makemywish
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Posts posted by makemywish
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1 hour ago, PetrolDave said:
Copy the CD onto an SD card or a USB stick?
Thanks PetrolDave. Last night I ripped the CDs as lossless files on to my phone. Will try that. Also have an external CD drive powered by USB. Will give it a whirl as well.
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Since my Skoda doesn't have a CD drive, there is no way to use the Audison supplied CD to calibrate and de-eq the Bit 10. Anyone have any experience doing this?
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1 hour ago, Roberto280 said:
Ah, I used love doing this kind of stuff.
But laziness and a bad back have put paid to doing the work myself.
So, going to book in soon for a full Audison/Hertz system in the Superb.
makemywish, how did you get on?
What speakers did you go for?
For the speakers -- Hertz MPK 165.3 PRO. Good speakers. Waiting for the right weather to install the Audison DSP as the EQ on the headhunt is really terrible. Messing with the lower to mid-lower frequencies.
I think the audison DSP+Amp option is pretty good, saves you the hassle of adding a DSP, but compared to the Hertz HCP 4D underpowered. -
1 hour ago, brettikivi said:
there's a cable from Audison for this. Can only find the finnish one right now but it's on the Audison site. Their documentation on the website really is excellent.
Cable: https://www.hifitalo.fi/products/audison-prima-ap-t-johtosarja-audi-vw-52-pin-iso-t-haara
other stuff: turn off the DSP in the head unit. Turn off the speed-related volume.
- Bret
Thanks. How do you turn off the dsp?
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Thank you very much @langers2k
Looks like the Bit Ten has a few options for powering up, including auto turn on based on speaker input. The Hertz amp already has auto turn on based on Front speaker inputs. So looks like it is a question of hooking it all up and see how it goes.
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It is the Audison Bit Ten. These are the screenshots of the relevant pages from the manual. Also attached is image of the amp and the inputs going into it.
Keen observers would notice I am using the rear speakers as sub as the low end is so boomy. So, after a bit of tweaking around I figured the best option without a DSP is to use the front speakers as mid+high range and the rear speakers as sub. That is giving me a decent flat sound at the expense of loss of overall sound level. I am just after a flat sound profile.
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I recently upgraded the stereo on my octavia III FL. If you do go down the route of upgrading there are two options
a) just change the speakers but do deaden the sound doors.
b) if you do add an aftermarket amplifier do make sure you have one with a DSP to flatten the head unit's unique EQ. I made the mistake of just adding an Amp + speakers and realised the EQ on board the headhunt circuit transforms the sound quite a bit. The sound is not bad, but just doesn't do service to the excellent amp (Hertz HCP 4D) and speakers (Hertz Mille component speakers). The amp has very limited eq options and as a consequence I have had to do all sorts of contortions to get a reasonable sound out of the amp. I am now in the process of adding a DSP to fix the issue.
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Need help with self installation of a DSP.
I had a Hertz amp and speakers installed a couple of weeks ago and after discovering the problem with the EQed output of the factory stereo planned on having an Audison DSP Bit Ten installed. And the government announced the lockdown! So here I am.
I have a Hertz HCP 4D installed in the boot of the car with high level inputs going into it and speaker outputs going out to speakers.
I presume installing it in the rear will be alright. A few questions that I would be grateful if someone could provide guidance on:
a) for power, do I install a distribution box and run power cables to amp and DSP (assuming I add another fuse between distribution box and dsp).
b) then, is it a question of connecting the speaker outs from the headhunt into the DSP and RCA cables to AMP?
The dsp came with this connector with helpful labels on the wires. I presume I can ignore the wires on the connector other than the battery and speaker in?
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Need help with self installation of a DSP.
I had a Hertz amp and speakers installed a couple of weeks ago and after discovering the problem with the EQed output of the factory stereo planned on having an Audison DSP Bit Ten installed. And the government announced the lockdown! So here I am.
I have a Hertz HCP 4D installed in the boot of the car with high level inputs going into it and speaker outputs going out to speakers.
I presume installing it in the rear will be alright. A few questions that I would be grateful if someone could provide guidance on:
a) for power, do I install a distribution box and run power cables to amp and DSP (assuming I add another fuse between distribution box and dsp).
b) then, is it a question of connecting the speaker outs from the headhunt into the DSP and RCA cables to AMP?
The dsp came with this connector with helpful labels on the wires. I presume I can ignore the wires on the connector other than the battery and speaker in? -
On 18/12/2020 at 23:20, JandB said:
Excellent post and information, thank you.
I've just downsized from an Octavia estate to a Fabia estate so your boot pics were very familiar.
I've opted for Nocoi sound deadening material and I'm putting Nocoi foam over the top of that (as Nocoi suggest). Fingers crossed it'll work.
Thank you.
