flickyspinny

And to update, yes it did work.

The replacement sensor arrived today. Don't know if it's worked yet because it's too warm to check. Anyway, a few photos on where the sensor is and how to access it. If you remove the fusebox cover from the drivers side, you can see the sensor tucked away in the dark space above the silver bracket. Photo of general area and close-up here: To get access to the area, open the cubby-hole by the driver's right knee. Using a screwdriver gently lever it so that it opens out completely. This gives you access to 4 torx screws that need to be undone to remove the whole assembly. There is one larger torx screw underneath the dash (not pictured) that also needs to be removed. It's pretty obvious which one, once you've undone the other four. Now you can look up and see the sensor. Simply turn it 90 degrees and it will drop out. Disconnect the connector, put the new one on, and replace it. Refitting is a reversal of dismantling. Next picture is of the cross-shaped hole where the sensor would sit. Photo after is the sensor in position. I really hope this works...

Finally got around to looking further at this, and courtesy of this I decided to check out the temperature sensor on the drivers side. The video below shows roughly what the temperature sensors look like. Of course, on the Skoda they're an actual PITA to access (particularly the left hand side) so I couldn't swap them over to test them. https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/right-temperature-flap-fault-code.9458984/ However, I did get check the resistivity and got a reading back of 1345 ohms. Based on the video above, that seems very low, which might mean that the sensor is reading a very high temperature which means that the heating doesn't do anything on the drivers side unless I ask it for full heat. Replacement sensor ordered, hopefully that'll solve the issue. If it does, I suspect that the error reported above about the error for the left temperature flap could be completely unrelated.

I'd just do what I did which was to replace your springs with new OEM ones to the same standard. My bet is they're old and have sagged. You're really not going to know whether it's going to work until you do it, and this is the simple and most logical starting point. I suspect that if you start putting on springs from a standard you're going to wind up with the back higher than the front and looking a bit weird, but I have no experience of GL and if this may mess something up. If i causes an issue then do what Chimaera did and fit some auxillary springs.

Mines a standard and was sitting 25mm lower than spec with half a tank of fuel and two child seats in the back and a towbar. Replaced with OEM Skoda springs for standard and problem solved. That's just weird. Were they OEM springs?

Your springs have sagged. Mine was sitting 25mm below standard. Replaced spring with OEM, now sitting exactly where it should be.

Update - issue seems to be confined to drivers side... the passenger side is working fine. OK, so a very generous local member has scanned my car for me and I have the following fault: 9473138 - Motor for Left Temperature Flap B108C 54 [009] - Missing Calibration / Basic Setting Seems weird that I believe this is located in the passenger footwell (RHD) to control the drivers heat, but looks like that's what I'm going to go with for the moment. Will keep this updated.

Thank you ever so much Wokwon. That's probably the most comprehensive response I've ever received to anything on the internet. I'm currently liaising with a very generous local briskoda member who has VCDS to get a scan and will work from there. I'll keep this thread updated as I make progress.

Thanks Wokwon, much appreciated. 1) - I think this needs to be my next port of call 2) I've recalibrated the climatronic and will go for a drive this evening to see if that's improved things. 3) I'm in the UK so I don't think my (manual) car has the electric booster. If it did I'd expect fairly much instant heat from when the car is turned on, which I don't get 4) I've also come from Japanese cars, but last winter I was driving about in UK winter temperatures and the only way to get the car warm was to run the heating on max, otherwise cool air just got blown so I think the car genuinely has an issue. 5) When I turn recirculate on an off I can hear things moving and the noise changes significantly, so I don't think that's the cause. Have you ever heard of defective / broken cabin temperature sensors? I'm sure I saw a post about this on this site a few months ago but I cannot find it. Thanks ever so much for your help.

Did you ever solve this? I have the same issue. On a cold day (air temp below 10 degrees) it will only blow hot air on maximum - on anything else it's blowing lukewarm / cool air.

Did you ever get this sorted? I've got the exact same issue. I recall seeing something about it being related to cabin temperature sensors but I cannot find the thread.

I've had this exact problem (2010 Superb Estate) and solved it yesterday by fitting two new OEM rear springs. Sits and drives so much better now, and doesn't sag onto it's axle the moment I put anything in it.