DBSurrey

Thanks for this, AGFalco. I believed WD40, although a solvent, also contained slightly heavy distillates that did not evaporate but remained behind and acted as a lubricant. This was my reason for using it. Thanks for your prompt reponse.

I am trying to stop an annoying squeak when opening the driver's door. I have tracked it down to the lower part of the door around the hinge area. I have tried WD40 on the hinge without any success. Today I spotted that the door hinges have a black rubber cap which can be removed by hand to reveal a white knurled "grub screw". Would this be the way to lubricate the hinge ? And, if so, what should I use. The noise is just annoying me - almost as much as the dealership that serviced it and didn't lubricate the hinges as per the service schedule. Pics attached. Grateful for any info and advice.

Update : Exactly after a year after replacing, the CR 2025 Varta battery in my key fob died. Luckily I was at home and just fetching something from the car (like last time - phew!). The voltage on the expired battery (no load) was 3.00V. The voltage on the new Varta battery (no load) was 3.24V. Rather than keeping a spare in the glovebox I have decided to keep one in my wallet, together with a 2p coin to open the fob and a safety pin to remove the dead battery. This will save me trying to open the car door manually with the key (probably on a dark wet winter's night. Hopefully I won't drop the new battery down a drain, although I still keep a couple of spares in the glove box). That's technology for you !

New Varta ones have 3.2V. I have found that 3.0V is not sufficient (same with my Mazda 6 fob).

I get the impression there are a lot of fake brand batteries about so the Duracell ones may be in that category. I replaced my Panasonic fob battery after 23 months with a Varta one from Screwfix. Lasted a fortnight but a second Varta one from the same bubble pack is still working after 12 months. I don’t mind if one out of four is faulty (although Varta has a good reputation). Good price from Screwfix as well. Now keep at least 2 fresh batteries in car just in case and on long trips take a second or third spare key as well.

Could it simply be that a worn battery with low voltage sends out a weak signal such that the fob has to be put next to the ignition button to work ? Further away such as outside the car the signal is too weak to unlock the car.

Yes I did think of the air con which I leave on all the time. Strange how it seems to take longer than expected to evaporate though?

I have the same patch all the time from my 2018 Karoq. Haven’t really examined it but I guess it’s (mainly) water as it does evaporate but more slowly than water even in hot weather. I nearly always do short journeys of less than 10 miles so it could well be condensation in the exhaust.

Too much smoke and mirrors for my liking. This and the lack of specifying the oil grade and VW spec in the owners manual seems underhand.

According to the TPS website, the non-PF option suggests 5W40 oil.

Xman, Thanks for being specific. V5 shows engine pre-fix no. is DADA. This ties in with 1. No GPF light on the dash and 2. the dealership using 5W-40 grade for the service oil change.

I took delivery of my 1.5TSI end November 2018. I wonder if it missed the GPF requirement ? I do remember signing a waiver that I would purchase the car despite any adverse results on emissions tests (and any consequent change in the road fund licence cost) that were being carried out a couple of months or so before I bought the car. I haven't seen any particulate filter warning light illuminating despite my low mileage. I'll check if I have such a light next time I turn on the ignition.

Dealership was Allams in Epsom. I queried the grade at both 1st and 2nd service but was told 5w-40 on both occasions. I know VAG cars do burn oil more than most so assumed this was the reason a thicker oil was used. Doing short journeys I would have preferred a thinner oil to help fuel economy.

PF could be particulate filter - are they fitted to petrol cars ? non-long life (fixed servicing intervals) oil seems to be recommended if you do less than 25 miles a day which is definitely me.

The recommended oil for the LHS model is 5w-40, which is what the dealer says they used on the first 2 services. For the the RHS model the recommendation is 0W-20 - quite a marked difference so I am keen to know what the PF means on the model on RHS.

Sorry pressed wrong key ! From the attached picture can anyone tell me what PF stands for in the selection on the RHS ?

I was looking on the TPS site for the recommended engine oil for my 2018 Karoc 1.5TSI DSG. After entering the reg no. I was faced with two choices :

Can't see how alternating key fobs would do that if they are repeatedly sending out a signal to the car, I suspect there is a lot of variability in battery life, even with so-called top brand names (they are cloned in China and appear on ebay and elsewhere). The first battery I had with the new car was a Panasonic which was the only one I used from new - it lasted 23 months. The second was a Varta (ex Screwfix) which lasted 16 days ! The third was also a Varta from the same bubblepack which has so far lasted 2 months.

I have KESSY on my Karoq. In fact when you depress the button the ignition comes on. To start the car you must depress the button with your foot on the brake pedal. So it should be possible to see the message by pressing the button (ignition on) and not with your foot on the brake pedal. A couple of weeks ago, with a 2 month old battery in the key fob, I saw a message "Key not detected" when my key was in the driver's door compartment i.e. inside the car and about 24 inches from the ignition button. I have not seen the message since (and not changed the battery) despite driving the car with the key in the same place in the driver's door. Needless to say I carry a couple of spare batteries in the glove box ! The battery in my key fob failed after 23 monthsbatte I have tested it works by putting my key fob in a "Farady" bag which screens out the signal sent to the car. I could have given it to the wife to take shopping and then tested while she was away. The system does work. If I had to change the batteries each year for peace of mind I think it's worth it but I have had a duff one which only lasted about 2 weeks ! I think the problem is many outlets buy a large stock and keep them quite a while. Also, these are made in their millions so I expect a duff battery now and again - hence the spare 2 in the glove box.

I have KESSY on my Karoq. In fact when you depress the button the ignition comes on. To start the car you must depress the button with your foot on the brake pedal. So it should be possible to see the message by pressing the button (ignition on) and not with your foot on the brake pedal. A couple of weeks ago, with a 2 month old battery in the key fob, I saw a message "Key not detected" when my key was in the driver's door compartment i.e. inside the car and about 24 inches from the ignition button. I have not seen the message since (and not changed the battery) despite driving the car with the key in the same place in the driver's door. Needless to say I carry a couple of spare batteries in the glove box ! The battery in my main key fob failed after 23 months from new. My 2 spare fobs (never used) still appear to work after 26 months.

Just had my 2018 Karoq key fob battery die after only 2 years. Luckily I was at home and just getting something out of the boot. Car unlocked OK but wouldn't lock. I used one of my spare keys to lock the car and then changed the CR2025 battery in the non-working fob. The failed 3V CR2025 battery read 2.7V on a meter. It was a Panasonic brand (Made in Indonesia !). I put in a new Varta one (3.2V) and re-synced it with the car as described in the user manual (no, the car alarm didn't sound as described in the manual when I did this). Key fob is now working again (and now there are 2 spare NEW Varta CR2025 batteries in the glove box !). As an aside, I started having a problem with my 13 year old Mazda 6 before I sold it when the fob would only unlock the car if a new battery (3.2V) was in the fob. If the voltage dropped to 3.0-3.1V it stopped working. Very annoying. Strangely it only started behaving this way after 12 years of trouble-free motoring.