ruida_silva

Yeah normally me neither but it’s all a mad rush to get to the nearest roundabout, during a busy period I sort of just got used to turning the car on, wait a few seconds then go. if it’s the EA211 then it’s the same design. its just not normally a sound I heard from any other cars with this kit but it’s probably just how it’s all designed

It's probably just a characteristic of these engines. If I can simply wait several seconds for the cold start to finish then I don't mind. My old car used to have like a 2 minute cold start and I wasn't gonna wait that long while traffic builds up on the estate haha. if the car is warm or even after the cold start is done, at 1100 RPM I get hardly any sound but on cold start it's very in your face. No underground carpark and everything else is standard. Yeah I agree it's just a consequence but these engines are fairly common and I've seen a lot modifying them but no complaints about aftermarket induction kits, maybe people like the sound it makes on a cold start, idk

Tough crowd on the Octavia groups eh haha. It for some reason lasts longer when I drive away so I'm wooshing away out of the car park like I have a broken car, I almost put the factory box back on or even modified it. The problem isn't how loud it is in general, it's how unecessarily and obnoxiously loud it is when I'm simply driving out of the car park with feather like pressure on the throttle at like 10 mph. Hard acceleration is fine as that's what I want it for (car always gets up to temp before this if I ever fancy doing it).

I like tasteful modifications so when the induction sounds like it does on a cold start, it definitely isn't for me haha. I'm not the usual hooner making a load of noise, just like a bit of something to enjoy the car a bit more

No it isn't right but it's awful I'm not sure how people live with it. I've checked all the connections. No MAF sensor, it was simply remove some piping, install silicone and filter and done. I thought a completely different type of cone would change it but didn't I won't lie, before I made this post I didn't realise how short the cold start was, seems to only last like 15-20 seconds so I will just wait before driving off instead of messing about disabling it. Not sure how long it will be in the winter.

I have a EA211 1.4 TSI 150 ACT in my car although not an Octavia. I recently fitted an induction kit and on cold start it sounds absolutely ridiculous, really loud sucking noise at high idle and when simply driving out of a parking spot and driving out of the carpark it constantly wooshes like I've just done a pull on full boost, even though I'm hardly using throttle and low revs. It's embarrassing and I constantly get weird looks from colleagues lol. This only happens if it's a cold start though, if the car was used up to a few hours before me leaving work it's perfectly quiet as it should be, so can I simply disable the cold start procedure? I know some people get this done on some performance cars but I'm not sure if I'd get issues with this engine. And if someone can tell me how to do this using the Car Scanner ELM app that would be great. Edit: It's a Forge open foam cone filter and I've tried using a pleated RAMAIR one and it made 0 difference to the sound Thanks

Ah okay, then it could probably be the pump on the way out but can't guarantee as I've never had the issue

Has the battery been changed recently? Not sure if it's the exact same problem but for me it was when I turned my car on I'd have no power steering at all and it was the battery. Does it go a bit stiffer when driving, do you lose all power steering completely when driving or is the issue only when you start the car up?

Well I care hence why I’m asking. Don’t like the standard bulbs they’re awful

Ok not after stupidly bright ones. I had some halfords ones in my Fabia that were perfect. The current ones in my Ibiza are like candles

Posting on here as I’m at my wits end and the Seat clubs aren’t much helot. I’m trying to get some LED bulbs in my 2016 Ibiza. I’ve tried 3 different Canbus sets from HIDsDirect and none of them work and they’re confused too I’ve attached a picture of what my light units look like and the error that I get (02564 trailer left lamp) which doesn’t make sense I’d happily live with the error on my dash but the problem is the car turns the bulbs off when the error comes up so I have no choice. TIA IMG_9934.dng IMG_9935.dng IMG_9936.dng

Type in autotrader used car index and there’s your graph. The graph represents an average price of used cars The red and blue lines I drew are as I said, resistance and support lines. If you don’t understand that then I can’t possibly explain on here, as I mentioned if people know trading/forex/crypto then those people would understand what those lines represent. But basically, the price went up as high as it did, came down slightly, went back up but no more than before, making that red resistance line more true (a double top sort of thing, google it) As I said at the end, I don’t know WHEN it will happen, so the green line, which I could only draw on that bit of room at the end of the graph, is the prediction of what could happen in 3 months, 6 months maybe over a year. And no that isn’t an obvious prediction as everything that depreciates goes down eventually, but not to the extend that I think it will and hopefully within the next year

I also enquired about 0% finance with stoneacre but decided against as you need 50% deposit and the obvious thing of the prices being a few thousand over

That as well, way too many bills that are too expensive for people to be justifying the prices they are now. I’m in a position where I didn’t buy a car expensive enough to make profit on now so it’s not like I’m getting over priced money for my car to put towards an over priced car. Instead the deposit will have to be out of my own pocket. There will be a lot of other people in this situation that may get something that will hardly lose value, thus reducing demand for those higher priced used cars

In terms of stock being kept hidden away, I’m not sure that will make that much of a difference as before covid, we had a similar number of adverts on Autotrader. Yes there are hundreds, thousands of cars been kept to control the supply but if the supply is the same as before covid I can’t see why that would be a big factor

