Franky89
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Everything posted by Franky89
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It's just the front two are electric (I think I'd prefer manual windows all around) That makes sense about the Lin bus, I noticed they was a circuit board in the motor when I was checking all the connections. It's starting to look more likely it could be the driver side motor, I've seen one with the same part number on a VW breakers site for £50 which is quite cheap from what I've seen on eBay. When I reset the battery it will work for a short while and then crash and both windows will be non responsive with no attempting noise. It happened when my battery died one morning, it had been going for a few days and I replaced it on the same day it went. Could the drivers switch have a similar problem where it could crash both sides if it's faulty, or is it likely to just be the motor. Thanks
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I've had an issue with my electric windows not working for over a week now. On obdeleven it's showing as the buttons aren't installed, could this be a coding issue, or a faulty switch. Also does the main window motor control the system, so if that gets faulty the whole window system stops.
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The last few days when I've been driving the clutch pedal goes right down and you can hear it knock as it hits the final travel. It presses down really easy and doesn't feel like it's got much resistance. It still drives and changes gears ok, but it just feels strange how fast it drops down with little effort. Could this be that the clutch hydraulics need bleeding and checking for leaks. The master cylinder fluid hasn't gone down. Hope someone can point me in the right direction. Thanks
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Ah right I wasn't sure if it was just for the newer models. Yeah I've seen the hex v2 vcds from Ross tech for £225 for 3 cars, I just need to weigh up the pros and cons to see if I'll get the use out of it. My girlfriends got a rapid so it will always come in handy for her car. Thanks
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Hi Wino, I forgot to mention about the battery it started going a couple of weeks a go, I gave it a good charge a few days ago and then it went down to 12.1 volts after a good drive and then the morning after it wouldn't start and the battery was 11.9 volts. I jump started it to go to BBC super factors for a new battery and it was on my way back it packed in. And yeah it will just stop and theres no struggling noise or anything like that, it's just a cut off and then both windows won't work. I've seen some motors on eBay from a breakers that I'll be happy to change. Do you know if vcds would pick up on individual things like this, I've been think of getting it for a while and now my girlfriends got a rapid it would be handy to have in the house.
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Hi all. I'm wanting to buy vcds. I'm wondering how beneficial it will be on a pre facelift Fabia 2008 5J Will it be able to check all the electrics and engine parts? Thanks for any help
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Hi all I've ran into a problem with my electric windows. I put my driver's side window down but it wouldn't go back up and the passengers side stoped working to, later on about 5 minutes it was able to go up but then crashed, is this a common problem with fabia's So far I've tried the following: Checked fuses Checked wire loom from the car to the door Checked the connections for any rust Followed the wires to check for damage Disconnected the battery for 5 minutes Everything seemed fine. I unbolted the motor to see if it would spin, it didn't spin at first but then it started to spin normally, but it I lifted the switch to the second click it would just crash and then start working again after 10 minuets. Does this look like it could be an issue with the comfort module or the motor itself? Thanks for any help
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Hi all I am wanting to get a canbus converter from 1.6 to 2.0 to upgrade my head unit. I have seen a relay 487 part number: 5J0 035 751. I know they mainly used these in Fabia 2 and roomster. There is a few local scrap yards near by so I'm hoping to have a look around there German section to see if there is any cars that has it fitted from factory. Does anyone know if these relays came fitted with the car, also would the be located under the steering wheel or behind the head unit? I've seen one from Czech which is quite pricy with the delivery so it would be ideal if I could just pop to a local breakers. Thanks for any help
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Hi all I am wanting to get a canbus converter from 1.6 to 2.0 I have seen a relay 487 part number: 5J0 035 751. I know they mainly used these in Fabia 2 and roomster. There is a few local scrap yards near by so I'm hoping to have a look around there German section to see if there is any cars that has it fitted from factory. Does anyone know if these relays came fitted with the car, also would the be located under the steering wheel or behind the head unit? I've seen one from Czech which is quite pricy with the delivery so it would be ideal if I could just pop to a local breakers. Thanks for any help
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Hi I've got a Fabia mk2 2008 pre facelift. I'm starting to get bored of the Skoda Dance head unit and a Bluetooth adapter in the cd changer port, it sounds great but I would like DAB and a better Bluetooth. I would like the Amundsen but with it being the new canbus it's just a Hassel. does anyone know if there Is there any head units with DAB and Bluetooth that will be compatible with the canbus 1.6. I did see some cheap aftermarket ones on eBay the you've got to buy an extra module for dab and I've heard the units are great but not very reliable. My partners just ordered an Amundsen+ so I'm gonna try it with a canbus converter on my car before I fit it to hers to see how it works in mine. But I would like one that is canbus 1.6 Thanks
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Hi Koreenium So it looks like it's a common problem with this car then, I'm guessing I might aswell just clean it out 6 months or so as it still drives fine. And looking at that photo it's pointless for me changing the seal if they just go again. Thanks
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- cbzb
- intake manifold
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Hi rum4mo, that helps, so it looks like it's just something that engine does then, I have a similar thing on my Fabia with the bxw engine and the tapping noise from the lifters, it seems like all the cars with that engine is exactly the same with the tapping but doesn't cause any harm. I drove the rapid today and it drives perfect and doesn't feel any different from when she got it, maybe the oil had been building up over the years, I could just clean the oil out on each service to stop it building up. The engine light has stayed off, I cleared it with my reader but it still flashes amber as an issue. Do you know if vcds could tell if it would be the pedal sensor or throttle sensor for the code?
