SimonB68

Mine's been doing the same recently (last few weeks) but with wireless, when connected by cable it seems fine. Was in for a service beginning of March so am hoping that all software was upgraded, but conversely perhaps it is an update that's causing the glitching. The car is back in next week for the ignition switch so I'll ask then what they did, or if there are any updates. There is a thread on here somewhere where some of the aftermarket guys were kindly providing new firmware, but it seemed to go quiet recently, you could try posting in there though. EDIT : thread link

Does this help? Looks to be a slightly different part, but principle is likely the same. D4B806D83C9-Communication-extracted.pdf

Personalisation (inc 3rd key) was offered as an option for MIB3 MY21 vehicles, up to a point, and the user manual was written to suggest it operated as per previous MIB, ie settings could be fixed to a particular key. However MIB3 does not provide Personalisation, settings are now all Profile based. At some point between MY21 and MY22 IIRC the Personalisation option was renamed to Third Key, since that is all you get. My understanding is that the intended behaviour is that the currently selected user profile is assigned to whichever key locks the vehicle (either by physical button or used by KESSY). This requires some degree of personal organisation to ensure that the right key is used at the right time. To me it has limitations. For example you swap drivers on a long journey, the new driver selects their profile, but forgets to change it back when the vehicle is locked. Key is now assigned the other user profile. Or both keys are taken on a journey, which key then gets used by KESSY? I found it a pain, and the primary feature I wanted when (misguidedly) selecting the Personalisation option was seat memory assigned to a key, but simply pressing the memory button on opening the door is an adequate alternative. So now there's one key gets used, the other in the house, and the third in a secure location. I disabled Profiles completely since they were so unreliable, the ICE often stuck in profile syncing for entire journeys rendering the ICE unusable. Profiles are one of the worst design decisions and implementations IMO. Why do my car settings need to be synced to the Cloud... everything is Cloud these days. although its dominance in the public psyche is about to be superseded by the current misconception that is AI.

I mistakenly bought this wiper blade for my Kodiaq. Amazon have given me a returnless refund so this is available for the cost of postage. Unfortunately it looks like the small parcel rate is needed and the cheapest is £2.99. This can be had from Amazon for £6.75 with Prime so not a great saving admittedly. I'd much rather this get used than go in the bin. Can also be used to replace just the rubber on a facelift Kodiaq. Free to collect from the Maidenhead area.

Can anyone recommend a source/supplier of a guaranteed fault free (pixels & glass) Columbus touchscreen, for an MY21 MIB3 Kodiaq? I have seen a few on eBay but not one that's entirely New condition, and I'm also not sure whether they are MIB/MY specific, does anyone know and/or could provide a part number? I am exploring having mine replaced by a third party that scratched the screen and would like to be the one that sources the replacement unit to ensure it's in New condition. Many thanks Simon

I think I generally prefer the sleeker look, but dislike the D-pillar, and particularly the rear, which has far too many folds and creases, like it's been squeezed, or drooped with too much sun.

This is mine (apologies for the dust). Factory fit option to an MY21 SEL Build code is : 167 KA2 VWGROUP KSU With rear view camera system (type 2) Order sheet : PACKET:PWF - Rear View Camera

What's your GSM signal like? I gave up on S-PIN and individual profiles due to the unreliability of the software, having spent too many journeys with no radio, media or nav because the ICE was stuck at 'Syncing' from engine start. My conclusion was that, as well as being generally buggy, a good GSM signal is key to ensure server response times, and ours is poor generally. The biggest personalisation feature for us is seat memory, and whilst it would be nice if this was reliably linkable to the key in use as it is supposed to be, I can live with pressing a button on entry, and without all the other personalisation stuff which requires profiles.

Configuration Wizard it seems https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/486362-how-to-change-clock-to-24h/#comment-5461592

Fully electric on the Macan (and probably other Porsches), but sooo slow. I prefer the half manual solution on the Kodiaq.. deployed and stowed in seconds.

Agree, very DIYable without removing wheels if you're reasonably handy with a socket set and a drill.

Missed the original thread, so just to say in case you haven't found a solution yet, my regular "SOS function unavailable" warning in my MY21 was fixed with a dealer software update, don't know if it's available for yours.

I can't comment on suitability for your adventures. I replaced a FreeLander 2 with the Kodiaq SEL 1.5 TSI, but the FL2 was bought for size, driving position and dealing with adverse weather. Never really needed the last, and Kodiaq well serves the first two. I never really looked at ground clearance etc, and wouldn't know how it compares to other Skoda models. Options... Rear seat backrest release - Not sure I'd bother again, all it does is release the seat, you still need to open the side door or climb in to push the seat down, so you could release the seat at the same time. Cheap option though. Textile floor mats with lounge steps in rear - if you're out in the mud a lot then I'd consider the rubber mats. They are lipped, fit nicely and should catch any fluids. Ventilated front seats and massage function - I've experienced ventilated seats in 35+ degrees C heat and they were a boon, particularly as I do feel the heat, especially when driving. I considered them for my Kodiaq. My other half talked sense into me and instead just went for the electric driver's seat with memory. Saved me a considerable sum, and like BoxerBoy I really quite like the 'cloth'. I have had leather in many previous cars, not really sure why now. My neighbour has massage seats in his Velar. Gimmicky in my view. If money is no object then go for it, otherwise I'd think twice. Winter pack - heated front and rear seats - I do like heated seats, think front are standard on SEL+, so if you regularly have passengers in the back then heated rear makes sense. Kick boot - very useful, and hopefully extends the life of the boot switch. Virtual Cockpit - added this more for resale value, but do like that I now have all the information I want on screen, and can modify it should I wish to. If you're off roading then personally I'd choose the smallest wheel/deepest tyre available

Without knowing your financial situation it's possibly difficult to offer any real advice. If I were making a decision though it would likely factor in 1. Size of balloon payment 2. Estimated value of the vehicle 3. Amount of cash available to put down as a deposit 4. Affordable monthly payment 5. Condition and reliability of current vehicle 6. Projected ownership costs, especially servicing and warranty 7. Depreciation Historically CCs are an expensive way to borrow money. I don't know at the moment though, it's not something I've needed to know and thus research. I suspect that there are other better loan options available to you, such as a general bank loan so probably worth looking in to. General advice for PCP seems to be if the car is worth less than the balloon payment then walk away. However that decision would need to be balanced against what car you can replace it with, and whether it's better value for money to do so. If the car had been ultra reliable and the difference between value and balance was small then I might consider buying it, If not then if the car is exactly what you need and like then look at cheaper second hand models that are affordable based upon #3 and #4. Alternatively if there is likely equity in the car then talk to the dealer about a new deal for a replacement car, perhaps a lower spec to bring the price down. It might work out better value than a loan to pay off the existing car, again presumably dependent on #3 to #7. You need to do the sums and see what suits you best.