JamieH86

Hi all. Mk2 1.9 TFI estate. As of Saturday the boot switch seems dead. No noise of the motor trying to open at all, just dead. I wondered if it was a fuse but for the life of going through all the diagrams there doesn't seem to be one for the boot that I can see. Is there one? Is that a likely cause anyway?

Good cars. My own 1.9 TDI from 2005 is facing a big anniversary next year. Not only will be it be the big 2-0 years old but should also hit (around January/February) 250,000 miles. Still just needs wear and tear parts replacements.

Mine has always squeaked. I like it; when I hear it, it reminds me the motor still works.

Well this topic wasn't what I thought it was...

Well... for anyone interested, the hose seems to have been improperly replaced at some point. The lower part (towards the front of the car) was coming loose as the metal ring had been put in backwards (so the metal teeth were not sitting in their grooves as they were pointing the wrong way) and was not securing the hose. Ring in place properly now and the hose is tight and as there is no movement during driving, it has stopped rubbing the brake fluid wiring and is no longer wearing through (plus the small oil leak from the improperly fitted end has stopped).

Cheers. I can't think when anyone would have had to do that!

Ok engine code is BKC. I think it might be the intercooler hose possibly.

Sure what other info would you need? It's a 1.9 litre TDI as I mentioned but let me know if anything else is useful.

Hi all - 1.9 TDI from 2005 I have here... I have noticed the back of this pipe has been worn, possibly by the plastic wire clip about 1cm away from it (can't think what else it could be). Pictures of pipe and damage attached. Hasn't worn through, and I have patched it for now, but I have looked and tried the pinned thread but for the life of me can't find a part number for it. Does anyone know the number so I can get a proper replacement? (Unless people think a patch is sufficient!)

Yes I will do an Italian tune-up (as I believe it's called) as well.

Well not really...happy to say! I have no idea how it was cleaned, the mechanic did it.

If the car image flashes up when you disengage reverse then, and I am just guessing here, but could that be because the physical action has engaged something that was previously unengaged eg. a broken wire, split wire etc? Which can be made to connect with the right movement but otherwise will sit disconnected.

I assume as the heat is created electronically, could an element have gone, simple as that? Or some part of the circuit?

Just a sponge and washing up liquid.

Well the issue was... ...drumroll... ... dirty fuel injectors. Cleaned up and it's made quite a difference, even to "normal" driving, which hadn't been normal before but evidently I had got used to it.

Nor me, but a bit of Googling (no substitute for experience and a mechanic of course, but at a first glance...) does throw up "The engine may misfire due to the colder-than-normal cylinder head temperature. The engine may hesitate during acceleration". Which could be what I'm getting, somewhat, if I squint... The car has been serviced and all codes reset since this scan (May) and the problem hadn't recurred since then and until Monday (took the car out yesterday with no issues) so perhaps something new will appear on the scan I've got booked in tomorrow. Will update!

Thanks! I agree it seems like it would be more likely electrical than mechanical, as otherwise restarting the engine would not clear it. Looking at failing coil pack symptoms, I have not got any others other than this vibrating (eg no issues starting, no loss of power, fuel economy fine). However this did make me check a scan I had a couple of months ago with another issue (failing ABS pump, now replaced and fine) and there is this on there which I confess I just didn't look at at the time as the problem went away: 2.p0672 cylinder 2 glow plug circuit Could that be related?

Wonder if anyone ever looked at this? Didn't happen for two months then did again today... as before, after slowing for, and then leaving, a roundabout. Restarting the engine once again cleared it.

Well a small party won't hurt.

From my experience of having had several of these lately, I needed a new ABS pump (which contributed the ABS and ESP lights). However, if they have diagnosed sensor issues, I would ask how thorough their examination was. Some garages see the fault is in the sensor and then just replace the sensor - but what if the sensor is fine but the wiring is faulty? A split or snapped wire will register the same error and changing the sensor won't help. I'd go for a second opinion there; I have had a garage that did this the lazy way and when I asked "what about the wiring?" they just said, "well, where do you start?" "Can I have my key please so I can go somewhere else, thanks!" The light on the left just suggests a recent battery disconnexion which makes sense if work has been done, I think that should go on its own. The tyre pressure one may well be unrelated to the others, and just be a tyre pressure issue. Appearing at the same time could just be a coincidence that makes it seem like a bigger problem. Also belt up to get rid of the red one.

My god that's a nice clean engine (at least compared to mine!)...

In my case, the problem with the starter motor wasn't that it was not working in the sense it couldn't start the car, but it had an electrical fault (for more detail track down my mechanic from 2018!) that meant it put too much load on the battery, and the car was progressively harder to start until eventually the battery was flat and all the electrics died one day. However, when starting the motor with jump leads, you're connected to a car where the engine is already running and the battery is charging, so the faulty motor still gets sufficient power to start the engine. Basically the cause of my issue was the starter motor, but the actual symptoms were in my battery.

Yep I would say it is foolish to rule out the starter. I had this issue a few years ago and the starter was the cause. It was malfunctioning and draining the battery (and ended up ruining it). Car started fine on leads though, but that is not exactly a long-term solution!

Thanks, it is a minefield! Plus ebay is dodgy... put in your car for search results that fit and get a nice green tick, then click on the item and get "this does not fit" on the listing. Make your mind up, eBay!

That is great thanks. This often seems to be paired with 1K0907379P. Is one the pump and one the module? This seems to be one of the few that eBay says it is happy to say matches my vehicle, does this look right to you? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256520950894?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Cars+Type%3A1.9+TDI|Plat_Gen%3AMK+II|Cars+Year%3A2005|Model%3AOctavia|Variant%3ADiesel+Estate|Engine%3A1896cc+77KW+105HP+BJB%3BBKC%3BBLS%3BBXE|BodyStyle%3AFWD+II+1Z5|Variant%3ADiesel+Estate|Engine%3A1896cc+77KW+105HP+BJB%3BBKC%3BBLS%3BBXE|BodyStyle%3AFWD+II+1Z5&itmmeta=01HYV6DNQVVX8DQ0HR2E9EY565&hash=item3bb9d7146e:g:12UAAOSw241YlG3j&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABABJuJBm4n0cnmry%2FfrUNmPqhppQfs9a2ROJnl8J5c%2F0%2BsHuzNXCgKVjfg4LeWYarPP9cuLfm%2FdwULGqcqxw%2BaUzC6m5G6%2FxAi0VAmJ0RqaVHiP9ht%2BvxpzcH7cLZydSx%2FbRU2w3zEgY2lKIiJnJV%2FFbuyw6h9Zhz4WZkZas1sfRdR3WD61moXLL816KoMGL0HLGaBtfK82%2FGx%2BrdB4k%2FKF%2FmnyslnwMHLiPa%2BftMao8JHvZplZHJju%2BN32xa2OXalc5iS3IXW0kac8fzjM9sQeooT6jTBXUflxSMXOc%2F8YTxAD5UCipP1zTvTKg32PWZAvACptS9Skv4IpPBdw0t788%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_7btub2Yw