber cloth (from inside) and also some chemicals for disinfection of home AC and then some AC deodorant afterwards. I regularly change cabin filter (twice a year) and I use the AC spray at least once a year. In summer, I try to dry off the AC after coming to a longer stop. My car is not that humid, windows do not fog up unusually and then do clear quickly in winter. No smells in summer. This problem ONLY happens when recirculation is ON and when the engine is warm enough to actually heat the car. Also as soon as I turn of recirc. no smell. If I turn on recirculation when It's still blowing cold (after starting the car with cold engine), no stink.

There are ways to clean (or at least try) DPF yourself. And then there are specialist workshops that do that. Latter of course as better (and more expensive) option. Results of course would vary from car to car and the state of DPF it was in prior to the cleaning process. Most will argue that professional cleaning is the option 1 before buying new DPF because of the price. And I would agree. Unless you live in a country where you can go with option C - remove DPF. I am not familiar with Carista. I do use OBD11, and it never shows me errors I cleared myself previously. Then again, I never look for it. There is a log of course where I can access this data. But the fact that you saw this on your car and the problems you have now does sound fishy and I would suspect that dealer you purchased the car from has hidden some info from you prior to purchase. Although, it may just as well be that they cleared some irrelevant intermittent codes (like, low battery in key fob or similar less critical codes). I would advise you do visit a trusted or well regarded garage in your area and bring the car in for inspection. You do not have to go on and start repairing the car part by part until fixed (that guess work is expensive). Rather try to visit one or more specialists if needed and form your own opinion on what to do, with their professional advices in mind of course. Someone else here may and probably will jump in as well. Btw, since you said car was well maintained, has the car battery been changed and how old it is?

Addition of percentage on top is because its not starting regen. That much you guessed yourself already. Now as to why it does not do regen, I would also guess because of that error with actuator. Not 100% sure and someone here may know better for Skoda and this engine, but on some cars regen process can and is disabled while some other issues exist. Having an issue with TAC does sound like that would impact regeneration cycle logic. Also, on your image, Oil Ash Residue value of only 19.1g makes no sense for the mileage of your car. Unless DPF was cleaned and this value reset in the past.

I always remove the filter, do the cleaning session without it and then put back new filter in (or old one if its not too old and in a good conditon).

Yes, screwdriver and lamp/torch is mandatory. It's not a rocket science what needs to be done, it's practice to do it properly. . For me the challenge is in making the damper arm stay in proper position while I am trying to fit the box on its hinges and all that. Depending on the the box, on some cars that damper simply does not want to stay up so you need to use duct tape or something sticky in order to have it in the right position while putting the box back in.

So true. After the years I can put it back in few seconds most of the times, but now and there comes moment when I need to take a step back in order not to brake the car.

Cant say I encountered this before. But, to me it does sound like a vibration kind of rattle. Maybe something is loose, and it picks up engine vibrations (especially if it's diesel)? I recently took out of that middle/center air vent for accessing aircon for cleaning, but I dont remember anything inside that could rattle like this.. I would also say it may be something in the air vent that vibrates as the air goes through it, but you said everything is off, so it cannot be that.

If I may ask - how did you find that actual value? I would not be surprised if it's the same on my car.