Megsxx

Get a mobile remapper to come to you or take the car to someone that can do all the work?

I own a yellow vrs too! X

it’s the same from the drivers window controls as the door controls, and only happened since replacing the battery. Yeah these faults remain despite pressing ‘clear faults’, I also find it odd that it’s the same faults on both doors x

At the risk of sounding stupid..... tried the above with no success. Tried it with the engine running, engine off ignition on, engine off ignition off, and it’s just not working! Am I missing something? I am getting the same faults on both rear doors on my OBD 11, (which I have attached) but the drivers side rear door seems fine, it’s just the passenger side rear. Any ideas?x

Since a battery replacement a while back, my passenger rear window works backwards (up to open, down to close) which is a pain but not the end of the world. How do I change it back to normal? X

An octavia vrs is ok, roomy, comfy quick enough for most things, mine has been reliable enough for the last 3.5 years and handles ok in the dry. Can feel a bit cumbersome if you are used to something more agile. Depending on how you use it depends on whether you choose petrol or diesel, and driving preferences. I love the low down grunt of the diesel but if you’re used to petrol it can take a bit of getting used to (car before this was a 285bhp wrx but that was a bit thirsty for 60+ miles a day). Would I have an octavia vrs if I was a young driver? Probably not, but as a slightly warm family car it makes sense 🤷‍♀️ Xx

Beryl is back on the road, MOT sorted at last, couple of minors to rectify, but only wear and tear things (front discs, bushes). Thanks to everyone for their advice xx

I don’t think smoke is the problem, the garage didn’t smoke test it as the dpf has been tampered with xx

It is a BMN, but I’m not sure whether the mot centre were just being an arse looking at the mot sheet as they didn’t run an emissions test after seeing the dpf by the looks of things xx

From what I can gather, 2007 build, early 2008 first registration (10th jan looking at docs) so a 57 plate but on a personal reg xx

Can you advise what you mean by diesel clean? Preferably links/ product details please?x

At the risk of sounding really dumb.... would having the dpf refitted for the mot pass then have it removed afterwards? I love the way it drives now (my last car was a stage 2 wrx blob eye).

Probably doesn’t help that they put a pic of my car advertising their services on social media 🤦🏻‍♀️ (names deleted for confidentiality) but you can see what they said on the post about removal and MOTs xx

No they’re not returning phone calls or replying to messages atm..... I’ll give them a chance but it has been a couple of days x

Dpf ordered, only a cheap one as not got a lot of money but as long as it gets me back on the road

I was having major dpf problems, I was assured by a local ‘tuning centre’ that if I was to have my dpf removed it would still pass the mot and it wouldn’t be obvious, and it would stop the problem recurring. So as it seemed the win win situation (better power, mpg, no future problems, costs less) I went with that option. I was told if there was any mot problems pop back and they will sort it out. Cue 9 days later my mot is due and two of the 3 major fails were ‘dpf appears to have been tampered with’ and ‘excess smoke’ (the third being a fractured coil spring). I contacted the tuner who said they would sort it and were waiting to get me booked in, this was 2 days ago and now they are not responding to my messages. Rather than tell me how stupid I’ve been can anyone suggest an option to get me back on the road? If the dpf has been ‘mapped out’ will it cause a fault putting one back in? I must admit it drives so much nicer now too 😢. any constructive advise welcome please

It’s trying to lull you into a false sense of security.......

When I used to work as a motor home technician we used to ‘drop test’ the leisure batteries to assess the battery under load and amazing how many would fail but pass a no load voltage check.... and low voltage would make sense of the problems. Or possibly a bad/corroded electrical contact causing a similar fault.x

I was told (when my exhaust fell off my old car) by the AA man who bodged it together that more modern cars tend to have low grade stainless steel systems instead so exhaust corrosion problems are rare and it’s unusual now for them to be called to similar problems 🤷‍♀️ Xx

I recently had the same problem after owning my car (2008 pd170 vRS) for over 3 years (now on 122k) with the dpf light coming on a few times a week and my commute consists of either a 10 mile or 30 mile A road drive each way depending on the day. after a couple of weeks of this happening on and off it got stuck in limp home mode, and garage diagnosed a blocked dpf past regeneration. I’m finally back on the road after a fairly hefty bill. I hope yours isn’t the same problem 🙁 xx

Could try and clean all the contacts on the bulb holders and plugs- I had a similar problem with my rear lights failing with new bulbs, took all apart, cleaned all contacts and tweaked the lamp contact tabs slightly and it’s been fine since.

It’s showing as a fault code and the dpf light has come on so I’m pretty sure it has?

Is it possible to force a dpf regen with an OBD11 on a 2008 pd170 octavia? If so how do I do it?

It’s BMN

Hi my car suddenly lost power and the engine management light came on the other day... I had it looked at and apparently there is an arm broken that opens flaps in the inlet? Does anyone know what this part is called and where to get a replacement from please? thank you! megs xx