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Hi, pic of RHD fuse layout , fuse 44 is the front wipers...

Typo guys it’s fuse 44 👌

Roomster (Fabia)? 2010 to 2015 fuse number 40 is the fuse for front wipers ...replaced mine today .. Here is RHD diagram

Ben persistence pays ...Result today ! After leaving a radiator in the car for a month to dry it out ( after lifting soaking carpets and removing electrics to dry in side house) ..I previously installed new drivers door motor and winder switch due to water ingress , repaired insulation at door hinge.. Turned ignition on today ..still Imobiliser killed engine and no start lights .. Went through fuse block today working fuses in and out and flexing wires feeding it ..and dash came back to life ...( under dash fuse block) Started and ran without Imobiliser killing it. Checked window operation that had all stopped working ... Everything back up and running as it should .. Did not change instrument cluster or any other modules... Drying car out before getting at it again was my main worry .

Ben, well done , you have beaten me to a result ! The imfo you started with and initial fault diagnostics was bang on then ...No Vin Code in ECU ( for your car) .. so that needed fixed .. and sounds like it needed re flashed (hard memory wiped from eprom)? to allow your car details ..Vin , and pin code to be entered. Also engine maps etc.. I am still taking baby steps with mine ...more time researching all the new electronics .. and how not to break them while testing .. I bought the official Skoda manual on line for £8 to check what relays do what ..earth point locations .. battery test procedures.. It also describes maintenance re-set light procedures using dash clock button and buttons on end of wash wipe stalk.. (4 or 5 methods depending on age /model ). I have tested relays under dash ..(including X relay that cuts load to non essential electrics on starter operation, including installing jumper test lead on pin 5 to see voltage dip to 10 or 11 volts and return to 12.6v ) all are good.. I am still waiting for replacement dash ( with Immobiliser) ,, emailed seller ,,no response ...PIA. On the positive side Two brand new keys arrived today ,, unused original Skoda parts.. plus two new blank blades to cut to my car.. Pulled the Can Bus convenience unit from under dash .. that was dry .. all contacts clean ..no burnt smell Re windows ..I changed my OSF window motor that filled with water at the start of my issues, for good measure I changed the master window switch in that door too ... Got all the windows up and down on all doors on their switches ... but master would not control them ... then stopped working ...disconnected and charged battery ,,, windows worked again then stopped again ! I know about the design that if motor overloaded it trips out and then re-sets ...may be associated to this function, but why all windows.. there is a window lock button in middle of master door switch .. the master is brand new TPS part.. light on the lock worked properly .. On your car common window faults :- Pop the door electric feed rubber bellows off the a pillar by pressing down and back ..if you look in side you will find cracked insulation or snapped wires ..common on fabias.. mine were cracked so used two pack epoxy to encapsulate the two affected wires .. you can buy heat shrink soft solder bullets that I find make a very neat reliable repair when cable snapped ... To take your door trim off (to check for water in window motor / Control Module) mine had to pop inner door handle trim .. remove screw top and bottom of handle location ...two screws bottom edge of door... grab bottom LH RH of door and yank out ...then push up.. to release two clips in top edge ..and trim edge hooked in to rubber .. Motor controller plastic electric connectors are very brittle ...if motor is dry ..fill gaps in connectors with your favourite silicon grease ..Vaseline etc ( worked well for 45 years on my winter motorcycles keeping water out) Factory manual identifies tow electric box under drivers seat on MY14 ,, so as I have tow kit I will check this out for water ingress ..Carpets were soaked when my windows opened themselves .. so I think pull this unit and dry it see if that helps issues (don't see why it could all driving lights work well. Excepting the fact it will be plugged in to the can bus. I think I will also need to run a 40 m long power cable to my car and leave a heater over night to dry it out ! I have looked at your Coding guys website and he looks like he has all the right factory tools /links ..I will give him a call and see what he can do for my car ...( when the dash panel / immobiliser arrives ) .. I have AA homestart / recovery could get car uplifted to him if he has confidence in a fix..

