NJRJ

Don't forget to cover them to keep UV off them.

So that means the GPS in your phone is pants, so unless you buy a GPS watch, or get a new phone (or move somewhere with less tall buildings/trees/pylons) you'll have the same problem methinks.

That roof fault looks like an early defect, so a scratch on roof, or in the primer or the colourcoat that's filled in from the clearcoat. That's rubbish, I'd want a respray, AND a discount AND a real proper (no if's/buts) rust guarantee or I'd walk away - I realise your supply chain length makes rejection harder.

Magic spray of any sort is fairly unlikely to find a porous wheel casting. But I'd always have any recently fettled tyre re-seated (like john999boy says) if it still drops pressure I'd get a new tyre/valve (BUT keeping old tyre if 3mm+) and see if the warning still pings, if it does then it's fairly likely that the rim is iffy, but any good refurbers (new word?) 'automatically' fix most problems such as bead seat damage (from tyre monkeys - apologies to none simian tyre professionals) as they re-lacquer the rim bed, and bead seat, well pretty much everything whilst the rim is spinning in the air. If the tyre/rim hasn't been recently interfered with, then a leak is likely to be just a slightly punctured tyre that's under load, not many magic sprays are calibrated to detect that....

I really like that the snowy lumpy parts of Germany insist on decent tyres for the winter period (Nov - Easter?) France was a bit wishy washy, some areas demand snow tyres (no ifs or buts) but some others saying chains are enough - the number of cars that snap a loose chain and then blocked a road on a Saturday was beyond a joke in The Paradiski area. Once the plough or police got to them they got forced down the mountain but it would delay thousands of people, occasionally some would abandon and walk away and it could take the weeks holiday to find where they'd lifted the car to! €300 to get it back for some!!

The 10 years of the winter driving I did in the Alps I occasionally had to drive works vans that had more grip on the front, either just snowies on the front (all season on back) or with snowies all round and needing chains. If you're gentle you can get away with it, but the limit is surpisingly low AND that's in a 90BHP van! Being bored I tried swapping the grip to the rear instead, it meant the tail did't step out, but as you just couldn't steer or get traction (or both) it didn't help - Great fun in a car park! I would never mix tyre types on a vehicle I own. A good laugh is seeing a RWD with just one set of chains and them trying each end (neither really works) - but occasionally I would be behind them and then it's no fun so I'd throw a spare (usually discarded) set of chains on the opposite end so they could having steering and have power, I'd collect the chains from their accomodation and €20, or get €100 if they kept them. Always retighten chains after a few yards unless they're very posh ratchet chains - rubber band type do work but only if tightened.

An assessor will check tyres, and for go faster stripes, big brakes and any other TINY mods that weren't notified, a simple 5 minute check will save the insurance company tens of thousands.

Oh hang on your talking the bike park and not the road pass, so you'll be fine - if you head downhill ;-)

I've ridden a bit of it but had to walk some, that's on a tourer with a granny of 24 and 34 on the back.

Nah a proper driveway has both an entrance and an exit, combined with standing room for several horseless carriages to disgorge their passengers at the steps to the big house, however where ever you live it's a good idea to ensure the gravel goes right around the house to make sure anyone approaching is heard - great tip I had from family in the Midlands.

Nuke it from orbit, it's the only way to be sure...

Seems I (everyone else/we) are a bit late to this but as labman1001 says the tint only affects incoming light really, I think mine is 50% (might be 65%) and in the rear you'd not really know looking out, looking into the rear then unless you get really close and have a good look anything inside is too dark, it really isn't too much cooler after about 10 mins of stopping though (big roof area and all that, a moon white car too...).

Depends which side of the river you live on in Shrowsbury dunnit?

Moneysavingexpert.com has a few articles on buying cover, some policies are paid directly to the recovery agent, others are 'you pay and then reclaim'

It will only take the first prosecution of any upper hierarchy road user to bleat to the papers that they didn't know the law, despite it usually being common sense. So the story soon gets 'out there' and then (1) virtually every motorists will chime in with 'cyclists don't pay road tax', (2) bicycle users will say the pedestrian 'just stepped out' etc, etc, etc. I'm not entirely sure who pedestrians can complain about down this liability hierarchy, so it probably means they can do no wrong (but see 2 above) - but they'll still get killed on and off the pavement exactly as before, and in vast numbers just as before, by vehicles almost always, and by a bike very, very occasionally.

MR (multi reflector) in MR10 = no, MR11 = yes, MR16 = yes, and is the most common reflector size, the number is the diameter in 1/8ths of an inch, so an MR16 is 2" across, the base size is what matters really (but only if it will fit the holder/base) and the usual 'MR16' are usually GU10 and are 240V with two stonkingly fat mushroom end posts, 10mm pitch and 'quarter turn' in the ceramic holder. 12V versions are GU4 base (for MR11) or GU5.3 for MR16 and are parallel pin push fit. PARnn are also reflector lamps and again in eighths of an inch - PAR 38 being big reflector ceiling lamps of the 70's (Yes I still have several...)

I'm not being rude but don't you have really poor eyesight?

Can't help but if it's a repeatable fault (or characteristic as car makers call them) then it's a great anti theft device!

On my estate the latch cover has a slot that a car key can poke through to the release, though I used a screwdriver instead of an expensive key...

Eek that's bad, I'd be swapping them very soon!

The size of your crack matters, big cracks are never a good thing, how old are your tyres, check the sidewall, date code is a 4 figure code in an oval, in the format of wwyy, so ww is week of production (in the year), and yy the year, most tyre sellers will say 5 years is 'too old', obviously better tyre dealers will say usage/UV exposure/standing time unused/how they look matters (much) more. Photo?

I'm sure in the UK most people won't notice any real diffrence as it takes us decades to approve and build roads,certainly locally and definitely nationally if a newt might be involved, but in Europe the maps change very often, France seem to build needed roads much more frequently than we do, given all the empty countryside but without 'landed gentry' (or nimby's) to complain.

They've gone from bugger all to slightly more bugger all? 32K against 2M without a battery (2019) is probably dealers shifting what they had left, that isn't totally a planet killer?

That was called an O level when I were a lad (ducks, runs and dons a nomex suit 😉)

Or put the existing (smaller?) seat behind the driver and the (bigger?) seat behind the passenger as they can have their seat forward if needed.