munchkincoupe

No error codes stored.............. I've done a tank of premium diesel and it does seem to be better. I did the previous 2 tanks with Forte Injector cleaner but this seems better now?!?!

Got a code reader on the way so will see if anything is stored

Sounds like a have a similar issue to you but not as severe. I had one morning about 2 months ago where I started her cold and it chugged down the street with what I would describe as a misfire. I pulled over, turned her off and back on again - hasn't done that again since. The main issue is a lumpy idle with some hesitancy when I push the turbo in. Had glow plugs done at last service as was flagging up glow plugs on dash. Mine is low mileage 2010 on 77k, not been mapped and had 2 belts services now. I've run 2-3 tanks with decent injector cleaner and no change. Next on my list is injector loom but I haven't done a code read yet I also have the power dip going over hills but that seems to be a common feature on these

Thanks anyone got VCDS on here in Wiltshire area?

most of the guides I can find are for PD engine not the CR like mine

Hello - Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to change the injector wiring loom on my 2010 2.0tdi VRS please? Car has slightly rough idle and when I ease off the throttle it almost feels like a subtle misfire but it is isn't. Feels fine when accelerating. I've tried Forte injector cleaner for the last 2 tank fulls with no improvement Has had new glow plugs at last service and it's on 77k miles

Do you have a sunroof? could be the drain is blocked in the roof or at the door hinge end and it is moving around in the sunroof aperture

Thanks for the replies much appreciated

Hello all Just need a bit of advice please? My facelift 2.0tdi VRS manual has a high bite point and just started to show occasional slipping. It is on 69k miles, has the original clutch as far as I am aware and is a CEGA engine code. The car has been well maintained and had the belts/pumps done at 34k (6yrs old) by previous owner. I've had a few performance cars before and I think the previous owner may have had a subtle remap done to the car. I'm looking to book her in for a new clutch later this month but have a few questions please: 1) lots of deals from parts suppliers at the moment - should I go LUK, Sachs or a different clutch kit? 2) should the DMF need replacing now too / should I do it anyway? 3) what DMF is fitted as standard - LUK, Sachs?!? 4) Can you put an LUK DM flywheel in with a Sachs clutch without issues? Thanks for any advice offered

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but after the deluge of rain today I got into my car at work - it was parked slightly nose down. When I backed it up water ran all over my left foot for 30-40 secs. Got home and found this thread. Checked the sunroof and both of the drains were blocked and some of the sunroof mechanism was rusty too - probably been blocked for a while. I also think this may be part of the problem with early rust at the back of my front arches as this drain may have been constantly dripping for years. Milked the nipples - flushed through - loads of crap came out. Oiled the sunroof mechanism whilst there too Thanks for the above advice

Hi all Would a 2009 VRS saloon interior fit straight into a 2010 FL VRS estate without any issues? Thanks for any help

Hello all My first post so sorry it's a negative one First I need to say that the car is a great drive and has been really looked after mechanically - full service history, early belts/pump change, brand new disc/pads/tyres all round. Interior is great apart from a bit of drivers seat bolster wear. I also think it may have had a slight remap but I am ok with that. The clutch may need doing in the next 6k miles but that is it. My 2010 race blue VRS TDi estate FL has some minor arch rust bubbling on all 4 arches and the front/underside of the side sills - the side sills being the worst. The arch bubbling is no more than 2-3cm long and less than 1cm back from the edge of the arches in its worst areas. The side sills are the worst with some paint flaking off on both sides extending back approx 12cm from the leading edge. I bought the car from an independent dealer in Scotland just before lockdown. Foolishly I got a flight up there from the Southwest after asking lots of Q's and getting pics before I went - I spotted the undeclared rusty bits when I got there and got them to further reduce the price on the car by £400 but hadn't realised the full extent of the cost to fix it at a body shop. I've been quoted £200ish per corner for a trade-spec job or £2k to fully do the sides and tailgate, panels off, etc!!!!!!!!. I must add that since getting the car I removed the screwed on rear dealer plates to find multiple screw holes in the tailgate from previous plates being screwed on that have all got rust around them now too - the worst being the original plate square apertures that have a radius of flaking paint of about 4-5cm. The tailgate quote is £200ish for a trade job or all in as part of the £2k quote for more extensive repair. Obviously I am not going down the 2k route as the car I paid £6k for her. My solution is to degrease, strip + sand back, Bilt hamber hydrate and then paint a letter-box shaped section myself to do the numberplate issue - can anyone recommend a product / technique for filling the cavity through the holes please as I am sure there must be fluid/rust in there now from the open holes? I normally stick plates on if the bumpers or rear end parts are metal! The car is pretty low mileage (60k) so I intend to keep it for a couple of years and I am fully versed in car detailing, minor maintenance, etc but I have never done any bodywork before. I would be prepared to jack the car up, take the arch liners out and treat the rear side of the panels, arches, etc. but still think I would need a bodyshop to do the exterior. I'm getting to the main point........ to get the best job done would I be best sourcing something like these to replace the rusted areas and get some peace of mind going forwards and will these parts fit my VRS facelift estate? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-OCTAVIA-2-2004-2013-FRONT-WING-REPAIR-PANEL-SET-OF-2-PAIR/274365245696 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Octavia-2-2004-2013-Limo-und-Kombi-Voll-Schweller-Reparaturblech-Rechts/264502137507?hash=item3d958e52a3:g:nPUAAOSwGbhdus8D https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-OCTAVIA-1-1996-2010-FULL-SILL-REPAIR-PANEL-ROCKER-PANEL-SET-OF-2-PAIR/273810616852?hash=item3fc0627214:g:KnAAAOSwijBduuBO I don't think I would get any comeback from Skoda re: anti-corrosion as the panels aren't perforated and I think the car may have had some minor paintwork before (ie, keyed correction) as there are some tell-tales but it is structurally untouched If anyone can recommend a bodyshop in the Bath/Bristol/Reading area please let me know I can post pics too if that helps with advice being given Thanks for any advice fellas - much appreciated