Ross tech info from link quoted above ... To summarise latest cars 2008 on have codes generated at the factory server and are not seen by dealer doing the update. From replies I've had I can get used modules re-coded by Factory server. Vag Com needs pin codes extracted from donee part as well as original part..otherwise it can not do it per chart below :- Immobilizer Contents [hide] 1What is Immobilizer and why is it important? 2Which cars have Immobilizer? 3Which Immobilizer System does my Car have and which Procedures are applicable? 3.1Immobilizer Generation 1 3.2Immobilizer Generation 2 3.3Immobilizer Generation 3 3.4Immobilizer Generation 4 3.5Immobilizer Generation 5 4What Information is required for Immobilizer Procedures? 5How does the 7 digit PIN/SKC work? 6What else needs to be done after Keys are matched? What is Immobilizer and why is it important? The Immobilizer prevents the car from running unless an authorized key is present and has been properly matched to various components in the vehicle. Several different Immobilizer schemes have been used for different years and different models of vehicles with different procedures that apply to them. The components of the Immobilizer system that require special procedures for replacement include the keys, Engine controller (ECU), and the Instrument Cluster (or the separate Immobilizer modules in vehicles so equipped). In some cases other Modules or Parts may be Immobilizer related as well, for example newer Audi Models also have the Transmission as Part of the Immobilizer. Which cars have Immobilizer? In the US/Canada, most VW/Audi models prior to model year 2000 did not have Immobilizer. In the rest of the world, Immobilizer usage was introduced earlier. In most vehicles the Immobilizer Control Module is integrated into the Instrument Cluster. Upper Class Vehicles like the current Audi A5, A6, A8 and Q7 have a separate Immobilizer in Address 05 - Acc/Start Authorization. Many of the older non-US market vehicles as well as some US-Market VW Golf Cabriolet (1E) and VW Transporter/Eurovan (7D) have a separate Immobilizer Control Module Address 25 - Immobilizer. Which Immobilizer System does my Car have and which Procedures are applicable? The Length of the PIN (4, 5 or 7 digits) it not directly relevant to the Immobilizer Generation/Model. Immobilizer Generations are not pinned on a certain Date, they are Model and in some cases even Country/Market specific. None: Cars without Immobilizer will not have a symbol in the instrument cluster showing a key inside a car and will start and run as long as you cut a new key that is able to turn the ignition. The key may also have a W with a strikethrough to indicate that Immobilizer isn't present. If in doubt, check the Factory Repair Manual for your specific vehicle. Immobilizer Generation 1 Keys for vehicles with Immobilizer 1 usually have a small F on the key blade, which stands for Festcode (Fixed Code). Immobilizer 1 Vehicles were sold in the Rest of World (RoW) Market only, not in the North American Region (NAR). If in doubt, check the Factory Repair Manual for your specific Vehicle. Immobilizer 1 can also be identified via the Immobilizer Identification/Serial Number. All VW, Seat and Skoda Immobilizer 1 Serial Numbers contain 3Z (for Example VWZ3Z0S1101234), if you see something else there it is unlikely you have this Generation at hand. Audi models as well as the early VW Passat (3B) may show different Serial Numbers, so this does NOT apply to these models. Key Matching (separate Control Module) Immobilizer I Key Matching (Cluster)|Key Matching (integrated in Instrument Cluster) Engine Control Unit (ECU) Swapping Immobilizer Control Module Swapping (separate Control Module) Immobilizer I Immobilizer Swapping (Instrument Cluster)|Immobilizer Control Module Swapping (integrated in Instrument Cluster) Immobilizer Generation 2 Many 2000-2001 Model Year Vehicles sold in the North American Region (NAR) have Immobilizer 2 and there are other Rest of World (RoW) Vehicles with Immobilizer 2 which started earlier than that around Model Year 1998. To identify an Immobilizer 2 Vehicle, use VCDS to Select the Instrument Cluster (or Address 25 - Immobilizer in Vehicles with a separate Immobilizer Control Module) and look in the Extra Field. You should see a 14 digit Immobilizer ID Number such as Immo-ID VWZ7Z0W0648696. There should NOT be a 17 digit VIN Number in the Extra Fields. If in doubt, check the Factory Repair Manual for your specific vehicle. The North American Region (NAR) market VW Cabrio used two different generations of Immo 2, depending on whether the vehicle was built before or after 05/1999. Early production NAR Cabrios with 25- Immobilizer part numbers beginning with 6H0 are Immo 2/Gen 2. Later production systems can be identified by the 6X0 serial number which is Immo 2/Gen 3. Key Matching (through Instrument Cluster) Key Matching (through separate Control Module) > Ross-Tech Website Engine Control Unit (ECU) Swapping Immobilizer Control Module Swapping (integrated in Instrument Cluster) > Ross-Tech Website Immobilizer II Immobilizer Swapping (Separate)|Immobilizer Control Module Swapping (integrated in separate Control Module) Immobilizer Generation 3 Many 2002 and newer Model Year vehicles sold in the North American Region (NAR) have Immobilizer 3 and there are other Rest of World (RoW) Vehicles with Immobilizer 3 as well. Use VCDS to Select the Instrument Cluster (or Address 25 - Immobilizer in Vehicles with a separate Immobilizer Control Module) and look in the Extra Field. You should see BOTH a 14 digit Immobilizer ID number and ALSO a 17 digit VIN number in the Extra fields like this: WVZKB58001H231169 VWZ7Z0W0648696. The first 17-digit string is the VIN and the second 14-digit string in the Immobilizer ID. Keys that have been previously matched to a different Immobilizer 3 System cannot be reused with another one (which has a different