SW-

You’ll also need some sort of rod to push against them - not really accessible for fingers. I used a ballpoint pen. Having done that on both sides, the compartment will drop down, and the “brake rod” (which is on the right hand side) will fall out. When you put it back in for reassembly, the side with the cog teeth faces out from the compartment (ie so that you can see it) and the round end is at the bottom. Make sure the round end is outside the compartment as it can sit either way, then pull it down and towards the front of the car. At this point it should be obvious how it slips in to a fastener and clicks in to position with a slight pull to the back of the car. Dreadful design for something you may need to get at on the road.

Re some cameras not taking power from the USB-C port: this is probably not a power limitation on the Skoda, but a design fault on the camera. It's a common problem with devices not working with USB-C chargers. USB of any variety is supposed to negotiate the amount of current when a device plugs in, and USB-C will also negotiate the voltage. In practice on USB-A the negotiation is often ignored and the device draws as much current as it wants. On USB-C, things are a bit stricter and a standards-compliant power supply will not deliver any current unless it gets the right signal. This can be as simple as having the right resistor in the power-consuming device, but often the device doesn't implement this (because the company thought that it would be plugged in to USB-A). In a few years this will be worked out, but for the moment it's a bit hit and miss which devices will take power from a USB-C socket.

I have this problem. I did manage to fix it for a few months. There is a cable internal to the headlight which had become chafed and was exposing some wire. I got another (broken) headlight from eBay and replaced that cable. Unfortunately the same symptoms have come back after a few months and I haven't had time to open it up and check.

Just in case anyone else has this problem: As far as I can tell, it is not possible to dismantle these xenon headlights. The transparent part at the front is permanently fastened in place, which means that it is not possible to get at the back of the main connector. That means that you cannot remove the red and black leads which come through the headlight to the connector for the ballast, although it is easy to check those wires for continuity. It is possible to remove the high voltage cable, which can be important as this can fail. First remove the ballast (two self-tapping Torx screws), then carefully remove the back cover that the ballast was attached to. There are four clip, and they break easily. There may also be a couple of self-tapping Torx screws securing the cover - remove these first. Don't lose them as when the clips break, they may be the only thing holding the cover on. Take photos of which way the cable is connected at each end, and press the metal catch on the bulb end of the cable to release and remove it. Now remove the plug from the inside of the cover. It is retained by six clips - push these out of the way with a screwdriver and you should be able to dislodge the plug. The cover end of the high voltage cable is harder to remove from this plug, but it is possible. The head of the cable has four blue plastic nubs, two on each side. When the head was pressed in to position, each of these nubs is held by two plastic whiskers forming a V shape, so that when the head was pushed in, these whiskers clipped in behind each nub. Again some deft work with a watchmaker's screwdriver should let you get the cable head free. Be careful - they are not designed to be used more than once, and will probably snap easily.

Hi all. I've got a 2.0L diesel DSG Octavia II - bought it as an ex taxi at 153k miles, and it's still running sweetly at 183k. I've put in a few minor mods - mainly a aftermarket Android head unit.