Agustnr

Apart from the AFS module. I am seeing that pre fl obviously has a control unit for the xenon range control, which also live(s/d) behind the radio/dash, I am just wondering if the wiring is basically the same, except the pre fl has 10 pin headlights regardless if xenon or halogen, although the pins may not be present but connector is still the same 10 pin connector. I just am curious if I can use this guide as a reference since a lot of the structure between fl and pre fl are the same, even if the outside design aspects may not be.

Held að xenon ljósin hjá þér eru bara orðnar of notaðar, miðað við næstum því 400þ km þá er ekki ólíklegt að þær eru orðnar veikar. Hann hjá www.audio.is selur xenon perur á minna en aðrir hér, myndi bara kaupa tvö stykki, ef það batnar ekki þá er sennilega linsan orðin slöpp.

Does anyone know if this is identical to pre facelift? Sorry for bumping

I am not too concerned with the £30 that I paid for it

Hello, So I may have stupidly bought a columbus radio off a guy who said he wasn't sure what the code was, he did tell me that the radio had an intermittent 3 second freezing which didn't really concern me. I've tried out a few places to get the code for the radio, and all of them refunded me with the same message "skoda server offline", does this suggest that the radio was stolen and is now flagged? Or is it really offline? I've tried contacting the people i paid to get the code from and they never responded back...

Hello So I just upgraded my cecm from a 3C0937049E (highline) to 3C0937049AJ (highline) and miraculously I've lost my front foglights. I do not have a VCDS, just a Carly adapter which does support coding but not at the same level as VCDS, however, am I wrong to think that this should not have happened? Or am I missing something. Has anyone else upgraded their cecm and had this occur? Please note I do live in Iceland not the UK, the forum in Iceland is nowhere near as good as this one.

If any help my vin code is TMBBE61Z772070958

Hello, I am thinking to upgrade my BCM, so what I currently have is 3C0-937-049-E 21 byte BCM and it's missing some functions I wish it had, my question is this, can I upgrade to another 30 byte BCM with no problems? Is it pretty much plug and play situation or is it more complicated than that?

Hi My skoda octavia mk2 2007 has the DSP sound system and as expected non original headunits do not work with the amp. I've read all the forum posts but I have not come across where the bypass it completely (at least if I look up there doesn't seem to be any). Now I have tinkered around with the plugs below the seat where the amp sits and I have had some trouble as it seems the wires all power the speakers in a weird way, the tweeter and speaker fire up together and then the subwoofer also plays high frequency sounds, I'm afraid I might wire it wrong if I bypass the amp. I've been trying to look for a wiring diagram but to no avail. I found something which doesn't seem right with my testing in the attachments So does anyone have a diagram? I can provide more information if needed

If you hear this (near the end) ticking sound, it's most likely DMF. If you hear a circular motion metal grinding sound, it is 100% the DMF when you turn off the car. It means the springs are busted.

Forgot to update, but if anyone is interested it was a DMF going bad. I had it replaced.

Hello I'm using Carly ODB2 scanner and these two popped up and I don't find anything when I Google the codes (perhaps they have the wrong codes?) Hope someone knows what these do and the severity of them but the app does say acceptable

I'd just have a mechanic have a look at it see if they are worth buying, might take an hour or so for them to test the car inside out

I had a deeper look with my brother listening for the noise, and it seems to be sync with the lights flickering/dimming very slightly, so I am guessing it could be the alternator pulley going bad. It does only happen when the car is in Park or Neutral

Anyone who has any idea what it could be? It is coming from the right side in the engine bay

Forgot to mention that in the video it's near the end

As the title says, there's like a rattling or a ticking sound that is periodical on idle only, but only at around 750 rpm, if I slightly push the fuel petal the sound won't come at all. It's a 2007 TDI 2.0 BKD engine https://youtu.be/tuVRXUwD_uo

This might sound stupid, but have you tried discharging the system? Unplug the battery for 30 mins and plug back, it might start. My sister's subaru did that too and I let it discharge for about half an hour and then it worked again

It's right hand drive

Yeah, I wasn't asking about the puddle lights, but rather I found it weird that my car would only be equipped with puddle lights and not an indicator light, as I would imagine a puddle light is more of a premium than an indicator light. However, as I stated, for some reason it is not a failure here in Iceland, as it passed through inspection with 1 fault which was nowhere near the electrical components, but hey, we will see what happens when I rip it apart later.

I don't think it is a failure in Iceland since it did not get flagged at technical inspection (we get a paper with all the things that will be flagged). I suppose I will just try to take it apart and see if I can fix it.

I just bought this car a few months ago. I don't see any warning lights like if a bulb has blown in the instrument cluster and the maxidot display doesn't say anything either. The indicators work as expected. It's just curious to me really.

I'm sure they do. Almost all cars here have an indicator on the side (either the wing mirror or the panel around the tyres

It's 2007 model. I might just order from eBay but I'll contact the dealer and check if it's worth going there since it's around £20 for both on eBay. It'll probably be ridiculous money at the dealer.

Hello, So I am a bit confused because my car has wing mirror lights that light up when I unlock the car and when I open either the passenger door or the driver door, but it doesn't seem to blink, and to be totally honest I am not sure if it's meant to so maybe you guys can enlighten me if it should before I start taking it apart? The light is on the other side of that little separator on the left side of the red circle which turns on with the unlock and opening of door.