Fredw56

Yes I am aware of the nature of the transmission. The double acting clutch mechanism and the dual gearbox input shafts. The main dealer would likely be prohibitively expensive hence I was looking for an independent. My area is sparsely populated but even Hull has no one fixing DSG transmission.

Our 2014 Roomster 1.2 TSi (105) DSG developed a major fault over the weekend. The clutch became very grabby and the shift very clunky. This developed to the point only the even gears and reverse will engage. There is a nasty squealing noise from the gear box end of the engine which sounds like a failed brearing and metal on metal. I managed to get it home but now comes the question of what to do. The main dealer wants £120 to put it on the diagnostic but I know that is not going to tell than any more than I know. It will just say gearbox fault, will not engage or similar. They won't even give a vague idea of a cost of anything. That's normal these days. A relatively local independent specialist (the only one that is even vaguely local to my bit of LIncolnshire) suspects the mechatronic unit and gives a rough guide of £2000 if that is all it is. But, I don't think it is just that, if at all. This feels and sounds mechanical and at 129,000 miles the clutch and any associated bearings or other moving parts are suspect. Does anyone have experience of a whole clutch replacement or indeed and entire gearbox assembly replacement? Also, know of more good independents over my way? Is £2k normal for a refurb mechatronics? Another question is what value does a Roomster with a shot DSG have? Just scrap?

The driver's side screenwash nozzle on my car is partly obstructed. I have tried the usual tricks to clear it but have been unsuccessful. Has anyone worked out to remove the nozzle? Can it be withdrawn from above or do I have to remove the wiper arms and the plastic panel the nozzles are mounted in? Any suggestion would help. Thanks

Mine does not do that either. As I read the manual it ought to move as you drive to get the best signal but mine does not. Nearly 9 years and it has never done it. It is spectacularly bad at finding signals when tuning and scanning too. It is a very basic piece of kit. It may be that the instructions do not match the device.

Sorry, should have said. The oil used should be the right stuff when the dealer does it but I can’t see what they do in the workshop. When I changed the oil in the lockdown and when I top-up, I always use the Castrol Edge 5-30. I confess, I trust the dealer to out in the right amount, and have not checked it. The engine uses a little oil between services but not much, well les that one litre.

The lastest service this month was the simple oil change service (I had taken a service plan). Therefore oil and filter. The Nov 2023 service was a major service with the plugs changed, air filter, cabin filter, oil filter and oil. They listed the plugs as changed but the dealer is a bent as the come and may not have done. I have looked and cannot see any obvious defects. Air filter is clean, really clean, almost uncanny. Oddly the cabin filter was jammed up with debris. That has nothing to do with the engine but I suspect the dealer on the 2023 service did not replace the cabin filter despite the invoice saying it did. I have not looked at the plugs yet as I do not have the necessary tool to remove the plag caps. I am planning to buy one, the bodgy way with the cable tie looks sure to end in a snapped lead. I would like to know what the diagnostics say but don't have a reader. I could ask the dealer but I just know they won't have done it. The service plan says they will do one but I doubt it happened. I also know they charge £120 to do one. Or at least they wanted to in 2023. I am relatively competent but probably not a competent or experienced as many contributoers to this forum. I have had this car since 2016 and have not had to do much if anything to the engine. The brakes and dodgy wiring issues, yes. With the exception of the COVID period, it was main dealer serviced throughout. I changed the oil and filters twice over the COVID period. The last time I was trying to fix a random misfire was years back on a Hyundai which the dealers said was perfectly OK but it wasn't. I started swapping out bits. Turned out to be a faulty cam position sensor. Fuel consumption improved from 35mpg to 45mpg and peformance was transformed. I have just said on another thread that Hyundai's warranty is fictional. "Can't fault it sir!"