That’s true, dealers have already paid a good amount and there is money tied up in cars but I’m seeing adverts sat for weeks and months, I’ve even managed to knock off £500 off a £10k car with 2 years warranty without hassle. big dealers may have paid a lot but still under what current market values so there is room for negotiation. As soon as a car is gone, the money is no longer tied up and as they sell, they’ll be buying them cheaper and cheaper so the money tied up will be less and less in theory. If a lot of private sellers wanted to cash in on the conditions, then other private sellers and dealers will be forced to have competitive pricing, that’s just my thinking. If enough undercut the market, others will have to follow suit back down to a new norm

I've just posted my own theory to agree with the title of this post. Not watched any of the videos yet. See if you agree, should be the latest reply on page 2:

TLDR: Waterfall in car prices at some point, don't know when, hopefully soon So I have a bit of a theory with these car prices. Does anyone here trade/crypto/do forex and knows what support and resistances are? Well for example if you look at the auto trader price index you see the graph go way high due to covid, now it's sort of sitting between a range boucing up and down off what I would say a support and resistance area. In trading when any of those lines are broken you can usually see a rocket or a waterfall. On the screenshot, Red line is resistance, Blue line is support, Green line is what I think it will do. The graph is over a big time frame so it doesn't look like is bouncing that much but if you were to do it over the daily, I bet you'd see it go up down up down between those lines. Can't change time frame though Reasons the price is high: Talk - people saying "Oh car prices are incredibly high" this talk helps keep prices high as it's an expectation Retail buyers - People still buying cars for the high price they are, helps keep them high Supply - Don't agree with this as much as on autotrader, before covid we had a very similar number of adverts regardless of whether there is a load of stock sitting in a yeard by the big companies to control supply These above, to me are simply not strong enough to keep prices high, there needs to be something else solid to support it so I'd call these reasons a weak support, like you would in trading Reasons the price should break that support and come crashing down: Fuel prices are still high, performance car owner's belts had to get tighter. Government might put the 5p tax back on top and then increase it further if they want Mortgage rates, in the past year there will have been people with nice cars and houses have their fixed interest come to an end, get a new much higher rate and have to tighten belts Energy costs, we all know how high they are, even higher bills for everyone General cost of living New car deliveries getting quicker and quicker with more deals being released At some point, a small influx of people will take advantage of these high prices because they're struggling and need the cash, that sudden influx will break that price support and then you'll see everyone follow suit in a panic because their car has just lost a grand in value, so everyone then lists theirs for sale, supply then drastically overtaking the demand. If anybody has every heard of the Crypto called Luna, this is kinda the same. Very valuable coin, but in the background not very stable or well supported (like the reasons I mentioned above for used car prices to still be high). Kinda like an empire state building being held by a single brick pillar. Blackrock sell billions of Bitcoin, sends everything all over the place and that very unstable support for Luna suddenly desintegrates, down it comes from £80 a coin to a fraction of a penny. I believe same will happen for used car prices... I just don't know when. Thanks for reading

I agree there are cars that are good and last a long while such as yours. Having finished reading that thread toot posted about the warranty issues, I can say that as a family man I can’t possibly think it’s a good idea. Don’t mind forking out for repairs but when the 2 main and most expensive parts in the car are unreliable and not even warranty can be counted on I will have to pass up on the VRS entirely. Shame, love the look of them and would’ve had a lot of fun. I’ve thanked the seller for their time and patience and why I’ve been put off

Thanks toot you’re a fountain of information. I will be looking for 2013 onwards as I want that second facelift with new steering wheel and badges. I’ll be sure to look through 1.2 tsi threads. Thanks again… something tells me I’ll be introducing a VRS in the future even if it’s a bad idea 😂

Ref check will tell me whether it’s a 105 so no issue there. I assume the lesser ones have worse brakes too right? And is the chain tensioner upgrade a factory thing or am I just checking invoices that they’ve had it done?

I didn’t want to pay too much for a car I don’t want to keep for ages. If the TDI is indeed a write off when they take it away and inspect Tuesday, I just wanted a car that’s nice enough that wasn’t a complete down grade to keep me happy for 12/18 months. Are the MK2 1.2s a nightmare as well then? I’ve seen a Tech and a black edition near me And is there 2 1.2 TSIs?

Yeah for the money I might go to a 1.2 TSI Monte or try and find a nice polo possibly with the 1.4 tsi. Didn’t want to buy another diesel. Market is that bad nothing is worth the money

I say I’ll call REVO/APR as that is what Lucifer said to use in case of mapping and APR normally have technicians that can answer calls and give you advice so thought it would be good. In terms of the warranty, maybe instead of just buying the warranty I would ask questions about to confirm certain things in what is covered and what not. That person isn’t that thread was obviously in the right and had a valid claim but there were a lot of issues. If I at least ask questions that confirm major issues such as gearbox and engine are definitely covered and have email proof, I at least have that to keep peace of mind. Maybe even see if they can do a pre warranty inspection and tick off that the car is fine so I don’t have them saying the fault was there before warranty was took when I run into problems

I really want one, I’ve got wheels, RCD330, auto light switch and other bits to go into another Fabia but it’s starting to sound like a silly idea