Immobilizer ID). In some cases, you'll need to check in the Engine Control Module in Measuring Value Block (MVB) 081 to see the VIN and Immobilizer ID. If in doubt, check the Factory Repair Manual for your specific vehicle. Key Matching (through Instrument Cluster) Key Matching (through separate Control Module) Key Matching (through Kessy) Engine Control Unit (ECU) Swapping Injection Pump Swapping (V6 TDI only) Immobilizer Control Module Swapping (integrated in Instrument Cluster) Immobilizer III Immobilizer Swapping (Separate)|Immobilizer Control Module Swapping (integrated in separate Control Module) Immobilizer Control Module Swapping (integrated in Kessy) Immobilizer III Measuring Blocks (Ross-Tech Website) Immobilizer Generation 4 Many newer cars including all of the Golf/Jetta (1K) Models use Immobilizer 4. There are different varieties of Immobilizer 4 Implementations, some of them don't show a 14-digit Immo-ID anywhere, but rather a "Challenge" Value in Advanced ID. This Challenge changes every Time Terminal 15 (Ignition) is cycled. As a general rule, VW models using Immo 4A (with Adaptation) may have Serial Numbers that contain VWZ (for Example VWZ7Z0G7051888). VW models using VWX (for Example VWX7Z0G7051888) "or ones without a Serial Number shown at all, do not use Adaptation and will have the revolving "Challenge" Value in Advanced ID. Those systems using a Challenge Value are not considered supported at this time. This means with challenge systems, VCDS cannot perform ANY of the procedures listed below: Key Matching Engine Control Unit (ECU) Swapping Immobilizer Control Module Swapping (integrated in Instrument Cluster) Immobilizer IV Immobilizer Swapping (Kessy)|Immobilizer Control Module Swapping (integrated in Kessy) Immobilizer Generation 5 Ross-Tech does not support Immobilizer 5 procedures at this time. What Information is required for Immobilizer Procedures? VCDS can match Keys to your Car, but only if you have the specific PIN Code for your particular Car. Prior to 2002, some vehicles were delivered with a scratch-off Panel on a Plastic Tag] that contained the 4 digit PIN Code, some Manufactures like Seat and Skoda used this methods up until 2008. Prior to April of 2005 (US only), it was possible for Vehicle Owners to go to their Dealer with Proof of Ownership and the VIN and Immo-ID (the latter can be read with VCDS). The Dealership would punch that Information into an Online System that would give them the PIN. At that point they were able to give it to you. Unfortunately VW/Audi has eliminated that System and now the dealer never sees the PIN. The GeKo System sends it directly to the Dealers' Scan Tool, which sends it to the Car and does the Key Matching - without ever showing the PIN to anyone. There are Locksmith Supply Companies that sell Products that purport to be able to extract PIN Codes, which could then be used by VCDS. Just as they sell Lockpicking Tools to legal Users, those Tools could also be used for Criminal Purposes and as a Result, we do not sell or recommend them. For the US Market the National Automotive Service Task Force (NASTF) has been working with automakers including VW to hopefully provide some form of access to Immobilizer information using the Secure Data Release Model (SDRM). erWin offers some Immobilizer and Pass-Thru solutions which are mentioned under the notes section of our Official Factory Repair Information page. The following Chart shows what Information is needed to perform each Procedure. The Requirements and Steps differ depending on whether the Component you are installing is brand new, or if it has been previously matched to a Vehicle. Please understand that this is a general Chart and there may be exceptions! Immobilizer 1 & 2 Immobilizer 3 Immobilizer 4 Immobilizer 5 Key Matching (New) Original/Car PIN needed Original/Car PIN needed Original/Car PIN needed N/A Key Matching (Used) Original/Car PIN needed Not Supported Not Supported Not Supported ECU Swapping (New) No PIN needed Original/Car PIN needed Original/Car PIN needed N/A ECU Swapping (Used) No PIN needed Original/Car PIN needed and Used ECU PIN needed Original/Car PIN needed and Used ECU PIN needed N/A Cluster Swapping (New) Original/Car PIN needed Original/Car PIN needed and Replacment Cluster PIN needed Original/Car PIN needed and Replacement Cluster PIN needed N/A Cluster Swapping (Used) Used Cluster PIN needed Original/Car PIN needed and Replacement Cluster PIN needed Original/Car PIN needed and Replacement Cluster PIN needed N/A How does the 7 digit PIN/SKC work? Our Manual has a Page dedicated to the 7-digit PIN/SKC Dialog in VCDS. You must enter the following Information: 7-digit SKC that the Dealer retrieved for your exact Immobilizer ID Number. Date on which the 7-digit SKC was retrieved by the Dealer. Workshop Code (WSC) for the Dealer that retrieved the SKC. Importer Number for the dealer that retrieved the SKC. The 7-digit SKC is useless without the other three Items. Unlike the Factory Diagnostic Tools, with VCDS, the same PIN can be used for a particular Car at any Time in the Future, as long as you keep track of the PIN, along with the Date on which the PIN was retrieved by the Dealer, the Dealer's Workshop Code (WSC) and the Importer Number. What else needs to be done after Keys are matched? On most Vehicles the Immobilizer is separate from the Remote Controls, so these would need to be matched separately and Details for these Procedures can be found on the Model specific Pages of our WIKI. An Exception to this Rule are those Vehicles with Keyless Access and Start (KESSY), for those the Remote Controls are usually being matched automatically together with the Immobilizer. Navigation menu Categories Main Page Diagnostic Procedures Common Procedures Fault Codes Retrofitting Immobilizer Tools Log in Unless otherwise noted, all content on this site is Copyright © 2000-2017 by Ross-Tech LLC. All rights reserved.