We are looking to buy a reaplcement for our Roomster soon too. There is nothing on the market to equal it. The manufacturers have all abandonned functional utility. Everthing is bigger and bulbous with poor internal space. Economy is lost due to the added weight and a load of techno bling that we don't really need. They make engines more efficient and then blow it on weight. I may not stick with Skoda because there is a dominant dealer in the region who has most fo the outlets and I can't deal with them any more. They are thoroughly dishonest in my experience. There is another dealer I could use down in Lincoln but taking a car there for servicing is very inconvenient. I need someone close and hand and honest. Toyota is looking attractive desputre the crap gearboxes. Nothing Stellantis or Ford due to their crap engines. Nissan are just crap cars. Nothing classed and prestige either. I had a Mercedes once and the service costs are just stupid, Think about an oil changer service in 2015 for £585. BMW no chance. I bought one their motorcycles new in 1979 and it had a load of faults which they would not fix. They took it in to dealer and held it for months to run down the clock on the warranty. Horrible company. My son and his wife have a BMW car and it is one expensive bill after another. Does not leave much does it. My wife ran a Honda Accord for years and that was a good car. I bought three new Hyundais in a row. Not great but good for the money when they were budget cars but the warranty was fictional. Everything was not covered. Physically broken anti-roll bar links not covered because they are a characteristic of these cars. FFS I am giving my Roomster to the younger of our two daughters. Her older sister has one of her own already. The younger one has a new baby coming and the Roomster has all the space needed to be a baby bus. It may get her though a couple of years before the cost of maintenance makes it uneconomic.

I have a 2014 Roomster DSG with the CBZB engine. When driving back from the dealers following a service my EPC light came on as I approached home . I switched off and restarted and it went away. However, since then (3 weeks) I have observed increased fuel consumption and what may be a misfire. The misfire manifests as a slightly uneven tickover and some but sporadic hesistation when accelerating. The car has done 121,000 miles so not in the first flush of life. I would talk to the dealer but they are always just full of ..it and, of course, never wrong. Before I start randomly replacing the usual suspects under the bonnet I was thinking an ODB reader may help. Can any member suggest an inexpensive reader or reader type I could buy that would be compatible with a Roomster?

Do any forum members know the current going rate for having the cam chain and it tensioner replaced? This would have to be by a garage, preferably a suitably qualified one. Health is taking a toll on my range of activities. Whilst our car is a 2014 and well after the upgrade to the cam chain, it has done 112,000 miles and it rattles on start up. It has always rattled a bit. When I bought it at two years old I took it to the main dealer in Indian Queens and they said it was normal, a characteristic. Possible said that because it was still under warranty. The noise is louder now and we have decided to keep on repairing this car rather than replace it. Now live in Lincolnshire and nearest dealer is Grimsby. There is list of jobs, slight front nearside suspension or rack. Perennial breaking wires (I am getting sick of fixing these). Slight oil leak back of engine, never drips so possibly a breather.

Also likely to be the wires breaking at the top left where there go through the gaiter by the hinge. My 2014 has done this repeatedly. Drivers door too. I fix some and then some more go. Five rounds of soldering in bypass wires over the last few years.

Thanks for all the help and hints. I did the job using a resistor pack from a random eBay seller. I also changed the cabin filter at the same time. Took me about a hour but that included looking for an elusive torx driver. Yes, it is a bit of a wrangle getting the airbag out but it can be done. It’s all working again and the car has not spontaneously combusted, yet. it was the big green bit that was damaged. It was cracked up presumably through overheating. The cabin filter was quite dirty but not excessively so perhaps I will replace that more often. It had done about 12,000 miles since last changed.

Thanks so much for the information and the link. I think I have all the tools to do that. Slightly apprehensive about the touching the airbag but will have to. I will get on and order the parts now. cheers.

Hi. I have a 2014 Roomster 1.2TSi SE DSG 105hp. The blower fan has gone defective. It works on full speed but the lower speeds, 1,2 and 3 are dead. Similar problems on Fiat vehicles proved to be the fan sped resistor but I am not sure about Skodas. Does anyone have experience of the problem I have and have determined the solution? If it is the fan resistor, does none know how to get at it?

Update. I dismantled enough to work on the door harness. The repair kit was a waste of money. It is just too difficult perform a fix using that. It would require far more disassembly that I was not prepared to do. In the end I joined some broken cables with solder joints and spliced others with sections of new pieces with the harness pulled sufficiently clear into the gap between the door and body. Shrink wrap over each joint. It is working again. More cables will break though. This is the only car I have ever had that exhibits this problem. the only thing that still does not work are the rear window winders. They work from the driver door but not the rear doors. The car has been like that for years. It isn’t a broken wire so I think it may be the switch in the centre of the driver door cluster. As I very rarely have a back seat passenger, I don’t care too much about that.

