golf2

Thanks! That's very useful to know.

Is the heat mat recall a sit and wait job?

I'm glad to hear it wasn't just me with the footrest issues. I'm also glad to hear you're happy with the other parts! I ended up buying my pedal covers second hand on eBay as they weren't in stock on Kopacek at the time. It does make the interior look a bit nicer 👍

Thanks Oscarito, I will bare that in mind. It is a shame as I have had many great products from them and always been very impressed with fast delivery to the UK. It's the first time I've ever had an issue and it is a genuine one.

I would like to add my recent experience with a product from this company which was very dissappointing. I purchased a VRS style footrest to match my VRS pedal covers which is described on their website as OEM quality: "- over 35,000eur invested in the design and mold - rapid prototyping used during the development - OEM fitment and quality - same design as the rest of the RS pedals caps !! - forget the cheap ebay imitations and get the real OEM quality !!!" I received the item in good time and it was well packaged. At first glance it looked rather nice, although a bit thin and flimsy. I went to install it after removing the original Skoda footrest, and whilst trying to slide the new footrest onto its plastic mounting hooks, both the hooks snapped straight off at the same time, with very little force. The hooks were lined up perfectly and the only way to install it is to slide the footrest downwards so the plastic hooks engage into the metal cutouts in the floor. After closer inspection, you can clearly see the plastic hooks are made of extremely stiff and brittle plastic, unlike the original Skoda part which is more flexible. Also, the hooks on the original part hard larger openings for more clearance. I did NOT force the part in any way, whatsoever. I barely put any pressure on it before the hooks snapped off simultaneously. I emailed Superskoda / Kopacek to request a return and supplied photos as requested. This is the resonse I got: "Hello, I´ve handed it to check by manager as we never had such claim. The information I´ve to provide to you is the claim is rejected - as the installation was done wrong. Regards Magdalena Kopacek.com team" I'm very dissappointed at this response as I am a genuine person, I'm not trying to take the p**s here. I did not install it incorrectly. I'm deliberately careful when installing aftermarket parts for this exact reason! I've used this company many times before and always been impressed with the quality of their parts and delivery times etc. This is the first time I've ever had an issue and I'm not impressed with the response I got. Just be aware that if you ever do have a problem with one of their products, you may get a similar response.

That's good to know as we would usually be a few metres from the car. We were concerned as we often work on busy streets in London with pedestrians walking past. Thanks for your help.

"Kessy can absolutely be switched off, both temporary and permanently by coding. There is caveats though; Start/stop will stop working as the car can no longer speak to the key when coming to a stop. You'll need to hold the key to the start button after pressing it so the car can detect it and authorize startup, this is the fallback that is used for a dead battery." It was this bit I was referring to which is further down on the page. Thanks for everyones help though, much appreciated!

It's the auto unlocking I was referring to, not auto locking. Thanks for this, looks like it can't be done without disabling start stop.

Hi all, We've recently purchased a 2022 Superb Sportline facelift for work and was wondering if it's possible to permanently disable the auto unlocking feature, so the car will only unlock by pressing the unlock button on the key fob? It currenlty auto unlocks just by pulling the door handle if you have the key fob nearby. This is a bit of a risk for us as we often work on the street near the car and have expensive equipment in the car. I'm concerned that someone walking past could just pull on the door handle and access the car whilst we're not looking! I have VCDS but dont know if its possible to disable this feature. Thanks.

Hi all, I'm looking to replace my gear knob as mine is looking rather scruffy. It's a 5 speed and I've found two different part numbers online which both look identical. Does anyone know of any differences between 5E2711113CM and 5E2711113L ? They seem to look like identical parts but perhaps there's a small difference. Thanks

All done, thank god. The worst part was removing the torx screws (2 per side) which attach the front wing to the bumper. There's very limited space. The rest of the job was relatively straightforward. I clamped off the radiator hoses so didn't lose much coolant at all. The old radiator was in a pretty bad state. Leaking from the bottom edges due to corrosion.

The radiator in the video is different to mine. Mine doesn't have tangs, it has big rubber bushings in plastic holders which can only be removed by squeezing together the clips from behind the front bumper. It's a completely different design. Mine is a 1.6 TDI and the one in the video is a TSI engine with a different radiator setup.

Unfortunately not, the 1.6 tdi is completely different to that TSI in the video.

