Fredw56

Do any forum members know the current going rate for having the cam chain and it tensioner replaced? This would have to be by a garage, preferably a suitably qualified one. Health is taking a toll on my range of activities. Whilst our car is a 2014 and well after the upgrade to the cam chain, it has done 112,000 miles and it rattles on start up. It has always rattled a bit. When I bought it at two years old I took it to the main dealer in Indian Queens and they said it was normal, a characteristic. Possible said that because it was still under warranty. The noise is louder now and we have decided to keep on repairing this car rather than replace it. Now live in Lincolnshire and nearest dealer is Grimsby. There is list of jobs, slight front nearside suspension or rack. Perennial breaking wires (I am getting sick of fixing these). Slight oil leak back of engine, never drips so possibly a breather.

Also likely to be the wires breaking at the top left where there go through the gaiter by the hinge. My 2014 has done this repeatedly. Drivers door too. I fix some and then some more go. Five rounds of soldering in bypass wires over the last few years.

Thanks for all the help and hints. I did the job using a resistor pack from a random eBay seller. I also changed the cabin filter at the same time. Took me about a hour but that included looking for an elusive torx driver. Yes, it is a bit of a wrangle getting the airbag out but it can be done. It’s all working again and the car has not spontaneously combusted, yet. it was the big green bit that was damaged. It was cracked up presumably through overheating. The cabin filter was quite dirty but not excessively so perhaps I will replace that more often. It had done about 12,000 miles since last changed.

Thanks so much for the information and the link. I think I have all the tools to do that. Slightly apprehensive about the touching the airbag but will have to. I will get on and order the parts now. cheers.

Hi. I have a 2014 Roomster 1.2TSi SE DSG 105hp. The blower fan has gone defective. It works on full speed but the lower speeds, 1,2 and 3 are dead. Similar problems on Fiat vehicles proved to be the fan sped resistor but I am not sure about Skodas. Does anyone have experience of the problem I have and have determined the solution? If it is the fan resistor, does none know how to get at it?

Update. I dismantled enough to work on the door harness. The repair kit was a waste of money. It is just too difficult perform a fix using that. It would require far more disassembly that I was not prepared to do. In the end I joined some broken cables with solder joints and spliced others with sections of new pieces with the harness pulled sufficiently clear into the gap between the door and body. Shrink wrap over each joint. It is working again. More cables will break though. This is the only car I have ever had that exhibits this problem. the only thing that still does not work are the rear window winders. They work from the driver door but not the rear doors. The car has been like that for years. It isn’t a broken wire so I think it may be the switch in the centre of the driver door cluster. As I very rarely have a back seat passenger, I don’t care too much about that.

Pete. Thanks. Since posting I have ordered on of the repair kits and plan to strip out the harness and attempt a repair. If I run the cables with a bit more slack in the door hinge it may work. Only time will tell.

nige, that was an option I considered and may end up having to do. I do fear that the cables may break close to the multi plug though. The insulation sheathing is brittle. It has cracked on all of the visible wires. On some it is clear that the copper is also breaking. Three wires are completely broken already. Continuing with any of the wires in that door gap is an open invitation to future failure. I have seen the repair kits listed on eBay. You get a fistful of wires about 250mm long and in random colours. Included is a new multi plug You splice each wire onto the harness, hopefully in the right slot in the plug. Not sure I want to risk it, there seems to be a large scope for it continuing to give trouble. Consider all the splice joints in the door void. A while ago I fixed some broken wires in the tailgate gap. The others in there will fail soon enough.

As with so many others the wires in my driver’s door have started to break up. Three are broken and the rest are all cracked with copper showing. The central locking has stopped working. The car has 103,000 miles up now so it not a surprise. It should be, but it isn’t. I have read the previous threads on this subject and I tend to think a new door harness is the best option. There isn’t working space to splice the cables in the wiring boot. Crimps are too big and I just won’t be able to work in there with a soldering iron. Has anyone else managed to buy a door harness. If so do you have the part number and can you recall the price? thanks

Thanks. That explains why I could not see anything. I will look at the boot gaiter first. A year is so ago a couple of wires broke there and the washer hose broke. It seems the most likely location. That gaiter also tends to pop off and has recently leaked a lot of water into the body cavity. Hopefully it is just a damaged cable. Not sure if I am out to dismantling then door locks right now. I do trust dealers with stuff like this. Too much scope for extortion.

If it helps I paid £59.34 in 2020 inc postage for the Yuasa Silver high performance 54Ahr. Note that it does no fit correctly but it benchmarks the price. I would go Varta.

I have to slam mine quite hard anyway but perhaps that is a clue. Does anyone one know where the switch of sensor is on the tailgate? Just been looking and cannot see one.

Hi. My Roomster had developed a fault. The door warning light is staying on. Also the internal lights stay on even with all the doors shut and the car locked. Does anyone have experience of this or can guide me to where the fault may lie? is a door open light a test failure? Test is due in a few weeks, I have switched off the cab lights and removed the boot light module to save the battery.

I have looked at this myself. A year or two ago the kit was being sold by various folk on EBay. However, I understand it would still need to be activated by a dealer. Also, I find that a lot of the European sellers are sources and a bit dodgy. The stuff they sell is for Euro spec cars and often useless for the U.K. same issue with other vehicles. I found it tricky buying bit for my Boxer based camper. Loads of left hand drive parts being passed off. I gave up with the cruise control in the end but will watch this thread to see if you find a way through.

Watch out for the Yuasa recommendation. My battery died in 2020 when I was away. Ordered on line based on Yuasa recommendation. The battery did not fit properly. It is in but not properly secured. I had left the car with my son and he had a bit of anxiety about the whole thing. My was a regular lead acid not an AGM. Original had been a Varta. I got it on line from Tayna but it was not their fault. It was definitely the Yuasa website. I have the 2014 105bhp 1.2 DSG.