ruida_silva

Weird you say that because mine is the same... If I press down nothing happens, if I press and hold, the cruise just stops working until I release the button again. As for the speed up button, pressing it only increases the speed by like 0.1 MPH at a time, but pressing and holding increases it nicely as it should

Sorry this question got lost. Some people remove theirs. I removed and listed mine simply because it doesn't quite fit back with my upgraded intercooler but since it didn't sell I may try and fit it back to protect anything under there from rust. Very cheap to buy from any breakers, mine was up for £10 and never sold. Part number is: 600825237AB for your car which assume is a MK2 1.2TDI 2012 Monte Carlo

Yeah it's not exactly a massive transformation. I don't rag the car often enough to see the benefit of the anti wheel hop but I do get traffic every morning and the massive reduction in the joltig when lifting off in first is a nice change

Tthat's good. He shouldn't really need to worry then. He probably needs to go and do a nice hot journey but can't imagine he'll need to do it often

Exactly, tip of the mountain has to come soon followed by an avalanche of stock to be sold and prices coming down. Just hope that happens very soon

I've seen a lot stay on sale and gradually come down in price. Only the cheaper ones seem to go quick. Looks like people are being stubborn and demanding top money when they're not worth that and every week I see some advert prices dropping. If they don't drop then they stay that same price for weeks and weeks. I've seen someone on the owners groups sell a farly stunning, low mileage leon cupra for 26k like 2 months ago and it's now 24k and still for sale. It's arguably the nicest cupra I've seen, yet I'm seeing buyer reluctance to even pay that much, which is great. Tbh, unless I'm desparate or find the absolute perfect one, 17-18k will be a reluctant buy. To me, they'll be another year older and can't justify paying yesteryear's prices just because of demand and covid.

This may not be useful to you, but not living near a motorway or not living near enough fast roads to get a car hot for a while make a diesel a very bad purchase, especially if it has a DPF. I'm not familiar with these so I don't know if they do but if they do have a DPF they you will have problems throughout your ownership. In my 1.6tdi owners manual I need minimum 4th gear and stay above 2k revs for the DPF to start regenerating. If you can't do this with a hot car then I'm afraid you will have issues As above though, the 1.4 is a 3 cylinder and 3 cylinders in generaly whether it be petrol or diesel are quite rough and lumpy so it could just be you're not used to the engine yet. Might be worth posting a video so we can hear exactly how it sounds

Managed to fit the Powerflex PFF85-620R bush to my car over the weekend, here's my findings: - Increased cabin vibration while idling, which tbh is only slightly noticed, no extra vibration while driving. Will update after 500 miles Update: after 1000 miles I've basically forgotten about that extra vibration, still there but I got used to it - No more wheel hop when wheel spinning - Drastically reduced jerking/jolting when lifting off in 1st gear in traffic. A stiffer bush (Yellow/Purple?) will probably remove this entirely but I'm happy Here's some tips to fit it: - I soaked the area around the bolts in penetrating fluid twice, 2 days prior to fitting this and they came out without any effort, maybe too easy... - Avoid using a hacksaw unless you have a vice, even then, I'd still perfer to drill a hole on both side and use a pair of cutters. Cutters alone are probably quicker than hacksawing - When fitting the whole mount back in. a mallet comes in very handy as the bush stands proud on both sides and the mount needs to be hit back in to line up with the hole in the subframe - I didn't use a vice or press to fit the new bush in just my hands and body weight but it did take some force. A flathead screwdriver came in handy I did buy new bolts but the old ones were still in fairly good nick with minimal rust New bolts were then tightened to the following torque specs: - Subframe: 40nm + 1/4 turn or 90 degrees - Transmission bolts: 30nm + 1/4 turn or 90 degrees Hopefully I put enough keywords in this so that anyone can find it easily in the future

I will say my fabia's headlights are pretty crap but the standard lights I had before were slightly better than my monte carlo ones though, regardless of the full beam setting which is a joke on the montes. I do have 150% Halfords bulbs which is probably why because they're most likely not 150%. One reason I liked the fabia is because I wanted projectors for ages so I can use an LED/HID kit (Yes I know they're illegal...), yet my two previous cars with reflectors had better output but again, both of those had nighbreakers.

Maybe this attachment? I've had this in my basket for probably nearly 2 year and never bought one so can't comment but I bet it would do the job: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nifogo-Attachment-Flexible-Keyboard-Cleaners/dp/B085NS3XJY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2I8UJ7YTSOWIT&keywords=hoover+straw&qid=1666872532&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjYxIiwicXNhIjoiMi40NiIsInFzcCI6IjIuMjMifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=hoover+straw%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-3