I've now had the door panels treated and new speakers installed. With the boot and door panels, the cabin is much quieter. All the mid and range frequency noises are gone. My suggestion to anyone considering a new stereo is to just deaden the doors and boot (and if possible the floors) and replace the speakers. The difference is remarkable.-
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I believe you need to add Audison USS 4 between the head unit and the amp. I am installing the stereo on my amp and am facing the same issue. Have ordered the part and will let you know
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Just now, hansen1 said:
Not my car in the pic,I am going to wait fore the summer to do the job.
I have not decided what make I am going to use yet,there is a lot of them.
Good idea. One big lesson for me here. First time car insulation
But what brands are out there? I might apply the paint over the summer. -
2 minutes ago, hansen1 said:
Good job!
I have been deadening my last 3 cars with the same material.
But with my new Octavia I thought of using some spray on deadener first,let it dry then apply the "normal"deadener.
Nice! And that is a terrific job!
What make is the spray on insulation? And how thick is the coat? As I was applying the deadening I was wondering if I should have just gotten rubberised paint and painted it on the panels.
I now wonder if the insulation makes any difference other than absorb interior noise, which in a car environment makes for marginal gains. Or maybe because the car is such a noisy environment, the insulation helps take some of the edge off. IDK. -
OK. So done with it. Apologies no pictures as it was tipping it and early darkness meant I had to work at breakneck speed. Finished at 9pm finally. Made some rookie mistakes such as not factoring in tolerances for the variable boot floor and the bottom trim, which I will rectify in the spring/summer. But seriously, the parts used in these cars are just really flimsy.
So, lessons:a) this is a job for spring or summer when you have a lot of light or else if you have a spacious and well lit garage.
b) make sure you mark out where the trims go and do not apply the treatment to those areas -- or at least do not apply the insulation.
What people are most interested in knowing -- is it worth the effort?The noise from the rear is significanty reduced. Of course, there will be the low frequency noise that the tyres generate from certain tarmac that cannot be eliminated, but signifiant drop in the mid and higher frequency noise.
The noise now comes from the front and middle section of the car, which I will taking care of next. But already the stock stereo sounds much better and this is despite all the boom coming from the car doors.-
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OK. So, you need to get the side trims off (both floor and roof) before you can pull the lining out enough to apply the deadening. Removing the variable boot floor is not intuitive. You need to first unscrew the VBF from the shaft that it is attached to, which in turn is connected to the hinges which are attached to the side luggage compartment trim panels. The boot roller blind can be taken off by depressing a spring button at the ends. Good lord, trying to figure out how to remove it was a real pain in the a**e.
Removing the seat bench required quite a bit of wrestling and the grommets don't work now -- so have to order a new set. Warning for anyone wanting to remove the seat bench -- have a spare set of grommets ready before you take it off.
The worst bit was removing that silly felt that Skoda thinks is sound insulation. Removing it was a real pain as it stuck with this gunky glue that wouldn't come off with WD 40 or natural spirit. Didn't want to try solvents on it. So did my best to expose the panels by scrubbing with plastic brush, a gentle scourer, cloth, even my fingers and dried it off before applying the sound deadening.
So today I got as far as deadening + insulating left wheel arch and rear seat. Was also able to fully deaden boot floor. I've run out of insulation so more is on order. Tomorrow I take off the other side trim and lining and get on with it.
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I have managed to remove the tailgate/luggage compartment cover trim as well as all the visible screws and hooks on the side walls. I can't seem to figure out how to:
a) take off the side luggage compartment trim panel (perhaps because there are screws which cannot be accessed until you take the rear seat off (or at least the bench)
b) take off the roller cover assembly as well as the variable boot floor.
Anyone have any ideas how to do this? -
2 hours ago, lway said:
Might be something of help in Sasha's thread. On pages 3 and 4 she retrofitted a variable boot floor to her car. Might be something in her descriptions that helps.
Thanks. Today I managed to get the trim by the load lip as well as everything on the boot floor out. Took out all the visible screws on the side walls. There's quite a bit to go -- the side luggage compartment trim panels needs to come off, which seems to require taking the back seats off. I am unable to figure out how to remove the hard top variable floor. More tomorrow.
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Going to attempt sound deadening and insulation.
Car is Octavia III Facelift. How does one remove the variable boot, trim and carpet. I presume the carpet is just pulled off. So far I have deduced you need to remove the boot lip trim and then the two plastic trims on the side (presumably fastened by a few screws and clips). I am flummoxed how to remove the variable boot floor. Any clues or links to workshop manual?
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Is there a guide available on how to install a high level input amplifier and swap speakers out. I am looking at the following options:
Hertz HCP 4D
Hertz Mille MPK 165.3 front and rear.
Any help would be appreciated.
Subwoofer location in Estate -- thoughts?
in Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)
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Any thoughts on best location for 12 inch subwoofer (Rockford Fosgate P300-12) in an estate Octavia? Or is it a question of just changing around the location and firing angle till you hit the sweet spot (in relation to driver's listening position)