Pete. Thanks. Since posting I have ordered on of the repair kits and plan to strip out the harness and attempt a repair. If I run the cables with a bit more slack in the door hinge it may work. Only time will tell.

nige, that was an option I considered and may end up having to do. I do fear that the cables may break close to the multi plug though. The insulation sheathing is brittle. It has cracked on all of the visible wires. On some it is clear that the copper is also breaking. Three wires are completely broken already. Continuing with any of the wires in that door gap is an open invitation to future failure. I have seen the repair kits listed on eBay. You get a fistful of wires about 250mm long and in random colours. Included is a new multi plug You splice each wire onto the harness, hopefully in the right slot in the plug. Not sure I want to risk it, there seems to be a large scope for it continuing to give trouble. Consider all the splice joints in the door void. A while ago I fixed some broken wires in the tailgate gap. The others in there will fail soon enough.

As with so many others the wires in my driver’s door have started to break up. Three are broken and the rest are all cracked with copper showing. The central locking has stopped working. The car has 103,000 miles up now so it not a surprise. It should be, but it isn’t. I have read the previous threads on this subject and I tend to think a new door harness is the best option. There isn’t working space to splice the cables in the wiring boot. Crimps are too big and I just won’t be able to work in there with a soldering iron. Has anyone else managed to buy a door harness. If so do you have the part number and can you recall the price? thanks

Thanks. That explains why I could not see anything. I will look at the boot gaiter first. A year is so ago a couple of wires broke there and the washer hose broke. It seems the most likely location. That gaiter also tends to pop off and has recently leaked a lot of water into the body cavity. Hopefully it is just a damaged cable. Not sure if I am out to dismantling then door locks right now. I do trust dealers with stuff like this. Too much scope for extortion.

If it helps I paid £59.34 in 2020 inc postage for the Yuasa Silver high performance 54Ahr. Note that it does no fit correctly but it benchmarks the price. I would go Varta.

I have to slam mine quite hard anyway but perhaps that is a clue. Does anyone one know where the switch of sensor is on the tailgate? Just been looking and cannot see one.

Hi. My Roomster had developed a fault. The door warning light is staying on. Also the internal lights stay on even with all the doors shut and the car locked. Does anyone have experience of this or can guide me to where the fault may lie? is a door open light a test failure? Test is due in a few weeks, I have switched off the cab lights and removed the boot light module to save the battery.

I have looked at this myself. A year or two ago the kit was being sold by various folk on EBay. However, I understand it would still need to be activated by a dealer. Also, I find that a lot of the European sellers are sources and a bit dodgy. The stuff they sell is for Euro spec cars and often useless for the U.K. same issue with other vehicles. I found it tricky buying bit for my Boxer based camper. Loads of left hand drive parts being passed off. I gave up with the cruise control in the end but will watch this thread to see if you find a way through.

Watch out for the Yuasa recommendation. My battery died in 2020 when I was away. Ordered on line based on Yuasa recommendation. The battery did not fit properly. It is in but not properly secured. I had left the car with my son and he had a bit of anxiety about the whole thing. My was a regular lead acid not an AGM. Original had been a Varta. I got it on line from Tayna but it was not their fault. It was definitely the Yuasa website. I have the 2014 105bhp 1.2 DSG.

How come your car was 85bhp? Our car is also a 2014 1.2 TSi and it is 105bhp? I thought they were all 105bhp. When we got ours it was two years old and I am sure it had been remapped. I exhibited much stronger low down torque but the DSG was quite ill behaved. We asked the Skoda dealer to investigate and they did a reprogrammed with a new software version. It came back with a reduced torque, more buzzy, poorer fuel consumption but a beautifully smooth DSG. a few years later we got it back from a service and they had done something again. Even my wife noticed and she can drive on flat tyres without detecting it. It was obvious it had been reprogrammed yet again. Even more buzzy, higher revs before changing up, slight decrease in economy and a bit limp when accelerating at motorway speeds. It’s a bit as if the engine is being denied fuel briefly when you want to get up to speed on the slip road.

Thanks. That is amazing. I wasn’t aware of that source of information.