Jim_bobs

UPDATE: Received and installed successfully. I had to route an ignition switched live from the fusebox, but that generally comes with the territory of installing electronic stuff. Other than that, all is good. This head unit has also allowed me to remove the dedicated DAB receiver I was using, as well as remove the hideous and bulky CD wallet from the glove box. All my entertainment is now coming through either DAB or USB. I haven't even bothered setting up the Bluetooth yet. There's a slight gap above the replacement surround, but I can live with that. I'm a happy bunny!

Ah, ok. That ties in with other posts I read about battery issues after fitting different head units. I think I'll go ahead and order the unit anyway. I guess I'll soon know if it causes any issues! 😄

OK, thank you. What was the issue relating to the gateway anyway, in terms of switching out a head unit? The Alpine unit I was looking at is £150. It has DAB and a USB port, which are the only two features I'm interested in. As a bonus, it has Bluetooth with hands free, and user selectable RGB lighting. It looks a bit dated, but I'm not bothered about that. https://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alpine-ute-204dab-mechless-dab-car-stereo-radio-bluetooth-mp3-flac-usb-aux The same store also sells the DIN adaptor kits.

Thanks for your help with this. The part number I have is 7N0907530AKZ00.

Thank you. The gateway fitted was a brand new one. I don't know which revision, unfortunately. I'd only be able to provide a part number here, which I suspect is unlikely to be of any use. 🤔

Hi all, Seems like the CD player on my OEM head unit has given up the ghost. So I'm looking to replace it with a single DIN Alpine unit. I've read through other posts where the author has stated issues with drained batteries, switched lives becoming seemingly permanent etc, and just wondered if there's anything I need to know before I order the new unit. In my mind, and having fitted a ton of aftermarket head units in older vehicles in the past, it should just be a plug and play scenario. But I fear it won't be that simple! For reference, my car is a 2006 model with no stalk/wheel controls for the stereo. It's also had the CANBUS Controller replaced within the last few months. Not sure if that makes a difference. Thanks in advance!

Try this map to locate the nearest ones to you. Clicking on a marker pin reveals that user's contact info. http://www.vcdsusers.uk/

Over time, electrical connections will just "fade", where dust and moisture in the air cause unprotected connecting surfaces to deteriorate, or in some cases oxidise. You can see evidence of this on cars that are several years old. Pull a fuse out, and the "faces" of the fuse legs will be discoloured and often grotty and rough to touch. Pulling and re-seating a fuse renews the connection. It could also be an indication of early corrosion in the fuse box. Either way, i'm glad you got the problem sorted!

If you're considering investing, steer clear of ebay and similar sites. Too many cases of false claims and people being ripped off with diagnostic stuff. Buy genuine Ross-Tech equipment direct from authorised sellers: Gendan: https://www.gendan.co.uk/category_145.html or Ilexa: https://www.ilexa.co.uk/diagnostic-tools/vag-com-vcds.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAqY3zBRDQARIsAJeCVxPhswyCPLqZG9CvgvoLIzHMbSR6rAb4Kb-1ZaocUMzCvxbxj2SgUMAaAtnUEALw_wcB are both great options. The kit isn't cheap, but it's no more expensive than the fake stuff on ebay, and at least you know you're getting the real deal. There are a few options available, and hopefully someone else will comment to advise you further about those. VIN licensing is also not something i'm familiar with. Diagnostic tools i've used in the past have not been restricted to a set number of vehicles. Sounds fishy to me, but maybe others can confirm or deny this?

Clearing codes is one thing. They will only stay cleared if the associated issues have been remedied. In other words, unless you fix the cause of any fault codes, they will be generated again the next time you start the engine or drive a short distance. Clearing codes isn't like resetting the service reminder light, for example. Regarding VCDS, it's more advanced for reading fault codes than your average code reader. For instance, a generic code reader might identify a general ABS issue. But VCDS will tell you which wheel has that issue. It can also change settings, reprogram modules etc. It's a comprehensive system, and people who have had experience with VCDS will always recommend it over a standard universal code reader. I don't have it. ...Yet. But i'm sure it's only a matter of time!

VCDS is the diagnostic system for Volkswagen Group vehicles. It's what dealerships use in the workshops. It's readily available for sale to anyone though. The map I linked in an earlier reply shows Briskoda users who either own or have access to VCDS. If you have a user fairly local to you, it's well worth getting in contact with them.

The map was compiled by Gizmo to show where known VCDS users are located. It doesn't show every Briskoda account holder. Hopefully the code reader will give us a clue tomorrow. This is turning out to be an intriguing problem!

I'm inclined to say that's either a failed relay (behind the fusebox in the dashboard), or - worst case, a failed instrument cluster. The fuel gauge isn't even moving when you turn the key. I think diagnostics might be the only option left if you've already replaced the battery and ignition switch. I don't know how long you've owned the car, but the IRS calibration stamp below the speedo means it was originally a police car. police workshops can be less than kind to vehicles during the decommissioning process. It's unlikely that it would interfere with your instruments, but the electrical system on the mk2 Octy is renowned for being... a little delicate. I had an ex police Volvo 10 years ago and had to spend two days rewiring the headlights and rear lights. Police had cut right through the wiring looms to remove flasher units! You might have a VCDS-equipped Briskoda user in your area. You can check here: https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?msa=0&mid=1Td73_uUUqscV3nRm5br_o89PmBU&ll=21.259901462991696%2C83.39240985000004&z=3

It may be worth seeing if you can jump start the car first. Refer to your owners manual for details to avoid further possible issues. If the jump start works, then it's a strong suggestion the battery is definitely at fault. Failing that, I would rather take the plunge and buy a new battery anyway to eliminate that from the list of possible causes. If jump starting and/or replacing the battery don't work, I think next steps are going to be diagnostics. Hopefully you can get in touch with a VCDS-equipped Briskodian on your area. You can check here: https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?msa=0&mid=1Td73_uUUqscV3nRm5br_o89PmBU&ll=21.259901462991696%2C83.39240985000004&z=3

IDK if your Scout is diesel or petrol, but CCA is more critical on diesel engines because they often have much higher compression, making them a lot harder to crank than petrol engines. Low or depleted CCA is usually the result of a "stratified battery", when acid concentration levels are lighter in the top of the battery, and heavy in the bottom. You end up with a higher open circuit voltage, making the battery appear healthy and fully charged. Meanwhile, the heavy concentration of acid in the bottom of the battery is causing sulphur build up around the lower sections of the plates, and this reduces your CCA. There are ways to try to correct the problem, but your overnight charge is a good place to start. Hopefully you'll give us good news tomorrow!