hackingjam

You can take my name off 418 as it's long out my circle. It's definitely still alive though, with or without seats, though the V5 was issued November and this chap has had it a couple months before that:

Bump... After some struggling with scrapyards being open, new jobs etc, I found myself a silver door with the correct motor and loom... And it works! The panel lights up, lock and unlock buttons work, and both windows go down and up. Happy endings all round. The mirror controls don't seem to work but I'm not fussed, I shall use my god given hands to move them

I took out my 6 disk changer to wetvac the seats and the space looks great for a little compact underseat sub, something like this. There's already a connector there that I assume is powered so eliminates running a lead from the battery? I also have an aftermarket head unit and i assume that there is a some sort of connection to the back of the head unit that could maybe be used instead of running rca leads? Anyone done similar?

I used this to fit mine: The bushings don't need to be greased anymore either. If memory serves the diagram of the order of bolts/nuts/washers was slightly wrong on the provided instructions?

I'm assuming it was built with a 6Q motor (with a new reg at some point) and the new drivers door is off a later 6Y model, hence my problems. I'm not sure the exact build date, I've put my boot sticker in that imgur album, can you tell from that?

I think I may have used up all my alotted bandwidth https://imgur.com/a/z31Xn4C All looks fine apart from the black tape

Looks like its had a new regulator too, it's still riveted in though, main dealer?

Passenger motor is 6Q. I think this could be the issue!

True but would have to find a model with power windows and heated mirrors to swap to as well as making sure the door functions work. Do the paint codes match between models?

They're badly lit pictures; will get some better ones tomorrow. I'm wondering if the hacked+melted mirror plug is why my mirror controls don't work, I assume since there's no plug on the motor then those controls aren't affected my mirror issues. I'm also wondering if its an issue with the door connectors. Will take the passenger side off tomorrow too and see if it's a 6Q or 6Y, if there's a mismatch then hopefully that's the issue, just got to achieve the impossible task of finding a vrs being broken south of london...

Interesting discovery, my window motor only has 2 plugs? In the video I watched he has 3, with the 3rd one going to the mirror. My mirror controls seem to go straight into the main bunch of cables, and you can see the absolute cowboy job someone has done on the melted connectors... hence why I'm wondering if this loom is beyond saving.

Finally got round to looking at this as the drivers window had stopped working.... Removed the bellow, all wires were fine apart from one which just had some insulation cut, wire was still intact inside though. The single window started working again after being unplugged and plugged back in, still no backlighting, no mirror controls or lock controls, driver control for passenger window not working but passenger side control still working fine. Done a fair bit of digging here and on the facebook groups (read: bugging Ross ) and I'm wondering if its the classic case of the wrong motor revision swapped into the door? My car is a 54 plate so I assume is using a motor before the Oct 2004 that I've seen @Wino mention in another current thread on window woes. I'll try and get a picture of the motor part number tomorrow and hopefully someone on here can tell me if its the correct one.

I have a whiteline rarb on mine and I'd say theres definitely a noticable difference on corners in country roads and pushing it around roundabouts. I too was concerned about ground clearance but haven't had any issues yet (on stock suspension at least) but I'd be wary of doing any quick-2-wheels-on-the-pavement parking jobs

Friend of a friend owns #418 in west sussex, old sale post on fb group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/676070365872638/permalink/2232271913585801 Was described as '****ed' to me by said friend without elaborating much, shame as previous owners description makes it sound fairly tidy.

Was advised my front hoses need doing as starting to perish, bought a full set from goodridge but can't seem to find any fitting instructions/guides for rear hoses? I recall they're on the rear beam but not sure best way to get access.

Nothing seems amiss here...

Hi all, When I bought my vrs, the chap who I bought it off said that the regulator had failed on the drivers door the day shortly before I bought it. However, now none of the controls on the door work (mirrors, windows, the lock buttons), and they are not illuminated when the lights come on either. The lock light still flashes, puddle light illuminates, and little chrome lock nubs go up and down. I pulled off the door card to be greeted with this the other day: an aftermarket alpine sound system that had been spliced in. Had a poke at some fuses and all seemed fine so assumed it was an electrical gremlin due to someones poor wiring job and needed a new door (or loom at least) again. However upon putting the door card back on, the drivers window worked! But nothing else. Was a miserable day so didnt use the window any further, and sure enough the next day it had stopped working again. I'm not really sure what to do next - the window briefly working has given me hope there's an easy fix that i can try work out by probing with a multi meter, but I'm not sure where to even start. Can anyone advise if this is worth my time?

Inside the fuel cap, there's a screw on the left hand side that the spring was stuck behind

Spring was jammed all the way in, loosened the little screw and it popped itself back out!

Watched a couple videos on this issue and seen the little metal spring of sorts in other cars seems to be permanently depressed on mine - will have a closer look tomorrow.

Have now stuck a zip tie around, hopefully it'll stay. Doesn't seem to have done anything. I can see the door trying to open when I pull the release level, but it just isn't able to pop open without an extra pair of hands to give it a pull. I've checked and the locking part fully retracts as well, not sure what else I can try

I can now see the little locking part retract, but the door still doesn't 'spring' open so when the fuel door handle is released, it just re locks. Any ideas? Grow an extra long limb to pull the flap and release level simultaneously?

Didn't have it oriented properly - cheers!

Hi all, recently purchased a 54 fabia vrs. One issue with it was the fuel door not locking, and after having a look on this lovely website I could see this is a common issue where a little cable has come out. Pulled aside the carpet and sure enough it had come out. However, when I locked and unlocked the car, nothing appeared to happen? I would expect the cable to retract and compress the spring, which it is not. Having the spring extending is making it impossible to replace the cable, so I’m wondering if this is defective, or I just need to use some more force