Fredw56

Ok, must have missed that when researching. I bought my kit from Eurocar because they only listed one option whilst other supplier had three. I knew mine car had 288mm discs but some must have 256mm. I had to reassemble yesterday so I have cut the cable off the pad. There is nothing fitted to my car for it to connect too. Rear brakes next.

My car is a 2014 Roomster 1.2 DSG. I have been fitting new pads and discs to the front. On the old pads there was no cable for a S sensor and no cables to connect them to anyway. The new pads have a cable embedded on one of the inner pads. is this normal? Should the Roomster have wear indicators? If it did where do I find the cable to connect the pad too?

We have a 2014 Roomster. The driver’s seat belt is frayed at bit where it passes through the buckle when in use. It was flagged as an advisor the last MoT test. I have no doubt it is not going to break but what I do know is how bad can it be before it fails an MoT. Does anyone have knowledge or experience of this please. I am looking for the part number for the belt. I have found a part number for an early date but I am unsure if it would be right for a 2014. I thought the Roomster was based on a much older Fabia and I sort of doubt they would change the seat belt design . anyone out there got part numbers? Thanks

Sadly it’s a bit worse. It is the edge where it goes through the buckle when the driver is using it. At the test last year the tester did warn me. He said it had passed but would not pass again unless is it was replaced. Naturally, I promptly forgot about it which is unsurprising as the car was parked up for months on end and my legendary capacity to forget things. I have emailed my local dealer for the price of the part but they have not replied. I can see then secondhand on eBay but I have never done well buying from scrappers.

I need to replace the driver side seat belt. It’s frayed and my MoT test is due. The reel is inside the pillar trim. Does anyone have knowledge or experience of how to remove the trim without damage or setting off the airbag thing in the upper section? any help appreciated.

Nath, did you ever get a solution to this problem. I need to fix mine. It has split. I tried splicing in some EPDM pipe using standard 4mm push in connectors but the water pours out of the corrugated pipe at the joint. The genuine corrugated pipe unions involve O rings to form a seal. If you got a fix I would appreciate knowing what you used.

washer hose like mine perhaps? the corrugated pipe was split in several places. My daughter had the same problem in a Hyundai but that was the mice that lived in her car chewing through the washer hose. Her cars are always like wheelie bins, full of rubbish. Mice are a problem though. They once chewed up and made a nest in the air filter of my BMW motorcycle whilst it was laid up for the winter.

Hi Thanks for the reply. I did manage to get there in the end. It was getting the side panel trims of the boot off that was the real problem and I failed at that. I managed to get the upper one partly off to get access to the multi way connector. Minor damage unfortunately. A continuity test showed two discontinuous wires but also a lot of corrosion and copper salts in the connector block. I got the gaiter loose just as you describe. As you say the broken wires were in there but also a split washer hose. Wires were easy to splice as I have that sort of kit to hand. I am awaiting a length of pipe and a pack of unions for the washer hose. My splices have lots of free movement but I am expecting the other cables to break, the tension on them is evident. Bad design, they need to look at a Sevel van, all the cables on my camper have plenty free movement and plenty of securing mounts. That said, its fuse box layout as given in the manual is a work of fiction. I reckon the strange small voltages were being feed back through wet cables and copper salts. Bit like and old British motorbikes and cars, all dodgy earths and leakage. Air con now gone off again but I doubt I can fix that.

Mine has been giving trouble but my rear wiper won’t off too. I have just opened up the gaiter from the tailgate to the body and found two broken wires plus the washer hose is split. The water has been running down the cables and cause severe corrosion in the multi connector in the rear pillar. It never rains but it pours as the old saying goes.

I am a new member although I have been eavesdropping for a few years. I have had this 2014 Roomster since 2016. It has done over 90k now so has been used quite a bit. Things are starting to go wrong, it happens with all cars when they get on a bit. My number one problem I need to fix for the upcoming MoT is the rear wiper. It stopped working. As a first step I checked the fuse. If the manual is correct the allocated fuse is fine. I say if the manual is correct because I can see it is not entirely accurate. Step 2, I bought and tested a new motor. It did not work so I suspect either the switch or the wiring loom as it is highlighted repeatedly on this forum. Supplier was kind and allowed me to return the replacement motor which was exceptionally generous. However, if the loom was broken there would be no power to the wiper motor plug and that is not the case. The brown wire has continuity to earth so it’s fine. The other three have some power in the region of 4.5v at the two outer and a few mV on the central of the three. Strangely some have power when the wiper is off too. I also tested the old motor by hooking it up to my spare campervan battery. Nothing doing no matter what combination of connections. That battery is fine, it starts my Boxer. Therefore, I need to get into the loom in the tailgate and side panel of the boot. Does anyone have any guidance on how to do that without causing a lot of damage. The gaiter between the tailgate and pillar is resisting all attempts to get it off so advice on that would be good too.