Ben , one detail you mentioned at start of post was that the Vin number in your replacement ecu was incorrect. One coding demo I watched had the steps of reading and if different ..changing the Vin number as well as inserting pin from original component This Vag Com chart tells what Vag com ( as a stand alone system ) can and can not do do regarding ecu / instrument and key coding :- http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer I have seen you tube coding examples ( from foreign language demos) that use other black box methods and saved factory code files ...but I don't know what age vehicle they work on .. Also as stated earlier dealers will not code second hand parts ..why would they ? If that part then fails and destroys your car they are in the middle. Odis and Geco ( VAG factory systems) used by the independent tuners are in another market , Experimental / development .. Race rally etc .. Not cheap to use , but unless Someone on forums can tell me of a certain bet elsewhere ..it's my preferred option (only option) ? PD has also replied pointing to Odis and Geco in earlier responses.

Ben, Security system on my car needs factory link up ...Geko is the system used ..I would expect locksmiths to be up to date on that , if they do regular work on vw group cars ...independents can sign up on the factory system access ...but it costs on a per hour rate....the guy I am going to use is an idipendant tuner ( but I will ask the Geko question before I tow car in ) link below spells it out .. https://erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/showOnlineServices.do Earlier models have differing security..you will need to pick the bones out of the imfo to see if you need Geko connected to update .