- 5 replies
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- 1.2
- cbzb
- intake manifold
- leak
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Thanks PipH, coming to think about it, it was raining that night. I think I might leave a hose pipe running over the windscreen for a while and check if theres any water getting in. I've drove it again and theres no issues and the engine light is still off, I cleared the code but it's still showing as amber on the reader so I'll see how it gets on. Do you know if vcds could pinpoint if it's the pedal or throttle?
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Hi all, my partner has a rapid Spaceback 1.2 Tsi CBZB. She has had a code P2138 for the throttle/pedal sensor. I've started checking the wire for the connections, and I decided to take the throttle off to see if there's any gunk on the throttle plate that might be making it a bit sticky and triggered the code, the plate was clean but was coated in engine oil and the pipe to the throttle was oily, and I looked in the intake manifold with a torch and there was a puddle of oil in there. The air box and filter was all clean and dry, the pipe to the purge valve was oily, I checked the spark plug and they looked dry and free of oil. Has anyone come across this? I'm guessing there might be a leak with what I'm guessing is the pcv valve I'll upload a photo with a green arrow to it. The photo with the oily tissue is been dipped into the intake.
- 5 replies
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- 1.2
- cbzb
- intake manifold
- leak
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Tagged with:
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Hi MickA thanks for that I had my battery checked today at a garage, it was all showing as ok. I've been driving it afterwards and the engine light has been off and its not gone into limp mode and I gave it a good run on the motorway the the code was still showing as a stored code :s I got home and started checking the connections on the pedal and throttle I ended up taking the throttle off to see if there was any built up gung on the throttle plate that might be making it struggle, the throttle plate was clean but it was coated in engine oil and I looked in the intake and there was a puddle of oil in there :s I'm guessing at the moment it might be a leaking pcv valve or something in that area. Not sure if this would be causing the throttle to play up but I think this needs sorting and see if it helps.
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Hi My girlfriend has a 2014 rapid spaceback 1.2 Tsi She was driving home tonight and kept struggling to keep up to speed for the motorway and couldn't get past 55mph and kept dropping below 50mph. Her check engine light came on so I checked it when she got back with my basic scanner, and I got the code: P2138 Throttle/Pedal position Sensor/Switch D/E voltage Correlation I'm not sure if it will be the cable itself as the looms are all untouched and we'll wrapped, but I could be wrong. Will this be the sensor attached to the throttle body or is it possible it might be the sensor on the pedal? Has anyone had this problem before. Any help will be great Thanks
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Yeah from what I've read so far it mainly seems to be the Fabia MK2 or Polo or Ibiza with the bxw engine, but like Wino said as long as it doesn't get worse it will be worth leaving untill then.
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Thanks, that's good then as long as it doesn't get any worse or cause further damage then I'm happy to live with the noise as I can't hear it inside the car. Ive seen some cars on YouTube where the lifters are making the noise after 10,000 miles so chances are it could soon come back I guess. And I'll check that and the pick up gauze on my next oil change. I'm happy to do jobs like that because I'd like to keep the car as long as possible and enjoy diy car work on weekends
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That was after about 5 minutes from starting it up but it's the same after a long drive too, it's not as noticeable inside the car but as soon as the window goes down its there
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Hi does this sound like tappet/lifter noise? It is a Fabia MK2 1.4 63kw BXW engine. It seems like its pretty common on vag cars. I will be changing my timing belt in the next couple of month so it might be worth changing the lifters while I have the belt off as it's around £100 for 16 lifters. But I'm just wondering could the ticking sound come back after a few thousand miles so will it be worth it. Or will it not make any further damage if I leave it. I've just done an oil change I used Shell hexi ultra 5w 40 it's suppose to be good and keeping the engine clean and removing sludge so hopefully a couple of oil changes might make a difference, it hasn't so far. vid-20201210-115034049_MZiDX4yz (1).mp4
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vid-20201210-115034049_MZiDX4yz (1).mp4 Thanks I've had a good look around today for any loose parts and I took the exhaust shield off today while I changed the oil. I'm going to take the aux belt off and let the engine run for a couple of minutes to see if it's a slack pulley or bearing. This is the video of the noise it makes