Thanks for letting me know, is this something I can do in VCDS? I've made a start on replacing the radiator today, it's a pain in the backside. Having to remove the bumper to access the mounts that hold the radiator assembly. It got dark so will continue tomorrow! Thanks for all the help.

That is incredibly useful, thank you so much!

Thanks very much. I'd missed that one!

I have a leaking radiator on my 1.6 tdi which is like to replace myself. Does anyone know of any manuals or information about doing this job? I've tried searching but not found anything. Thanks!

Hi all, My 2014 Octavia 1.6 tdi has recently developed a fault where I'll be driving along and suddenly the engine dies for a second and then carries on. It's like I've switched the ignition off and on very quickly whilst driving, which obviously I haven't. After it happened 3-4 times, the engine light came on. I have read the fault codes and found several codes relating to the camshaft (P001B Intake Camshaft Profile Control A, bank 1 circuit low and P0012 Camshaft Position (CMP) intake/left/front, bank 1 timing over retarted). I cleared the codes and rescanned, and P001B came straight back with the engine idling. Would these codes likely be caused by a faulty camshaft position sensor? Thanks!

I've been searching for the last hour before I asked but couldnt find what I was looking for. Thanks for your help, much appreciated as always 😃

Hi guys, I have kindly been given the latest update for my car but I'm having difficulty getting it to install. I have unzipped the folder onto an SD card and also tried a USB stick but I get the following error. Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong? Thanks in advance.

If anyone has access to the latest firmware for my system it would be greatly appreciated. I'm having some issues with the navigation and would like to try updating it if possible. Thanks in advance.

I'd recommend retrofitting the OEM Skoda camera which replaces the original bootlid handle. It integrates with the original parkpilot system and gives reversing gridlines etc on the display. Depends how much you're wanting to spend though.

Hi guys, Bit of a weird one but here goes. I have a Columbus MIB 2.5 retrofitted with the 9.2" touchscreen. I have recently installed a complete audio upgrade which consists of an AudioControl LC6i, Alpine PDX-F6, 2x PDX-M12 amps and speakers. I have all the amp gains set correctly with the use of an oscilloscope and it all sounds great. The only issue I'm having is the volume control or speaker level output control from the headunit. When increasing the volume from mute all the way to maximum, the volume peaks at around half way or 50 per cent of the scale. It's like there isn't much adjustability from 0 to 100 percent volume. I have used a test tone and measured the speaker level voltage coming straight out of the headunit and it goes from 0V through to around 2.9V all within the first half of the volume scale, then doesn't increase at all beyond that. Depending on how I configure the LC6i / amp gain, this results in either the volume being too quite when maxed out on the headunit, or the volume being too loud at the minimum setting on the headunit. I can't seem to get a full range of volume control from the headunit as the speaker level voltage maxes out at 50% on the volume scale. I hope this makes sense, it's very difficult to explain in words. In VCDS, the infotainment is coded for "Sound System Internal" as my car didn't come with any external amplifier, just the standard 4 channel output from the headunit. Does anyone have any ideas of what I could try or how to get the headunit to use the full range of the volume scale? Thanks 👍

Hi all, I have a Columbus 2.5 retrofitted in my 2015 Octavia which worked perfectly to start with. I've recently noticed the FM and DAB radio reception have become very poor. I can get a signal but it's very intermittent, cutting in and out when on the move in areas of good reception. I've checked the AM/FM and DAB antenna connectors on the rear of the head unit and they appear to be fine. I have installed a front and rear dashcam which I thought was to blame but if I completely disconnect the dash cam power it makes no difference at all. I also installed a genuine SKODA rear view camera but I've also disconnected that and no difference. I believe there is a small inline signal amplifier in the rear pillar near the antenna. Has anyone ever seen one of these fail? That's the only thing I can think of at the moment. There are no other new electrical devices which could be causing interference and nothing else has changed. Any ideas welcomed! Thanks.

This may sound like a stupid question, but could someone advise what the optimal range of RMS input powers would be for a set of 100w RMS speakers? The speakers in question are a pair of Alpine R-S65c 6.5" components and a pair of Alpine R-S65 6.5" coaxials. They're rated at 100w RMS so obviously this would be the ideal input power, but would you get away with for example a 75w RMS per channel amp, or a 125w RMS per channel amp? How far below or above the rated speaker input power would be considered safe and still effective? I'm currently considering the Alpine R-A60F which is rated at 4 x 100w RMS at 4 ohm. Thanks