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And airbag light back on within 10 mins. Oh well - seat fully out I guess and need to find the connector in the seat and not under the seat as I suspect that it is the one!

Ok - I could see in the chassis there were three connectors. Two black and one yellow from memory. The two black ones then joined up into the same cable which would be electric seat controls and then heated seats. The single cable (with three wires) was the yellow plug and that went off on it's own and seemed to go off into the edge of the seat base and then up into where the curtain airbag lives. I imagine that is where the other connector must be and that I need to get out and clean. The light came back on after after 15 mins of driving yesterday. I cleared it again and will see. This is using OBD11. Wonder if VCDS is actually required though!

So took the seat out (partly) today and found the yellow connector under the carpet by the seat rails. Gave it a good clean and put it back. Light was cleared and came back within about 30 secs. So next thing is to take the full seat out and try and find where the cable ends inside the seat itself.

Thank you. And no, very rare to have people in the back and certainly not for a while. I think this is just one of those quirks that once started will not stop. Could be a dodgy igniter of course but will go for the contact cleaning first and see what happens. It is more annoying than anything!

Hi all This is a new one and just curious to see if others have experienced it, or similar, and potential solutions. 2016 VRS, here in Aus. Car was fine then once day showed airbag error on dash. Read codes, and cleared. 144 km later it reappeared. Have now reset it a few times, and it varies as to when it reappears - quickest was about 5km later, others can be 50-150km later. Not always when starting the car either. Reading seems to be that the wires can get frail or stretched a little and thus cause dodgy connections. So, my assumptions and thoughts (for your guidance) are: Error is 'Front passenger rear thorax airbag igniter' - resistance too high. Fault code B10101B I assume this means the seat airbag, passenger side, and the igniter would be under the seat? Seats are electric. Next steps would be to disconnect battery, lift seat up high and see what is underneath. From experience clean the terminals or should I look at getting a replacement igniter? Thanks

Hello team I know the sunroof drain holes blockage has been covered, but this was my finding today that may help others. Here in Melbourne, we're in summer. Yesterday we had a storm come through, not long but torrential rain for a short while. My car, MY16 VRS with panoramic sunroof, when moved, had water sloshing noise from what sounded like passenger side sunroof area. It was the same this morning and very obvious. So I got home, grabbed my trusty curtain wire, and had a look at the sunroof holes (only the front ones) and all seemed fairly dry. I gave both a good cleaning anyway, then started the car and the water sloshing was still there. Damn... Then I decided to do more investigation on the doors, and blimey, this was my finding. I had seen how the front doors, in the rubber seal, have two obvious drain holes. The rear doors do not - they have one (near the rear of the car), but on the passenger side rear door, when I pulled the rubber away, it obviously released what was sitting in the bottom of the door, which must have been fr4om the rain yesterday (as we have had some good high 30 degree days recently and no rain for a while so anything there would have evaporated. The images show just how much water came out once I gently pulled the bottom door seal (close to the hinges) out - it was very dirty as you'd expect but this was totally blocked. I took pics and a video - the pics show just how much water came out of the door and the video, if it works, where it was coming from. A massive surprise and maybe helpful to others. Here's a link to the video that may help more - Andy

Interesting - I have KESSY and activated this comfort entry and it always worked when ignition off but often would either not work when car was restarted or would move 80% of the way but enough to not be the correct position so I have now taken it off.

Thanks - and they are definitely the Pilot Sport 4 and not the Polit Sport 4S?

Thank you

Hi all I'm just curious if anyone is running PS4 (and NOT PS4S) tyres? I have them on the car at the moment and they are fairly worn and also terrible. Lose traction all the time... I have read that they go off in the last 25% and therefore this is certainly what I am experiencing - but I wanted to see if anyone has bought them new and put them on a VRS and can give feedback? I just don't want more of the same. Anyone done this? Thanks

If you have one already it is just a replacement but you will need to pull off the roof lining to gain access to the bolts/nuts that hold it in place. Most of them are pretty easy to replace - the hardest thing is removing the roof lining and then getting it back in situ

