Taz1983

Refitted everything before the new gaskets / bolts come. Sounded horrible at first, turned it off, started again and runs fine. The glowplug harness disintegrated so I've got a new genuine one coming. Does anybody know where it connects? Does the ECU need to come out to wire it in?

The concept is sound I think but once something goes wrong or the car isn't driven in perfect driving conditions (I'd say long motorway runs so everything burns off), the system does this. It is an old car mind, I expect it to get dirty again but not to this extent again

Scraped out what I felt was loose in the head, engine was a bit reluctant to turn over at first but rotated through all 4 injectors firing so the engine isn't seized in any way. Going to take my time cleaning up all the parts and ordered new bolts and gaskets. Should run well once done!

The Mk2 octavia is a Mk5 golf underneath, not a Mk4

Is it safe to clean out the ports on the head?

Inlet manifold is now off. Struggled with access to the 6mm bolts but perservered. I'll attach photos, but the inlet is clearly completely full. It seems to me that there just wasn't enough airflow to even turnover. Not sure how to approach cleaning the ports. Is it safe for me to scrape them or not? Maybe try burn some of the crap off?

Glow plugs I'm afraid to snap them, so it's going to be a few days of plusgas / attempting to turn them. I suspect you're right, brake cleaner hasn't evaporated. I'll update once I've got the glow plugs out / changed the inlet Thankyou for your help it's much appreciated

It reluctantly tried to start, but it only managed what sounded like 1 rotation (if that), like it can't overcome whatever it's trying to compress. Could the garbon gunk be enough to prevent starting? I believe there might be quite a lot down at the bottom of the inlet manifold. Once I have all the parts I'll take the inlet off then try rotate the engine by hand

It doesn't turn over, maybe cranks once (I tried it 3 times, so it hasn't turned over much if at all). I used brake cleaner, I'd have thought it'd evaporate sufficiently. The air intake being the throttle body? I can check this with VCDS. Would that cause similar symptoms to this? Could the new EGR be the cause of the issue? I checked the oil, it's dirty (due a change, I do it every 6k), but isn't thin or watery. The level seems normal. I'm going to clean up a spare intake manifold, refit it all and ensure everything is as clean as I can get it without going in the engine. I'm soaking the glow plugs everyday for a few days. There's a local garage who I might approach to see if they'd remove them for me.

Is there any other way to get fluid out of the engine without removing the glow plugs or injectors? The glow plugs are obviously one I'd much prefer avoiding right now!

I'm almost certain everything is connected, I've had things apart a few times, but I'll check again. I cleaned as much of the inlet manifold as I could, a lot has surely fallen down. There was I'd say 1cm of buildup on all the surfaces, I did scrape quite a lot inside the manifold, I'm not sure how much would prevent the car from starting. The EGR is new. I've ordered a used manifold to clean up before taking mine off so can stick one straight on. Would taking the glow plugs out and turning the car over be wise to do once the clean manifold is on? Is it worth changing anything else while it's all apart? It's likely the last time this car will see this kind of job

Thanks everyone. I changed the EGR, cleaned as much as I could in the manifold, but now the car won't start. It turns over, I tried 3 times. I suspect I've got gunk down below, stopping the car from starting. Hoping I haven't bent a valve, I'll take it all off again tomorrow. I'll probably renew as much as I can while it's all off

Hi guys, on cue my car has thrown another challenge at me. I enjoy it! I've had a bit of a low rev boost issue for a few months, maybe over a year, where it stutters. No EML. Last week the EML did come on, and VCDS points to low EGR flow. I've checked all the hoses from the control valve unit, they all look fine, and I've changed the control unit for a known working one. Before the EML came on, the turbo was more audible, which took a couple of weeks for the EML to show. I haven't cleared the codes since changing the control unit, but as the turbo still whistles more than it used to, I'm 99% sure it isn't cured. So I'm thinking, rebuild the EGR with new seals, or could it be something else? I have a complete turbo unit I could get refurbed, but the car doesn't seem to have changed how it's boosting. I know it's not perfect, but the thing is old and I'd assume it's likely the VNT that has coked up. Open to suggestions, if it needs something new I'm happy to pay!

I change everything, all filters, fuel filter etc. Belts are 3 years old, clutch is similar, FWIW. I do around 15k a year, so 6000 works out around 5 months.

Hey all, I've got a 1.9 tdi, more or less (touch wood), gives me reliable service, but I do think it needs some attention in some areas. I get a bit of a lumpy flutter when I do full throttle in a high gear, like there's a boost leak somewhere. It does sound like there is aswell, but nothing too loud. I wondered where the best place to start would be on resolving this? There is some smoke aswell, if I do full throttle in a lower gear. Nothing too excessive, but more than I think it should be producing. I service the car every 6000 miles so wouldn't put anything down to lack of service. I've considered if the injectors may need some TLC. There is a small tick I get, doesn't sound like all injectors, just one. Is it worth trying an additive, or are they all snake oil? I changed the loom a year ago (genuine), and the car isn't misfiring. Everything does seem to get rather oily in the intake system, but I think this is likely to be turbo seals - I'm not against replacing the turbo, I have a spare I can get rebuilt, but is this unnecessary? I intend to keep the car for the foreseeable, there isn't anything I could replace it for the cost. Anything else preventative worth looking at I'd welcome!

Just wanted to add to this thread that I came here when my belt was still squeezing even after changing the tensioner. I bought a used alternator , took under an hour all in to swap (1z 1.9) and squeel has gone. Everyone I asked was convinced it'd be the crank pulley. Now going to refurb the old alternator as a spare. Cheers all

Hey all Have a facelift MK2 wheel fitted, only thing I find annoying is the volume controls are on the left, whereas the earlier wheels had them on the right. Did any markets get the MK2 wheel with them on the right I could source from? I do find it a bit odd they never did them in the UK with the controls the other way round given the earlier wheels did! Cheers!

As above, I have had the doorcard off today, saw where the water falls through, dried it out with some alcohol and gave it a good clean, then sealed along the edge and up the sides a bit.

Bled to a perfect pedal but still think the clutch isn't fully disengaging. Probably been like that for a long time!

Just get RCD330 and be done with it!

I've done 3 good bleeds this morning, there are no bubbles coming out. I still have a small amount of travel at the top end, but other that the pedal feels good. Biting point is still low - am I looking at forks / release bearing?

Thanks - really all I haven't done is pushing the pedal a few times then bleeding again. I'll do that tomorrow. Atleast I have a consistent pedal so I think it'll come back eventually

Yep. Did a fair few cycles. I will do some more in the morning

Hello everyone My clutch pedal wouldn't come up 2 weeks ago, but then recovered for a week and then finally gave up. I've changed the master and slave, the pedal is back and other than the small amount of travel right at the top of the pedal, it feels fine. The biting point however is nearer to the floor now, and whilst it isn't low enough to fail disengaging, it doesn't feel "right". Assuming I've bleed correctly - (I'll give this another go, I have loads of fluid), does this point to something else? I.e. clutch? I had the DMF and clutch changed around 3 years ago, SACHS parts so wouldn't expect anything to fail yet. If it means clutch out again it is what it is, but I thought I'd gauge some opinions first. Cheers