As above, I'd just top it up to the appropriate level but only if you feel it's not as smooth as it should be. I did this a few months ago as I was having an issue with it but turned out to be the battery. Here's some instructions First you may have to remove the intake pipe/tube that goes between your air box and your front bumper grill where air gets scooped in. Secondly the battery has to be removed as well as the base it sits in. This was a bit of a problem for me as the nut that screws in the base towards the back was completely rusted and so I had to break that tab from the battery base (Still secures fine without issues) Then you'll see the reservoir with a green lid. when you top up, the lid has a dipstick attached to it and it'll tell you the level when you screw it all the way in and back out, top up until it reaches that level and put everything back. The fluid you need can be found in halfords, enter your reg and there should only be 2, the proper one and a halfords own brand one. Get whichever you desire Hope this helps

Similar boat as you. I had a spreadsheet which I made in 2019 with a somewhat accurate prediction of what the prices will be in 3 years time (2022) of the cars I would be interested in buying and they're well off. I was hoping an M140i would be about 18k this year for a shadow edition with pro nav etc but they're at least 24k. I've also been tracking Autotrader adverts/prices for the last 2 months on several cars/models and I've found they've not changed neither, apart from total cars for sale has gone up by nearly 20k, but I'm only 2 months in. Don't see me finding any quick cars for under 18k and good spec next year by the looks of it, so the fabia will probably be getting an overhaul next summer to make me enjoy driving it a bit more.

I get all my part numbers from here https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/

I figured it out now (phew). The linked top mounts have 3 mounting holes which are for a pre facelift or MK1, on the diagram, number 2 is in fact a top mount bearing. The fact that numbers 4, 2 and 19 looked nothing like the top mount I linked was causing me a whole lot of confusion. Thanks to an AutoDoc strut tutorial on a facelift Polo 5 I can rest easy now knowing what that whole top assembly looked like. I've annotated the video screenshots below in case anyone else gets confused

Thanks for that, I suppose I just thought since there's so many other bits on the current assembly, then they also need to be done. I'll contact Koni to check if they come with smaller bump stops. Do you know if the linked top mount is the right one? Thanks

Hi everyone, at some point I'll be changing the shocks and springs on my facelift MK2 for a set of Koni ones but was wondering if there's anything else I need. I know new top mounts with bearings are a must and potentially shorter drop links from a MK1 Mondeo apparently? But is there anything else that I need to buy new to change like bump stops or anything? Looking on the ETKA link below, there looks to be quite a few parts making up the front shock assembly, such as, number 5, 7, 20, 4, 2, 19, 9 and 3, and the only things on my list to buy are the shocks, springs and top mounts. Does a new top mount and bearing replace several of those numbers? I've also highlighted the parts in a picture for easier reference. TIA Link to top mount assembly, if they're the right ones for a facelift : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313072968010 https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2011-697/4/411-411001/

Hi and welcome, I've highlighted the part numbers you need but after a google and ebay search there aren't many options, maybe cheapest I found quickly was around £250. If I'm not mistaken, the second part number is for a monte as the splitter and side trims are gloss black so it would match the "black magic pearl effect" description but not sure why the one above says monte carlo instead. Eitherway, good luck

Thanks for the bump, very interesting indeed but I assume it's only on the VRSs or models with a TC button right? My elegance doesn't have one 😞

I don't have any information for the picture you attached but at 30 miles a day, frequent regens is common especially if you're at high mileage. Mine probably wants to regen every week or so but without the DPF light. I do the same mileage as you, 15 miles to and then 15 miles from work but I have the previlege of opting for either motorway or country lanes. To ensure your DPF regens even before the light comes on make sure you drive in 4th gear above 2k RPM as much as you can, on the motorway 5th is fine as 70mph is around 2.1k RPM. Use the car like it has a 4 speed gearbox unless on the motorway. You also need to ensure the car is warm, when regenerating even without the DPF light you'll see oil temp hitting 100 degrees even in the winter and it'll idle at 1k revs. Try and pick a route where you'll be travelling at the highest speed when the car is hottest. For example on the way to work I have plenty of road to get the car hot before going on the motorway, but on the way back from work the car won't even be hot enough by the time I get off the motorway. Hope this helps

Not sure if someone's already said it here (I had a quick scan) or if you already found out but if your car is a TDI/TDCI/CDTI etc then it is turbocharged. The T stands for Turbo

Christ this is a weird one. I'll skip over the obvious issues people have mentioned. I've just had both my track rod ends replaced as well as both inner rods. I couldn't get one of the ends off myself as it was completely seized and wouldn't unscrew so had to buy fresh inner rods and just took it to a garage for it all to be fitted and alligned

Now this isn't recommended due to legal reasons but for half the price you can get the egr blanked off with the DPF gutted while improving driveability/response and economy etc. It's a very tempting option although illegal

Did those inner from GSF fit? I hate ECP for the same reason, always different fitment detail it's annoying. I went to GSF for lwoer ball joints, one size and fit, same for track rod ends which are to be fitted saturday but thought I'd get the inners too and having the same dilemma with sizes. Thanks

Okay then, I’ll take your advice and get some nighttbreakers. How much is the average cost to get headlights set correctly?

No I understand that lol, but the Monte Carlo headlights are already crap or is it the full beams that people complain about. Anyway the only option to actually see clearly from many other owners is a HID kit