I just fitted four LED's (two each side) to mine and they work a treat and no errors BUT no recoding either - just plug and play. This was turning all lights on manually or turning the wheel - they all light up but no errors at all. Maybe some LED's have a decent CANBUS system that does work. And these were bulbs from Aliexpress too... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000831220907.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.72e379e62eTG1f

Yes - very easy, and goes flying. The new one just pops in too

As this was happening on my 2016 here in Australia, I was looking at replacing the entire gear knob but decided to look at just the DSG VRS top part of the gear knob. I ordered it from Skoda Parts, based in the Czech Republic who were great to deal with. The cost of the part as 14.52 Euro and shipping was 22.3 Euro, via Fed Ex. It took 6 days from them sending it to arriving with me so very quick. The part number for anyone who wants it is 5E0 713 146 E. I was a little concerned at how difficult it would be to remove it but I have to say, I was wrong. It took about 30 seconds to replace it. Very easy - I just used a small trim removal tool, pulled in the gear knob button to expose the top (front most) surface of the gear knob 'cap' (this is the part I am replacing), this then just flicked up and off with a little more pressure,. The replacement just hinged from the rear ward side and clipped in place. My old one had two sections where the chrome had come off and sharp (ironically this is exactly what happened on my previous R36 gear knob). So, for the total of 36 Euro, I now have a gear knob that does not scratch and cut my finger and looks far better. For anyone with this issue, and out of warranty, it's very very easy to do... Brand new one is in the bag, the other two show the chipped parts, and the box the part came in.

The online site only looks after maps and in the UK and a couple of other countries, radio stations logos. Firmware is the domain of the dealer and not generally user operated. You can always try the original card assuming you format it as required. If you are not sure, just buy a new card and use that - make sure it's class 10, and a decent capacity.

And can you also push the map button again after the map is on the screen. You will get the split screen menu instead of the full screen map. The default for the split screen is the compass - this can be changed in a drop-down box to GPS info. This screen will tell you how many satellites it and see and whether or not it has a lock and let me know how many you can see and what the numbers are?

ok - so you are running 0430 firmware. Slightly newer version than I was running in a 2016 VRS, which was 0318, but still out of date. My maps (Australia) were 2016 too, and by the looks of yours, they have likely never been updated either as you can see they are 115/16 versions. So best thing would be to upgrade to the most recent and stable version of the firmware which is 1433. Then I'd upgrade the maps. Use the same SD card for both - the order doesn't make a difference but better to do f/w first. Let me know if you need a link or I can upload the f/w for your to download too. Big file - 3.78 gb

Not going to do any harm at all... go to https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ and download the relevant map after inputting your VIN. The other thing - can you look at what the firmware you are running too?

Try taking it for a drive of 15-20 mins. The system looks for satellites but it does not know their position, so will hunt. By driving it keeps them actively looking and after that time you should have luck - if you do not then for some reason the connection to the GPS receiver has been lost or the unit (GPS receiver) is broken so it would then be time to tray a replacement. Do the drive first and see what happens.

Could be a number of reasons but what model system do you have? And you may need to do a reset in order to clear any issues, then give it 15-15 mins to find the satellites again...

Sorry - was a typo - the seats did not help his back problem, probably exacerbated it, so he sold it for a Passat. How tall is tall?

You are correct my man... they had it traded in because the previous owner developed back problems and the seats no longer for him. Good enough reason to sell - for me!

Hi peeps - new owner here. New job so no longer a company car that I had for last four years, so thought this would tide me over. Hard to find but I ended up buying it from Adelaide (a dealer) sight unseen, which was not a good experience as I was so bloody nervous. Anyhow, MY16, fully loaded with everything and really nice condition. Already been in touch wit the first owner and sorted a few things out. He had never taken it to a Skoda dealer so it was still running original firmware (0318) and original maps (2016). Soon changed that! Now running 1433 firmware and 2021 maps. I've also updated the side mirrors to the new indicators and also the lights under them to LED, and just waiting for the LED bulbs (external) and interior LED packs to arrive and I'll do that next. I also ran OBD11 (which I have for my missus MY21 Polo GTI) and it has 55 recorded faults. But because these went back to 2016, it had never been checked. Virtually all were down to a low battery! Now gone and just waiting RWC and then inspection and registration. So it cannot be driven at the moment...