Ben , sounds like progress on your job..let me know how it works out My new door motor arrived , I’ve bought new window switch too as a precaution.... got two spare keys on way , and found a dash with exact part numbers and model numbers for a decent price ..lot less than dash repairs ..may even code it up as a spare for the car if original sparks back to life..( like a spare imobiliser) There is an independent tuning firm in Northampton that I have been in to see today and they stressed the importance of having exact match on the donee dashboard... So I have stacked and racked the parts that are most likely to be cause and effect for minimum outlay.. The tuner has a factory uplink and stater he can re-code dash and other items like keys... I only had one key so that will give me options if 1 immobiliser key gets lost ( up to 8 keys can be accepted in to security code session) I will pull and test all relays , and clean all earth cables before I tow car over to them for coding . It would be nice if I could get dash start up lights on first ... May even source spare ECU ..just in case Faulty original ...I can always re-sell if not required.. I don’t want car to plug in to factory session and then stall due to blown part and no replacement... As I know factory uplink is a pay by hour ..per link in use.. (I’m sure you Vag com guys are thinking owner diagnostics is best way forward, but I’m in information overload due to too many messages in an unfamiliar presentation (is it me that’s dyslexic or is it the genius that designs these systems) I’m experienced in knowing what parts fail and why they fail , also if in doubt then to replace if you can not eliminate by other means). I have also experienced the benefits of factory tech alerts (known failure modes and fixes) .. that is worth many hours of diagnostic time and will pay for that information and their investment ).. Just wish Skoda had invested in waterproof window motor closure for Fabia / Roomster that is fitted to Octavia as standard!

There is a canbus (CCU)unit in my car ...black box size of ECU located hidden behind fuse box ... pull out fabric trim below steering wheel ..there are 3 fuses hidden there and relays ...this is my next line of investigations as VCDS advanced measuring units came up with zeros on many systems:- info2 Actual Engine electronics 0 Transmision (Automatic) 0 Brake Electronics J104 0 Instrument Cluster J285 0 Steering angle G85 0 Airbag system j234 0 Steering aid j500 0 Immobilizer Immo 0 I am open to suggestions , gut re-action is pull my CCU unit out. and look for physical damage...burnt or blown components or burnt smell.. or replace that unit..im hoping part numbers are same for DSG car as for manual gearbox ...

Hi ,,I have Roomster 2014 TSI DSG , that I have imobiliser issues with that I am currently working on . VCDS open controller release 19.6.2 :17 -instruments , Recode module page gives the original coding value , (so write that down so you can use it elsewhere. Part no /description on my car is 5J0 920 911M component KOMBI H02 0408 " problems with immobiliser , clocks and windows ? (2014 Skoda Fabaia 1.2 TSI DSG (Roomster) I ripped in to drivers side door and find that the window motor ( and control unit built in) is full of water ! The loom connector is on top and has no waterproof seals in it , so any water that finds its way past an open window runs straight in and screws up these electrics... first indication was speedo cluster warning lights all failed to light , and car immobiliser activated .. all windows stopped opening ... Can get all other windows to work by unplugging drivers motor...waiting for replacement now...car still not starting.. all fuses are OK ..battery Fully charged ... VCDS Scan shows lack of power in instruments and CCU ...Chicken and egg situation ...ongoing.. I suggest get your door cards off and waterproof these connectors before you get water in and screw up your electrics.. Have a good one all.."

Hi Guys any one out there having problems with immobiliser , clocks and windows ? (2014 Skoda Fabia 1.2 TSI DSG (Roomster) I ripped in to drivers side door and find that the window motor ( and control unit built in) is full of water ! The loom connector is on top and has no waterproof seals in it , so any water that finds its way past an open window runs straight in and screws up these electrics... first indication was speedo cluster warning lights all failed to light , and car immobiliser activated .. all windows stopped opening ... Can get all other windows to work by unplugging drivers motor...waiting for replacement now...car still not starting.. all fuses are OK ..battery Fully charged ... VCDS Scan shows lack of power in instruments and CCU ...Chicken and egg situation ...on-going.. I suggest get your door cards off and waterproof these connectors before you get water in and screw up your electrics.. I will copy this to a similar thread.. Have a good one all..